RE: Shielding a small trailer with YShield (or something else?): Best way to go about it?

[Guest guest]

Just a thought on the mu cable. Neuert from emfcenter.com - recommends

MC CABle...it is twisted, it is shielded and he says it works better then MU

cable.

I have two outlets with the MC cable....I can't say its better then Mu, because

I haven't tried the MU, but I can tell you that businesses/commercial buildings

do us the MC cable

as a rule, because it does shield and lower interference especially in the those

businesses that have lots of wiring, and electronic equiptment. Neuert does tele

conferences and I found his info very valuable.

Lizzie

; emfrefugee

From: article.one.mail@...

Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 18:55:27 -0400

Subject: Shielding a small trailer with YShield (or something else?):

Best way to go about it?

Hi everyone,

My girlfriend and I both want to build all-season trailers to live in. We

both have some issues with EMFs, and need clean, protected dwellings to live

in.

The main points to mention first are:

a) We both try to find land in the country to put our dwellings that are as

low EMF *as possible*, but as you know, it can be challenging to find

somewhere with no wireless service or communications towers; but we do our

best. Still, we want a shielded space so it can be put anywhere temporarily

if need be.

We both will eventually want to have independent, offgrid systems for our

trailers, but for now (time is of the essence), her trailer (which'll be

ready before mine) will be powered via an extension cord using power from

one of the circuits on this property.

*Now, the specifics:*

*

*

1. Her living space will be 8 feet wide and 20 feet long.

2. The flat-bed trailer onto which the living space will be placed is 8 feet

wide and 20 feet long (to allow for more living space in the future).

3. The living space will be made of wood. It will have a three glass

windows, about 24 inches by 30, and one steel door with a window in it.

4. She would like to have three AC electrical outlets in it, all along one

of the long walls.

5. The AC electricity would come from an extension cord from another circuit

on the property, about 250 feet away. It would enter a " master plug " on her

trailer and be distributed to the three electrical outlets mentioned above.

The master plug would, ideally, be on the same side of the trailer as the

three plugs to minimize lengths of live wires.

6. For simplicity's sake we thought that the wiring could run along the

where the floor and wall meet (much like a baseboard), then up and into

three different outlets. (Not *inside of the walls*, but along the base one

wall, inside the structure).

7. I proposed that the wire we use for the AC electricity is " MµCord " ,

found at the top of this page: http://www.lessemf.com/wiring.html As you

can see, it provides what looks like considerable reduction of electric and

magnetic fields.

8. I also thought of putting the MµCord in thick metal conduit (like metal

pipe) to further reduce fields (mostly dirty electricity frequencies that

may be riding on the wiring).

7. Most of the " daily use " things in the trailer (the lights, the radio,

etc.) will run directly off a deep cycle battery, direct current. (Solar is

the final goal, but this has to get done before winter, and with the time

needed to research components and the cost of acquiring them, plus filters

for charge controllers, etc., it's just not an immediate option. The

battery will be charged with an AC powered battery charger; I've found that

the basic (not " smart " / " intelligent " ) automotive chargers have a simple

design inside that looks like a linear transformer; their magnetic field is

high, but drops off with distance, and they create a bit of AM radio buzz,

but that drops off fast and doesn't seem to transfer through the battery

into the interior DC wiring.)

8. The fridge and stove can be powered with propane. The fridge we have

here can also run on AC, and is completely silent (no compressor) and has no

measurable magnetic field on AC more than an inch or so away). The fridge,

if using electricity, can simply have an extension cord plugged into the

back of it, outside the trailer.

9. The electricity here could be cleaner (the property owner has a lot of

high-tech junk in his office; the AM radio goes wild in that building).

Right now (in my ordinary trailer that won't serve well in the winter), the

power comes in through an extension cord at the front. That cord runs

through a grounded 80 dollar powerline filter and then through the 500

dollar Audio Power Ultra Filter 1 (got it cheap on eBay) before it gets to

my computer.

However, the Ultra Filter 1 is going back with me for the winter, so I

propose that a breaker switch (or whatever it's called) be installed in my

partner's trailer (since she'll only have three outlets and one circuit), so

she can turn off the AC power when it's not in use, or when she's sleeping.

Also, I think the " master cord " providing power to her three plugs should

be easily accessible to unplug so the dirty frequencies can't be conducted

onto the wiring.

