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Colleen, colleen! That was discount for CPOP, I guess im not sure about

CPHP. I had a brain hiccup there!

sorry

Shaye

Re: I DID IT!!!

Thanks for the info Shaye!

I don't know what happened to the first batch. I stirred everything

together so it was blended. When I went back to check on it there was

" soap " on top and a layer of liquid on the bottom of the crock. I kept

stirring that back

together, but it would keep separating out. I finally got sick of it,

turned the crock off, and when it cooled it was how I described before.

Yucky!!! Garbage man got that batch!

Anyone know how to discount the water from a cp recipe to an hp recipe?

Maybe I had too much water in it. Who knows!

CP is on my list to try next, so be prepared for more questions!!! :)

Colleen

Country Meadow Creations

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ok to answer in order

1) You can use any recipe for HP... just make sure you run it through a good

lye calc. The thing is to stick to that lye calc.... I've run my recipes

through many and found this one is the best for HP

Most important thing is to remember how many ounces your crock will hold

and keep that in mind with each new recipe.... you can't just take a recipe

and half it either..... ask me how I know :)

http://www.soapmaking.com/lyecalc.mv

2)Cook time can very depending on the oils... my shampoo bars for example

cook only 15 minutes where castile can take over 2 hours

NOTE ..... careful about discounting the water.... With the size batch your

making if you discount too much you can end up with lye heavy soap even when

the cook is done.... the batch needs the water to carry it through the whole

cook time. Also if you discount the water you are working with a heavier

lye solution. I actually ADD an ounce of water to make the soap easier to

work with for a longer period of time after the cook... so I have time to

add my goodies before it get too stiff to work with

3) I like HP because I don't have the room for curing cold process for weeks.

HP can be used the day it's made, but I let it set for atleast 4 days before

wrapping.... I too like instant results

4) Usually one makes handmilled soaps to add things to the soap that would

be harmed or changed by the lye. If you add herbs, milk powder etc to HP

you do it after the cook so there is no changing your ingredients. This is

another reason I do HP.... no need to worry about things mutating.... unless

it a color I haven't used before and didn't check it out before I use it...

like at the gathering with my black violet soap LOL

Hope some of this helps

Terri

country meadow creations wrote:

I made soap! Well CPHP soap anyway. I am certainly an mp soaper at

heart. Standing there staring at a soap pot drove me crazy. Especially

since the first batch I tried Wednesday had to go in the trash! But

Thursday's batch, I believe, is going to be just fine. And now I've got

questions!!!

1) Does the recipe you use have to be specifically for hot process? Can

you use a cold process recipe? The first batch I made was a cp recipe,

and that came out looking like a nasty, lumpy, clumpy tapioca. The

second batch was an hp recipe, and so far it's just a little soft, but

it keeps getting harder. (Of course I'm sure it'd be fine if I kept my

fingers off from it!!!!)

2) How long is the actual (average, typical) cook time when making cp

soap? I am very impatient and hate to wait, but there are some recipes

I want to try.

3) For those of you that make hp instead of cp, why? Is it because the

cure time is shorter? I'm just curious.

4) Does anyone make hand-milled soaps? What are the benefits of this

process over the others?

That should keep all of you busy answering me for a little while! At

least I hope I will get some answers. :)

Even though my first batch died, and my second took about 2 hours to

cook, I can see where this can be addictive. There's just some strange

rush you get out of putting oils & such into a pot and having it turn

into soap!

Colleen

Country Meadow Creations

Our members map

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Our Message Board

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Check out these great Molds!!

http://soapwerks.com/martinworld.htm

Member Kae's Site... Awesome oil Prices!

http://www.olivetreesoaps.com/

All posts to this list are copyrighted by post author. They may NOT be forwarded,

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I wouldn't discount the water to do HP! If anything, you might need a bit

MORE water, since some is going to evaporate off in the " cooking " process.

I've occasionally added a bit more than the original CP recipe had called

for, but I have never used less!

