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http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/03/weekinreview/03harris.html?_r=1 & ref=health

April 2, 2011

Colorless Food? We Blanch

By GARDINER

HARRIS

WASHINGTON — Without the artificial coloring FD & C Yellow

No. 6, Cheetos Crunchy Cheese Flavored Snacks would look like

the shriveled larvae of a large insect. Not surprisingly, in

taste tests, people derived little pleasure from eating them.

Their fingers did not turn orange. And their brains did not

register much cheese flavor, even though the Cheetos tasted just

as they did with food coloring.

“People ranked the taste as bland and said that they weren’t

much fun to eat,” said Wansink, a professor at Cornell

University and director of the university’s Food and Brand Lab.

Naked Cheetos would not seem to have much commercial future.

Nor might some brands of pickles. The pickling process turns

them an unappetizing gray. Dye is responsible for their robust

green. Gummi worms without artificial coloring would look, like,

well, muddily translucent worms. Jell-O would emerge out of the

refrigerator a watery tan.

No doubt the world would be a considerably duller place without

artificial food coloring. But might it also be a safer place?

The Center for Science in the Public Interest, an advocacy

group, asked

the government last week to ban artificial coloring

because the dyes that are used in some foods might worsen

hyperactivity in some children.

“These dyes have no purpose whatsoever other than to sell junk

food,” n Nestle, a professor of nutrition, food studies and

public health at New York University.

A government advisory panel concluded

that there was no proof that dyes caused problems in most

children, and that whatever problems they might cause in some

children did not warrant a ban or a warning label beyond what is

already required — a disclosure on the product label that

artificial colors are present.

“Color is such a crucial part of the eating experience that

banning dyes would take much of the pleasure out of life,” said

Kantha Shelke, a food chemist and spokeswoman for the Institute

of Food Technologists. “Would we really want to ban everything

when only a small percentage of us are sensitive?” Indeed, color

often defines flavor in taste tests. When tasteless yellow

coloring is added to vanilla pudding, consumers say it tastes

like banana or lemon pudding. And when mango or lemon flavoring

is added to white pudding, most consumers say that it tastes

like vanilla pudding. Color creates a psychological expectation

for a certain flavor that is often impossible to dislodge, Dr.

Shelke said.

“Color can actually override the other parts of the eating

experience,” she said in an interview.

Even so, some food companies have expanded their

processed-product offerings to include foods without artificial

colorings. You can now buy Kool-Aid

Invisible, for instance, and

Kraft Macaroni and Cheese Organic White Cheddar. Some

grocery chains, including Whole Foods Market and Trader Joe’s,

refuse to sell foods with artificial coloring.

As yet, natural colorings have not proven to be a good

alternative. They are generally not as bright, cheap or stable

as artificial colorings, which can remain vibrant for years.

Natural colorings often fade within days.

Todd , the executive pastry chef for Hello Cupcake in

Washington, said he was dedicated to simple, natural

ingredients. His cakes are made with flour and butter, and his

red icing gets its color from strawberry purée.

But the sprinkles that top many of his creations have colorings

derived from good old petroleum, the source of artificial

colorings. And he has no intention of changing that because the

natural stuff just isn’t as colorful.

“I could live without sprinkles, but why would I want to?” he

asked. “They’re cupcakes. They’re supposed to be fun.”

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http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/03/weekinreview/03harris.html?_r=1 & ref=health

April 2, 2011

Colorless Food? We Blanch

By GARDINER

HARRIS

WASHINGTON — Without the artificial coloring FD & C Yellow

No. 6, Cheetos Crunchy Cheese Flavored Snacks would look like

the shriveled larvae of a large insect. Not surprisingly, in

taste tests, people derived little pleasure from eating them.

Their fingers did not turn orange. And their brains did not

register much cheese flavor, even though the Cheetos tasted just

as they did with food coloring.

“People ranked the taste as bland and said that they weren’t

much fun to eat,” said Wansink, a professor at Cornell

University and director of the university’s Food and Brand Lab.

Naked Cheetos would not seem to have much commercial future.

Nor might some brands of pickles. The pickling process turns

them an unappetizing gray. Dye is responsible for their robust

green. Gummi worms without artificial coloring would look, like,

well, muddily translucent worms. Jell-O would emerge out of the

refrigerator a watery tan.

No doubt the world would be a considerably duller place without

artificial food coloring. But might it also be a safer place?