*And now, for the questions:*

1. In light of everything I said, what's the best way to shield this

trailer? I was thinking at least a couple of coats of Yshield paint on the

inside of all the walls and the ceiling (unless she gets a metal roof).

However, I also saw this at LessEMF.com: http://www.lessemf.com/259.pdf

It sounds like an interesting alternative to the YShield paint, also acting

as both an absorber and reflector. However, the fact that it's laminated on

both sides concerns me, since that suggests it couldn't be grounded, unlike

the Yshield, which has a grounding plate that can be attached directly to

the paint. What are your thoughts?

2. My partner wouldn't be using much of concern *inside* the trailer. She

doesn't use or own a cellphone or cordless phones. She would be using a

wired internet connection (run from an office some 300 feet away, using

fiber optic cable), on her (non-wireless) laptop, running on its battery.

Everything else would be running on DC from a battery (lights, radio,

etc.).

She uses her laptop for her job in an office building, which is much higher

exposure than what she'd get here in the trailer, so even using it in this

space would probably be a big improvement.

That being said, I think the biggest concern would be the dirty electricity

on the AC line coming in to her 3-plug circuit. Remember, the wire going to

these three plugs would run most or all of the length of one of the

trailer's long walls.

Although she could unplug the whole system at night, what about during the

day if/when she's using the electricity? Would the combination of a

mid-performance filter at the entry point of the trailer, and the MuCord

wiring *inside* of thick-walled metal conduit likely suffice to keep the

dirt out of the air and prevent it from being conducted onto the shielded

walls?

3. Should the YShield (if that's what we use) be grounded on the wall that

has the electrical cord running along it?

4. There will be no household electrical or water pipes. Therefore, the

YShield would have to be grounded with a ground wire to the earth outside of

the trailer. Should we simply drive a copper rod 3 or 4 feet into the

ground and attach the ground wire to it?

5. Do all the walls and the ceiling, if painted with YShield, have to be

overlapped with conductive tape in the corners?

6. As for windows, I know from experience that the various fabric meshes of

conductive fabric work very well for keeping out wireless RF; however, my

partner actually wants some glass windows and doors to let light in. I

recall *Bill Bruno* mentioning in another message that Low-E glass helps

keep RF out. Can this be confirmed? Are there other suggestions to use on

windows that would keep RF out but let light in and be aesthetically

pleasing?

7. As for the filter in front of the trailer, that filters the incoming AC

electricity, should it be grounded to a separate copper rod than that of the

YShield or chosen shielding material?

(On that note, what, truly, is the best way to ground shielding material,

especially where dirty electricity is concerned; and does having a shielded

building, grounded, pose a hazard for lightning strikes?)

Okay, I think that covers it for now. Lots of questions, I know, but this

is a really important project for us; if you all could help out with the

best way to do it, we'd both appreciate it a lot!

Thanks kindly, and take care.

R.

[Guest guest]

>Just a thought on the mu cable. Neuert from emfcenter.com -

>recommends MC CABle...it is twisted, it is shielded and he says it works

>better then MU cable.

MC Cable is electric field shielded only. Not magnetic shielded.

MuCord reduces both electric AND magnetic emissions.

Emil

; emfrefugee

From: article.one.mail@...

Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 18:55:27 -0400

Subject: Shielding a small trailer with YShield (or something

else?): Best way to go about it?

Hi everyone,

My girlfriend and I both want to build all-season trailers to live in. We

both have some issues with EMFs, and need clean, protected dwellings to live

in.

The main points to mention first are:

a) We both try to find land in the country to put our dwellings that are as

low EMF *as possible*, but as you know, it can be challenging to find

somewhere with no wireless service or communications towers; but we do our

best. Still, we want a shielded space so it can be put anywhere temporarily

if need be.

We both will eventually want to have independent, offgrid systems for our

trailers, but for now (time is of the essence), her trailer (which'll be

ready before mine) will be powered via an extension cord using power from

one of the circuits on this property.

*Now, the specifics:*

*

*

1. Her living space will be 8 feet wide and 20 feet long.

2. The flat-bed trailer onto which the living space will be placed is 8 feet

wide and 20 feet long (to allow for more living space in the future).

3. The living space will be made of wood. It will have a three glass

windows, about 24 inches by 30, and one steel door with a window in it.

4. She would like to have three AC electrical outlets in it, all along one

of the long walls.

5. The AC electricity would come from an extension cord from another circuit

on the property, about 250 feet away. It would enter a " master plug " on her

trailer and be distributed to the three electrical outlets mentioned above.