- Ela

(000)___(000) Ela Heyn

/ @ @ \ ferret@...

| |

======@====== http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/5483

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> I made soap! Well CPHP soap anyway. Standing there staring at a

soap pot drove me crazy. > Even though my first batch died, and my

second took about 2 hours to

> cook, I can see where this can be addictive. There's just some

strange

> rush you get out of putting oils & such into a pot and having it

turn

> into soap!

>

> Colleen

> Country Meadow Creations

Colleen-

Congrats on the cphp! Sounds like a new addiction! I have mostly done

CP and love it, wait and all, but have tried CPHP a couple of times.

I also have some questions some of you more informed ones may help me

with. It is my understanding that to do CPHP you do the same as you

would for CP, only when trace is achieved you transfer to a warmed

crock pot on low (no adding of fo's, eo's, anything). Then cook til

vaseline, no stirring. Keep a watchful eye on this. Question......Top

on or off of the crock pot? (I keep mine on). I hear that this

process " cooks off " excess water, etc, but with the top on I would

think that would not happen. Once it is vaseline like, then add your

fragrance and whatever else. Question......Is the amount of fo/eo

needed any different (less, more) than it would be for cp?

Also.....is the texture of the finished soap any different than that

of cp? Is this still pourable into a mold or do you need to work at

getting air bubbles out? Vaseline makes me think it would be much

easier than the mashed potatoes-like mess I normally get when I have

tried. (more like, given up....). Guess that is it for questions!

Hope to learn this tecnique to speed up the process when I need to.

On the CP when you do it. Do yourself a favor and if you don't have a

stick blender ... get one. It truly does speed up that process as

well. But, word of caution, don't use it at the exclusion of stirring

all ingredients well by hand. I use mine in spurts, and stir real

well in between with my heat resistant spatula thingy, so I can

scrape the sides real well. Uh, oh.....I know I read somewhere that

that is a no-no, but I have done it for every batch I have made!!

A good weekend to all. Outside weekend here. Trying to finish a walk-

way out back. Made 5 batches of soap this week..........what fun I

had!!!

Becky in CT

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Hi Becky,

There is no need for 2 pots when doing CPHP. Turn your crock on and put

in your harder oils to melt right there while it's heating up... when

most are near melted pour in your liquid oils...when everything is

melted mix and pour in your lye solution... give a good stir and close

the cover. I come back every few minutes to stir.When things start to

look like they are mixed you can stir less.Your right.. top on during

the whole process. Don't add any of your goodies until the cook is

complete and there is no lye left (tongue test a small bit on the end of

a knife.... careful it keeps it's heat.... ask how I know :)

You need less FO doing CPHP... for a small batch (3qt crock) I typically

use around TLB plus a little drizzle more.... maybe half a teaspoon. If

the FO is light to begin with start with 1TLB plus a teaspoon or 2. You

use less because the FO isn't killed off by the lye which can happen

with CP soaping. When you've added your FO now is the time to color....

I've colored before and after adding FO and have had great success

coloring after. Reason.... some FO's will discolor the soap so coloring

after the FO you can compensate for the color added by the FO. With the

exception of discoloring vanilla and FO's that have a mix of vanilla.

My spiced apple I colored with red mica before adding the FO the first

time I made it.... When I added the FO my beautiful apple red soap

turned muddy brown. The next batch I made I did the reverse... FO then

color and the soap came out the beautiful red I was looking for the

first time. Mixing this mashed potato glop can be a chore... I use a

plastic whisk, but your stick blender might work.

The finished soap is more like mashed potatoes than vaseline... you have

to sort of glop it in the mold... tap and slam your mold on the counter

top to get the soap to level out and help the air bubbles come to the

top. I also use a pastry knife or pastry blade.... slicer or ummmm you

know the long flat metal thing everyone uses to slice soap(sorry..I need

more coffee :) anyway... I use that across the top of my mold to push

the soap down in the mold even more. Cover the top of the mold with

plastic wrap to keep some of the heat in and soon you will notice it

will go back to a gel stage (this start to happen before you get the

plastic on the top)....You can push down on the soap again and get even

more air out and get a smoother finish on the top of the mold. As the

soap cools you can keep pressing on it to get it more compact and smoother.