The Center for Science in the Public Interest, an advocacy

group, asked

the government last week to ban artificial coloring

because the dyes that are used in some foods might worsen

hyperactivity in some children.

“These dyes have no purpose whatsoever other than to sell junk

food,” n Nestle, a professor of nutrition, food studies and

public health at New York University.

A government advisory panel concluded

that there was no proof that dyes caused problems in most

children, and that whatever problems they might cause in some

children did not warrant a ban or a warning label beyond what is

already required — a disclosure on the product label that

artificial colors are present.

“Color is such a crucial part of the eating experience that

banning dyes would take much of the pleasure out of life,” said

Kantha Shelke, a food chemist and spokeswoman for the Institute

of Food Technologists. “Would we really want to ban everything

when only a small percentage of us are sensitive?” Indeed, color

often defines flavor in taste tests. When tasteless yellow

coloring is added to vanilla pudding, consumers say it tastes

like banana or lemon pudding. And when mango or lemon flavoring

is added to white pudding, most consumers say that it tastes

like vanilla pudding. Color creates a psychological expectation

for a certain flavor that is often impossible to dislodge, Dr.

Shelke said.

“Color can actually override the other parts of the eating

experience,” she said in an interview.

Even so, some food companies have expanded their

processed-product offerings to include foods without artificial

colorings. You can now buy Kool-Aid

Invisible, for instance, and

Kraft Macaroni and Cheese Organic White Cheddar. Some

grocery chains, including Whole Foods Market and Trader Joe’s,

refuse to sell foods with artificial coloring.

As yet, natural colorings have not proven to be a good

alternative. They are generally not as bright, cheap or stable

as artificial colorings, which can remain vibrant for years.

Natural colorings often fade within days.

Todd , the executive pastry chef for Hello Cupcake in

Washington, said he was dedicated to simple, natural

ingredients. His cakes are made with flour and butter, and his

red icing gets its color from strawberry purée.

But the sprinkles that top many of his creations have colorings

derived from good old petroleum, the source of artificial

colorings. And he has no intention of changing that because the

natural stuff just isn’t as colorful.

“I could live without sprinkles, but why would I want to?” he

asked. “They’re cupcakes. They’re supposed to be fun.”

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http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/03/weekinreview/03harris.html?_r=1 & ref=health

April 2, 2011

Colorless Food? We Blanch

By GARDINER

HARRIS

WASHINGTON — Without the artificial coloring FD & C Yellow

No. 6, Cheetos Crunchy Cheese Flavored Snacks would look like

the shriveled larvae of a large insect. Not surprisingly, in

taste tests, people derived little pleasure from eating them.

Their fingers did not turn orange. And their brains did not

register much cheese flavor, even though the Cheetos tasted just

as they did with food coloring.

“People ranked the taste as bland and said that they weren’t

much fun to eat,” said Wansink, a professor at Cornell

University and director of the university’s Food and Brand Lab.

Naked Cheetos would not seem to have much commercial future.

Nor might some brands of pickles. The pickling process turns

them an unappetizing gray. Dye is responsible for their robust

green. Gummi worms without artificial coloring would look, like,

well, muddily translucent worms. Jell-O would emerge out of the

refrigerator a watery tan.

No doubt the world would be a considerably duller place without

artificial food coloring. But might it also be a safer place?

The Center for Science in the Public Interest, an advocacy

group, asked

the government last week to ban artificial coloring

because the dyes that are used in some foods might worsen

hyperactivity in some children.

“These dyes have no purpose whatsoever other than to sell junk

food,” n Nestle, a professor of nutrition, food studies and

public health at New York University.

A government advisory panel concluded

that there was no proof that dyes caused problems in most

children, and that whatever problems they might cause in some

children did not warrant a ban or a warning label beyond what is

already required — a disclosure on the product label that

artificial colors are present.

“Color is such a crucial part of the eating experience that

banning dyes would take much of the pleasure out of life,” said

Kantha Shelke, a food chemist and spokeswoman for the Institute

of Food Technologists. “Would we really want to ban everything

when only a small percentage of us are sensitive?” Indeed, color

often defines flavor in taste tests. When tasteless yellow

coloring is added to vanilla pudding, consumers say it tastes

like banana or lemon pudding. And when mango or lemon flavoring

is added to white pudding, most consumers say that it tastes

like vanilla pudding. Color creates a psychological expectation

for a certain flavor that is often impossible to dislodge, Dr.