The master plug would, ideally, be on the same side of the trailer as the

three plugs to minimize lengths of live wires.

6. For simplicity's sake we thought that the wiring could run along the

where the floor and wall meet (much like a baseboard), then up and into

three different outlets. (Not *inside of the walls*, but along the base one

wall, inside the structure).

7. I proposed that the wire we use for the AC electricity is " MµCord " ,

found at the top of this page: http://www.lessemf.com/wiring.html As you

can see, it provides what looks like considerable reduction of electric and

magnetic fields.

8. I also thought of putting the MµCord in thick metal conduit (like metal

pipe) to further reduce fields (mostly dirty electricity frequencies that

may be riding on the wiring).

7. Most of the " daily use " things in the trailer (the lights, the radio,

etc.) will run directly off a deep cycle battery, direct current. (Solar is

the final goal, but this has to get done before winter, and with the time

needed to research components and the cost of acquiring them, plus filters

for charge controllers, etc., it's just not an immediate option. The

battery will be charged with an AC powered battery charger; I've found that

the basic (not " smart " / " intelligent " ) automotive chargers have a simple

design inside that looks like a linear transformer; their magnetic field is

high, but drops off with distance, and they create a bit of AM radio buzz,

but that drops off fast and doesn't seem to transfer through the battery

into the interior DC wiring.)

8. The fridge and stove can be powered with propane. The fridge we have

here can also run on AC, and is completely silent (no compressor) and has no

measurable magnetic field on AC more than an inch or so away). The fridge,

if using electricity, can simply have an extension cord plugged into the

back of it, outside the trailer.

9. The electricity here could be cleaner (the property owner has a lot of

high-tech junk in his office; the AM radio goes wild in that building).

Right now (in my ordinary trailer that won't serve well in the winter), the

power comes in through an extension cord at the front. That cord runs

through a grounded 80 dollar powerline filter and then through the 500

dollar Audio Power Ultra Filter 1 (got it cheap on eBay) before it gets to

my computer.

However, the Ultra Filter 1 is going back with me for the winter, so I

propose that a breaker switch (or whatever it's called) be installed in my

partner's trailer (since she'll only have three outlets and one circuit), so

she can turn off the AC power when it's not in use, or when she's sleeping.

Also, I think the " master cord " providing power to her three plugs should

be easily accessible to unplug so the dirty frequencies can't be conducted

onto the wiring.

*And now, for the questions:*

1. In light of everything I said, what's the best way to shield this

trailer? I was thinking at least a couple of coats of Yshield paint on the

inside of all the walls and the ceiling (unless she gets a metal roof).

However, I also saw this at LessEMF.com: http://www.lessemf.com/259.pdf

It sounds like an interesting alternative to the YShield paint, also acting

as both an absorber and reflector. However, the fact that it's laminated on

both sides concerns me, since that suggests it couldn't be grounded, unlike

the Yshield, which has a grounding plate that can be attached directly to

the paint. What are your thoughts?

2. My partner wouldn't be using much of concern *inside* the trailer. She

doesn't use or own a cellphone or cordless phones. She would be using a

wired internet connection (run from an office some 300 feet away, using

fiber optic cable), on her (non-wireless) laptop, running on its battery.

Everything else would be running on DC from a battery (lights, radio,

etc.).

She uses her laptop for her job in an office building, which is much higher

exposure than what she'd get here in the trailer, so even using it in this

space would probably be a big improvement.

That being said, I think the biggest concern would be the dirty electricity

on the AC line coming in to her 3-plug circuit. Remember, the wire going to

these three plugs would run most or all of the length of one of the

trailer's long walls.

Although she could unplug the whole system at night, what about during the

day if/when she's using the electricity? Would the combination of a

mid-performance filter at the entry point of the trailer, and the MuCord

wiring *inside* of thick-walled metal conduit likely suffice to keep the

dirt out of the air and prevent it from being conducted onto the shielded

walls?

3. Should the YShield (if that's what we use) be grounded on the wall that

has the electrical cord running along it?

4. There will be no household electrical or water pipes. Therefore, the

YShield would have to be grounded with a ground wire to the earth outside of

the trailer. Should we simply drive a copper rod 3 or 4 feet into the

ground and attach the ground wire to it?

5. Do all the walls and the ceiling, if painted with YShield, have to be

overlapped with conductive tape in the corners?