CPHP is the only process I use.... I just do not have the room for weeks

of curing soap logs anymore. I don't think I'd ever go back to cold

process either... I'm too into the instant results. Over the winter I

plan on trying my hand at direct heat HP or some form of it so I can

move to bigger batches.

Terri

PS... I've read somewhere too about not scraping the sides.... I do it

all the time. Don't worry.... it's ok :) I've also heard " do not stir "

yeah right..... that's like telling me not breath.... stir and scrape

all you want!

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Terri,

Thank you very much for the CPHP directions! These are great-even I can follow them! Thanks again.

Dee

Re: Re: I DID IT!!!

Hi Becky,There is no need for 2 pots when doing CPHP. Turn your crock on and put in your harder oils to melt right there while it's heating up... when most are near melted pour in your liquid oils...when everything is melted mix and pour in your lye solution... give a good stir and close the cover. I come back every few minutes to stir.When things start to look like they are mixed you can stir less.Your right.. top on during the whole process. Don't add any of your goodies until the cook is complete and there is no lye left (tongue test a small bit on the end of a knife.... careful it keeps it's heat.... ask how I know :)You need less FO doing CPHP... for a small batch (3qt crock) I typically use around TLB plus a little drizzle more.... maybe half a teaspoon. If the FO is light to begin with start with 1TLB plus a teaspoon or 2. You use less because the FO isn't killed off by the lye which can happen with CP soaping. When you've added your FO now is the time to color.... I've colored before and after adding FO and have had great success coloring after. Reason.... some FO's will discolor the soap so coloring after the FO you can compensate for the color added by the FO. With the exception of discoloring vanilla and FO's that have a mix of vanilla. My spiced apple I colored with red mica before adding the FO the first time I made it.... When I added the FO my beautiful apple red soap turned muddy brown. The next batch I made I did the reverse... FO then color and the soap came out the beautiful red I was looking for the first time. Mixing this mashed potato glop can be a chore... I use a plastic whisk, but your stick blender might work.The finished soap is more like mashed potatoes than vaseline... you have to sort of glop it in the mold... tap and slam your mold on the counter top to get the soap to level out and help the air bubbles come to the top. I also use a pastry knife or pastry blade.... slicer or ummmm you know the long flat metal thing everyone uses to slice soap(sorry..I need more coffee :) anyway... I use that across the top of my mold to push the soap down in the mold even more. Cover the top of the mold with plastic wrap to keep some of the heat in and soon you will notice it will go back to a gel stage (this start to happen before you get the plastic on the top)....You can push down on the soap again and get even more air out and get a smoother finish on the top of the mold. As the soap cools you can keep pressing on it to get it more compact and smoother.CPHP is the only process I use.... I just do not have the room for weeks of curing soap logs anymore. I don't think I'd ever go back to cold process either... I'm too into the instant results. Over the winter I plan on trying my hand at direct heat HP or some form of it so I can move to bigger batches.TerriPS... I've read somewhere too about not scraping the sides.... I do it all the time. Don't worry.... it's ok :) I've also heard "do not stir" yeah right..... that's like telling me not breath.... stir and scrape all you want!

Our members maphttp://.homestead.com/locations.htmlOur Message Boardhttp://www.voy.com/21568/Check out these great Molds!!http://soapwerks.com/martinworld.htmMember Kae's Site... Awesome oil Prices!http://www.olivetreesoaps.com/All posts to this list are copyrighted by post author. They may NOT be forwarded, copied, or used in anyway without the permission of the post author with the exception of answering posts to this list. Posts are personal opinions only.