Shelke said.

“Color can actually override the other parts of the eating

experience,” she said in an interview.

Even so, some food companies have expanded their

processed-product offerings to include foods without artificial

colorings. You can now buy Kool-Aid

Invisible, for instance, and

Kraft Macaroni and Cheese Organic White Cheddar. Some

grocery chains, including Whole Foods Market and Trader Joe’s,

refuse to sell foods with artificial coloring.

As yet, natural colorings have not proven to be a good

alternative. They are generally not as bright, cheap or stable

as artificial colorings, which can remain vibrant for years.

Natural colorings often fade within days.

Todd , the executive pastry chef for Hello Cupcake in

Washington, said he was dedicated to simple, natural

ingredients. His cakes are made with flour and butter, and his

red icing gets its color from strawberry purée.

But the sprinkles that top many of his creations have colorings

derived from good old petroleum, the source of artificial

colorings. And he has no intention of changing that because the

natural stuff just isn’t as colorful.

“I could live without sprinkles, but why would I want to?” he

asked. “They’re cupcakes. They’re supposed to be fun.”

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http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/03/weekinreview/03harris.html?_r=1 & ref=health

April 2, 2011

Colorless Food? We Blanch

By GARDINER

HARRIS

WASHINGTON — Without the artificial coloring FD & C Yellow

No. 6, Cheetos Crunchy Cheese Flavored Snacks would look like

the shriveled larvae of a large insect. Not surprisingly, in

taste tests, people derived little pleasure from eating them.

Their fingers did not turn orange. And their brains did not

register much cheese flavor, even though the Cheetos tasted just

as they did with food coloring.

“People ranked the taste as bland and said that they weren’t

much fun to eat,” said Wansink, a professor at Cornell

University and director of the university’s Food and Brand Lab.

Naked Cheetos would not seem to have much commercial future.

Nor might some brands of pickles. The pickling process turns

them an unappetizing gray. Dye is responsible for their robust

green. Gummi worms without artificial coloring would look, like,

well, muddily translucent worms. Jell-O would emerge out of the

refrigerator a watery tan.

No doubt the world would be a considerably duller place without

artificial food coloring. But might it also be a safer place?

The Center for Science in the Public Interest, an advocacy

group, asked

the government last week to ban artificial coloring

because the dyes that are used in some foods might worsen

hyperactivity in some children.

“These dyes have no purpose whatsoever other than to sell junk

food,” n Nestle, a professor of nutrition, food studies and

public health at New York University.

A government advisory panel concluded

that there was no proof that dyes caused problems in most

children, and that whatever problems they might cause in some

children did not warrant a ban or a warning label beyond what is

already required — a disclosure on the product label that

artificial colors are present.

“Color is such a crucial part of the eating experience that

banning dyes would take much of the pleasure out of life,” said

Kantha Shelke, a food chemist and spokeswoman for the Institute

of Food Technologists. “Would we really want to ban everything

when only a small percentage of us are sensitive?” Indeed, color

often defines flavor in taste tests. When tasteless yellow

coloring is added to vanilla pudding, consumers say it tastes

like banana or lemon pudding. And when mango or lemon flavoring

is added to white pudding, most consumers say that it tastes

like vanilla pudding. Color creates a psychological expectation

for a certain flavor that is often impossible to dislodge, Dr.

Shelke said.

“Color can actually override the other parts of the eating

experience,” she said in an interview.

Even so, some food companies have expanded their

processed-product offerings to include foods without artificial

colorings. You can now buy Kool-Aid

Invisible, for instance, and

Kraft Macaroni and Cheese Organic White Cheddar. Some

grocery chains, including Whole Foods Market and Trader Joe’s,

refuse to sell foods with artificial coloring.

As yet, natural colorings have not proven to be a good

alternative. They are generally not as bright, cheap or stable

as artificial colorings, which can remain vibrant for years.

Natural colorings often fade within days.

Todd , the executive pastry chef for Hello Cupcake in

Washington, said he was dedicated to simple, natural

ingredients. His cakes are made with flour and butter, and his

red icing gets its color from strawberry purée.

But the sprinkles that top many of his creations have colorings

derived from good old petroleum, the source of artificial

colorings. And he has no intention of changing that because the

natural stuff just isn’t as colorful.

“I could live without sprinkles, but why would I want to?” he

asked. “They’re cupcakes. They’re supposed to be fun.”

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