6. As for windows, I know from experience that the various fabric meshes of

conductive fabric work very well for keeping out wireless RF; however, my

partner actually wants some glass windows and doors to let light in. I

recall *Bill Bruno* mentioning in another message that Low-E glass helps

keep RF out. Can this be confirmed? Are there other suggestions to use on

windows that would keep RF out but let light in and be aesthetically

pleasing?

7. As for the filter in front of the trailer, that filters the incoming AC

electricity, should it be grounded to a separate copper rod than that of the

YShield or chosen shielding material?

(On that note, what, truly, is the best way to ground shielding material,

especially where dirty electricity is concerned; and does having a shielded

building, grounded, pose a hazard for lightning strikes?)

Okay, I think that covers it for now. Lots of questions, I know, but this

is a really important project for us; if you all could help out with the

best way to do it, we'd both appreciate it a lot!

Thanks kindly, and take care.

R.

[Guest guest]

Thanks for the thoughts on the cable, both of you.

Does anyone have suggestions regarding the other questions I posted? All

your help is appreciated!

Take care,

R.

On Thu, Sep 8, 2011 at 10:02 AM, Emil at Less EMF Inc

<lessemf@...>wrote:

> **

>

>

> >Just a thought on the mu cable. Neuert from emfcenter.com -

> >recommends MC CABle...it is twisted, it is shielded and he says it works

> >better then MU cable.

>

> MC Cable is electric field shielded only. Not magnetic shielded.

> MuCord reduces both electric AND magnetic emissions.

>

> Emil

>

>

> ; emfrefugee

> From: article.one.mail@...

> Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 18:55:27 -0400

> Subject: Shielding a small trailer with YShield (or something

> else?): Best way to go about it?

>

> Hi everyone,

>

> My girlfriend and I both want to build all-season trailers to live in. We

> both have some issues with EMFs, and need clean, protected dwellings to

> live

> in.

>

> The main points to mention first are:

>

> a) We both try to find land in the country to put our dwellings that are as

> low EMF *as possible*, but as you know, it can be challenging to find

> somewhere with no wireless service or communications towers; but we do our

> best. Still, we want a shielded space so it can be put anywhere temporarily

> if need be.

>

> We both will eventually want to have independent, offgrid systems for

> our

> trailers, but for now (time is of the essence), her trailer (which'll be

> ready before mine) will be powered via an extension cord using power from

> one of the circuits on this property.

>

> *Now, the specifics:*

> *

> *

> 1. Her living space will be 8 feet wide and 20 feet long.

>

> 2. The flat-bed trailer onto which the living space will be placed is 8

> feet

> wide and 20 feet long (to allow for more living space in the future).

>

> 3. The living space will be made of wood. It will have a three glass

> windows, about 24 inches by 30, and one steel door with a window in it.

>

> 4. She would like to have three AC electrical outlets in it, all along one

> of the long walls.

>

> 5. The AC electricity would come from an extension cord from another

> circuit

> on the property, about 250 feet away. It would enter a " master plug " on her

> trailer and be distributed to the three electrical outlets mentioned above.

> The master plug would, ideally, be on the same side of the trailer as the

> three plugs to minimize lengths of live wires.

>

> 6. For simplicity's sake we thought that the wiring could run along the

> where the floor and wall meet (much like a baseboard), then up and into

> three different outlets. (Not *inside of the walls*, but along the base one

> wall, inside the structure).

>

> 7. I proposed that the wire we use for the AC electricity is " MµCord " ,

> found at the top of this page: http://www.lessemf.com/wiring.html As you

> can see, it provides what looks like considerable reduction of electric and

> magnetic fields.

>

> 8. I also thought of putting the MµCord in thick metal conduit (like metal

> pipe) to further reduce fields (mostly dirty electricity frequencies that

> may be riding on the wiring).

>

> 7. Most of the " daily use " things in the trailer (the lights, the radio,

> etc.) will run directly off a deep cycle battery, direct current. (Solar is

> the final goal, but this has to get done before winter, and with the time

> needed to research components and the cost of acquiring them, plus filters

> for charge controllers, etc., it's just not an immediate option. The

> battery will be charged with an AC powered battery charger; I've found that

> the basic (not " smart " / " intelligent " ) automotive chargers have a simple

> design inside that looks like a linear transformer; their magnetic field is

> high, but drops off with distance, and they create a bit of AM radio buzz,

> but that drops off fast and doesn't seem to transfer through the battery

> into the interior DC wiring.)