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Terri-

Thanks so much for the informative CPHP instructions. The only times

I have done it I have made a bigger than my crock pot batch, so it

was necessary for me to have two pots going. When the soap traced, I

transferred to my crock pot and then the remaining I fragranced and

allowed it to cure like all my CP. If I ever get that organized I

will convert my favorite recipe to a size that will accomodate my

crock pot. Now, for more questions/brain picking.....Does the soap

mixture grow at all in the crock pot, or more correctly maybe, how

full do you fill your crock pot up to allow for possible expansion

(volcano stuff)? Sounds like you use way less FO/EO which would be

nice since the CP method of .5 oz of fragrance per lb of soap or so

can be somewhat expensive for some batches. Also, is it necessary to

have a full crock pot of soap for CPHP or can you do like half full,

quarter full? Cook on Low? Discount water?

Hope I am not being a pain in the rear with questions! I am one of

those people that needs to " see " something done, much easier than

reading about it and doing it. Your directions were very good, and I

thank you again. I still think I will remain a CPer, but I love to

play, so will fire up the old soap crock pot again, just to say I

tried!

Now, I have to fix a feast and help hubby finish the walkway. I would

rather be soaping....................

Becky in CT

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In a message dated 10/20/01 8:32:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time,

squeakycleansoap@... writes:

<< Question......Top on or off of the crock pot? (I keep mine on). >>

On

Question......Is the amount of fo/eo needed any different (less, more) than

it would be for cp?

If added after the cooked soap cools a bit the amount can be as much as one

half LESS thanCP.

Also.....is the texture of the finished soap any different than that of cp?

It can be very different. It took me quite a few batches to get my HP to

look like my CP. Bringing it back to gel stage and rapping it smartly on the

floor helps agreat deal (gets more air bubbles out.)

Is this still pourable into a mold or do you need to work at getting air

bubbles out?

Mine is not pourable, although almost. Glop, rap on the floor, glop, rap,

glop, rap etc. Bring back to gel, rap again, cool, unmold, slice if

necessary, harded for a few days, wrap and sell.

the mashed potatoes-like mess I normally get

Mashed potatoes means you've cooked too long. Stop when you get to vaseline

and test.

Hope THis Helps,

Lizz

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squeakycleansoap@... wrote: " Top on or off of the crock pot? (I keep mine

on). I hear that this process " cooks off " excess water, etc, but with the top on

I would think that would not happen. "

Sshhh, don't tell anyone, but dh thought it best if the top came off a little

after an hour into the process when it didn't look like it was cooking out. Not

long after that I got the vaseline stage & glopped it into the molds.

Colleen

Country Meadow Creations

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Water reduction is a hot topic on many chat lists and infact forbidden on

most...ask me how I found out :o it is because it is dangerous for new

soapers to try and they didn't want folks fiddling with it. I use around an

8% reduction and somewhere have the info on how to do it.

DEb

>

>

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  • 3 weeks later...

Good for you, Gretchen! That's how you can tell you're making progress!

I did It!!!

Hey I just had to post this!!! I made it 10 minutes on the glider. When I first started I could barely do 5 mins!!

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oooooo!!!! Way to go! I bet that felt good to be able to double your time. You're doing great

Nikkie

-- I did It!!!

Hey I just had to post this!!! I made it 10 minutes on the glider. When I first started I could barely do 5 mins!!

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Yeah baby, yeeeah!!!! (said in her best Mike Meyers voice) :)

J

> Hey I just had to post this!!! I made it 10 minutes on the

glider.

> When I first started I could barely do 5 mins!!

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Gretchen I am SO HAPPY for You That is a Great feeling I am sureClick on the sound below.

-- I did It!!!

Hey I just had to post this!!! I made it 10 minutes on the glider. When I first started I could barely do 5 mins!!

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Thanks!!! that was cool...

Gretchen

> Gretchen I am SO HAPPY for You That is a Great feeling I am

sureClick on

> the sound below.

>

>

>

>

> -- I did It!!!

>

> Hey I just had to post this!!! I made it 10 minutes on the

glider.

> When I first started I could barely do 5 mins!!

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Thanks!!! that was cool...

Gretchen

> Gretchen I am SO HAPPY for You That is a Great feeling I am

sureClick on

> the sound below.

>

>

>

>

> -- I did It!!!

>

> Hey I just had to post this!!! I made it 10 minutes on the

glider.

> When I first started I could barely do 5 mins!!

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  • 10 months later...

WOW! Congrats! 3 inches off your waist??? I can't wait to see your

pictures!

> Well, after 12 long weeks, I made it through the program.

>

> Beginning Stats:

>

> Height: 5'3 1/2 "

> Weight: 127 lbs.

> Body Fat: 22%

> Bust: 33 "

> Hips: 37 "

> Waist: 26 1/2 "

> Thigh: 22 1/2 "

> Calf: 15 "

> Upper Arm: 11 1/2 "

>

> End Stats:

>

> Height: 5'3 1/2 " (I wish THAT one could have gone up... :)

> Weight: 120 lbs.

> Body Fat: 16%

> Bust: 31 "

> Hips: 36 "

> Waist: 23 1/2 "

> Thigh: 21 "

> Calf: 14 1/4 "

> Upper Arm: 10 "

>

> I have the scanned-in " after " pictures, but I still don't have

> electronic copies of the " before " pics. I'm going to hold off on

> posting the " after " pictures until I have digital copies of

> the " before " shots to put up at the same time...

>

> It feels good to be done (for now), and it's even better to know

> that " real " people (translation: me) can get great results from

this

> program! :)

>

> -M

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Congrats you did great. I bet you look awesome

---

In @y..., " moonflower8576 "

<moonflower8576@y...> wrote:

> Well, after 12 long weeks, I made it through the program.

>

> Beginning Stats:

>

> Height: 5'3 1/2 "

> Weight: 127 lbs.

> Body Fat: 22%

> Bust: 33 "

> Hips: 37 "

> Waist: 26 1/2 "

> Thigh: 22 1/2 "

> Calf: 15 "

> Upper Arm: 11 1/2 "

>

> End Stats:

>

> Height: 5'3 1/2 " (I wish THAT one could have gone up... :)

> Weight: 120 lbs.

> Body Fat: 16%

> Bust: 31 "

> Hips: 36 "

> Waist: 23 1/2 "

> Thigh: 21 "

> Calf: 14 1/4 "

> Upper Arm: 10 "

>

> I have the scanned-in " after " pictures, but I still don't have

> electronic copies of the " before " pics. I'm going to hold off on

> posting the " after " pictures until I have digital copies of

> the " before " shots to put up at the same time...

>

> It feels good to be done (for now), and it's even better to know

> that " real " people (translation: me) can get great results from

this

> program! :)

>

> -M

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WOW!!!! Those results are incredible. ESPECIALLY since you were in

good shape to start with. People often find that they get very slow

results once they are in the low twenties BF wise. I cannot wait to

see the pics- get them done soon!!

congrats,

Lynda

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Hi Moonflower - You did great! Thanks for posting your results. It's cool to

see here the inches come off different people. So what are you going to do now?

Continue with another 12 week challenge? Do you want to lose more fat or gain

more muscle? 19% is I think, where I would like to maintain. Can't wait till

10/10 to get my BF checked again!

Look forward to seeing your pictures,

Park

I did it!!!

Well, after 12 long weeks, I made it through the program.

Beginning Stats:

Height: 5'3 1/2 "

Weight: 127 lbs.

Body Fat: 22%

Bust: 33 "

Hips: 37 "

Waist: 26 1/2 "

Thigh: 22 1/2 "

Calf: 15 "

Upper Arm: 11 1/2 "

End Stats:

Height: 5'3 1/2 " (I wish THAT one could have gone up... :)

Weight: 120 lbs.

Body Fat: 16%

Bust: 31 "

Hips: 36 "

Waist: 23 1/2 "

Thigh: 21 "

Calf: 14 1/4 "

Upper Arm: 10 "

I have the scanned-in " after " pictures, but I still don't have

electronic copies of the " before " pics. I'm going to hold off on

posting the " after " pictures until I have digital copies of

the " before " shots to put up at the same time...

It feels good to be done (for now), and it's even better to know

that " real " people (translation: me) can get great results from this

program! :)

-M

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