>

> 8. The fridge and stove can be powered with propane. The fridge we have

> here can also run on AC, and is completely silent (no compressor) and has

> no

> measurable magnetic field on AC more than an inch or so away). The fridge,

> if using electricity, can simply have an extension cord plugged into the

> back of it, outside the trailer.

>

> 9. The electricity here could be cleaner (the property owner has a lot of

> high-tech junk in his office; the AM radio goes wild in that building).

> Right now (in my ordinary trailer that won't serve well in the winter), the

> power comes in through an extension cord at the front. That cord runs

> through a grounded 80 dollar powerline filter and then through the 500

> dollar Audio Power Ultra Filter 1 (got it cheap on eBay) before it gets to

> my computer.

>

> However, the Ultra Filter 1 is going back with me for the winter, so I

> propose that a breaker switch (or whatever it's called) be installed in my

> partner's trailer (since she'll only have three outlets and one circuit),

> so

> she can turn off the AC power when it's not in use, or when she's sleeping.

> Also, I think the " master cord " providing power to her three plugs should

> be easily accessible to unplug so the dirty frequencies can't be conducted

> onto the wiring.

>

> *And now, for the questions:*

>

> 1. In light of everything I said, what's the best way to shield this

> trailer? I was thinking at least a couple of coats of Yshield paint on the

> inside of all the walls and the ceiling (unless she gets a metal roof).

>

> However, I also saw this at LessEMF.com: http://www.lessemf.com/259.pdf

>

> It sounds like an interesting alternative to the YShield paint, also acting

> as both an absorber and reflector. However, the fact that it's laminated on

> both sides concerns me, since that suggests it couldn't be grounded, unlike

> the Yshield, which has a grounding plate that can be attached directly to

> the paint. What are your thoughts?

>

> 2. My partner wouldn't be using much of concern *inside* the trailer. She

> doesn't use or own a cellphone or cordless phones. She would be using a

> wired internet connection (run from an office some 300 feet away, using

> fiber optic cable), on her (non-wireless) laptop, running on its battery.

> Everything else would be running on DC from a battery (lights, radio,

> etc.).

>

> She uses her laptop for her job in an office building, which is much higher

> exposure than what she'd get here in the trailer, so even using it in this

> space would probably be a big improvement.

>

> That being said, I think the biggest concern would be the dirty electricity

> on the AC line coming in to her 3-plug circuit. Remember, the wire going to

> these three plugs would run most or all of the length of one of the

> trailer's long walls.

>

> Although she could unplug the whole system at night, what about during the

> day if/when she's using the electricity? Would the combination of a

> mid-performance filter at the entry point of the trailer, and the MuCord

> wiring *inside* of thick-walled metal conduit likely suffice to keep the

> dirt out of the air and prevent it from being conducted onto the shielded

> walls?

>

> 3. Should the YShield (if that's what we use) be grounded on the wall that

> has the electrical cord running along it?

>

> 4. There will be no household electrical or water pipes. Therefore, the

> YShield would have to be grounded with a ground wire to the earth outside

> of

> the trailer. Should we simply drive a copper rod 3 or 4 feet into the

> ground and attach the ground wire to it?

>

> 5. Do all the walls and the ceiling, if painted with YShield, have to be

> overlapped with conductive tape in the corners?

>

> 6. As for windows, I know from experience that the various fabric meshes of

> conductive fabric work very well for keeping out wireless RF; however, my

> partner actually wants some glass windows and doors to let light in. I

> recall *Bill Bruno* mentioning in another message that Low-E glass helps

> keep RF out. Can this be confirmed? Are there other suggestions to use on

> windows that would keep RF out but let light in and be aesthetically

> pleasing?

>

> 7. As for the filter in front of the trailer, that filters the incoming AC

> electricity, should it be grounded to a separate copper rod than that of

> the

> YShield or chosen shielding material?

>

> (On that note, what, truly, is the best way to ground shielding material,

> especially where dirty electricity is concerned; and does having a shielded

> building, grounded, pose a hazard for lightning strikes?)

>

> Okay, I think that covers it for now. Lots of questions, I know, but this

> is a really important project for us; if you all could help out with the

> best way to do it, we'd both appreciate it a lot!

>

> Thanks kindly, and take care.

>

> R.

>

>