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does anybody have information on travel trailers & molds?

thanks,

victoria

[] new house insulation

> Have a insulation question on new construction- humid side of VA

> I won't go into all the traumas, both for myself and my builder- at

> this point I wish I had purchased a travel trailer- but my builder is

> now suggesting I use spray in foam insulation as a mold preventative

> in the walls- his thinking- that the foam will adhere to the plywood

> and studs, and will not absorb any humidity. Lets forget the VOC issue

> at the moment - does anyone have any thought on whether this would be

> an acceptable way to reduce mold growth within the structure?

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> FAIR USE NOTICE:

>

>

>

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,

I would like to give you the technical side of this type of insulation.

But, I can't seem to find the info I had on it. Hopefully, someone will

have the full knowledge of it. I can tell you though, that I was asked to

assist with some trial studies on it. (I declined-didn't have the time)

But, I do remember for some reason that this type of insulation will allow

the mold to grow faster if it gets wet. They say that it is treated for

mold growth, but the studies were not there to support the claims. I will

look to see if I still have my IESO notes, there was a builder there that

teaches with IESO, and he would probably be able to help. Let me look and

see. Give awhile though. Maybe someone here knows, if not I'll try to get

the info to you.

[] new house insulation

> Have a insulation question on new construction- humid side of VA

> I won't go into all the traumas, both for myself and my builder- at

> this point I wish I had purchased a travel trailer- but my builder is

> now suggesting I use spray in foam insulation as a mold preventative

> in the walls- his thinking- that the foam will adhere to the plywood

> and studs, and will not absorb any humidity. Lets forget the VOC issue

> at the moment - does anyone have any thought on whether this would be

> an acceptable way to reduce mold growth within the structure?

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> FAIR USE NOTICE:

>

>

>

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,

Something else I remembered being told is that the blown in insulation keeps

the house extremely air tight, more so than regular insulation. I had

looked into having it put in my home, but didn't because I just couldn't

find the info. I wanted. You know having a home to air tight for us is not

good either. I hope someone here is an expert on this type of insulation

and can help. I would be interested in hearing about it.

[] new house insulation

> Have a insulation question on new construction- humid side of VA

> I won't go into all the traumas, both for myself and my builder- at

> this point I wish I had purchased a travel trailer- but my builder is

> now suggesting I use spray in foam insulation as a mold preventative

> in the walls- his thinking- that the foam will adhere to the plywood

> and studs, and will not absorb any humidity. Lets forget the VOC issue

> at the moment - does anyone have any thought on whether this would be

> an acceptable way to reduce mold growth within the structure?

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> FAIR USE NOTICE:

>

>

>

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>>>>You know having a home to air tight for us is not good either.<<<<

Hi ,

Having a tight home is no problem at all since every home should have

an air exchanger installed which makes it completely a non-issue.

Some air exhangers come with their own HEPA filter.

Even not so tight homes should have air exchangers to keep the cold

air from condensing where it leaks in. Air exchangers drain their

moisture. The air exchangers are suppose to pressurize your home

which in effect seals out a non-tight house.

Plus fresh incoming air and outgoing stale air also removes/dilutes

VOCs, carbon dioxide, etc.

Fletch

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I,am a Sheetrock and painting contractor in Pensacola fl. 1 year after hurricane

IVAN and Dennis we are still 2 years booked removing and replacing molded rock

and insulation. Some of the worst devastation has been the never ending supply

of " MOLD REDEMPTION " companies, scam artists, jack legs, fear mongers and down

right thieves that blew into town after the storms. With every claim, magic

potion and snake oil you can imagine. Some charging $20,000.00 to spray a house

with what turned out to be $3 worth of bleach. Here mold grows on every thing,

sidewalks , roofs etc. I happen to have replaced ceilings in houses that used

the soy-bean based spray in Insulation you are asking about. And recently saw

the process. (the claim) is the installation process involves heating the three

part liquid (thus by proxie " killing " any bacteria) and expands 100x to form an

air tight soy-Polly skin. The claim " mold won`t grow on plastic " The bad news

is here in Florida mold grows on plastic, glass

and even in the lungs of some of my customers. For what it is worth here is the

product link. http://www.biobased.net/ beening on this board for 3 years and

developing a water management system and working every day in homes and condo`s

that are literally black with mold. I can tell you what I tell my costumers ;

mold needs three things Food, water and temperature. Mold spores are everywhere.

They are already in the Sheetrock. Ad water and mold blooms, feeding on the

gypsum. The key is the water, the less time building materials are wet the

smaller the mold impact. Fiber glass and cellulose insulation hold water

allowing the spore`s Germinate into an out break. Filling the inner wall

cavity`s with a water tight foam and maybe applying and anti-microbial (tem-loc)

should greatly reduce the chance of mold forming behind walls. Water tight walls

open up air flow and interior moisture issuse`s.

Good Luck

TOM

<blackmold@...> wrote:

,

Something else I remembered being told is that the blown in insulation keeps

the house extremely air tight, more so than regular insulation. I had

looked into having it put in my home, but didn't because I just couldn't

find the info. I wanted. You know having a home to air tight for us is not

good either. I hope someone here is an expert on this type of insulation

and can help. I would be interested in hearing about it.

[] new house insulation

> Have a insulation question on new construction- humid side of VA

> I won't go into all the traumas, both for myself and my builder- at

> this point I wish I had purchased a travel trailer- but my builder is

> now suggesting I use spray in foam insulation as a mold preventative

> in the walls- his thinking- that the foam will adhere to the plywood

> and studs, and will not absorb any humidity. Lets forget the VOC issue

> at the moment - does anyone have any thought on whether this would be

> an acceptable way to reduce mold growth within the structure?

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> FAIR USE NOTICE:

>

>

>

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Tom,

Thank you for the info.

You say:

<Water tight walls open up air flow and interior moisture issuse`s.

Could you please elaborate on this for me. What exactly do you mean?

[] new house insulation

> Have a insulation question on new construction- humid side of VA

> I won't go into all the traumas, both for myself and my builder- at

> this point I wish I had purchased a travel trailer- but my builder is

> now suggesting I use spray in foam insulation as a mold preventative

> in the walls- his thinking- that the foam will adhere to the plywood

> and studs, and will not absorb any humidity. Lets forget the VOC issue

> at the moment - does anyone have any thought on whether this would be

> an acceptable way to reduce mold growth within the structure?

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> FAIR USE NOTICE:

>

>

>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

,

There should be no problem installing foam insulation. By Code, you must

install insulation, and foam is a much better choice, albeit more expensive,

than fiberglass.The foam makes the wall more airtight and if there is ever a

mold problem, air flows are restricted.

You do have to be careful that the type of insulation does not off-gas.

Corbond (closed-cell urethane) and Icynene (open-celled urethane) are both

foamed-in-place and in my experience, stop off-gassing after a few days.

WALLTITE Resin (manufactured by BASF) is another closed-cell foam has a foul

ammonia smell (from dimethylaminoethanol) that can linger long after

installation, so I would avoid this brand.

Choose an open cell foam.

Keep in mind that the most important details to keep water out of walls are

adequate roof overhang (the more the merrier) and proper flashing details at

windows and doors (especially the gable ends where there is no overhang to

protect the siding).

At most new construction, the window cap flashings are bent improperly

upwards, channeling all water that flows down siding to the weak point of the

window: the corner and casing joints. (I have investigated rotted walls at

about 50 homes where the decay was attributable to incorrectly installed window

and door flashings.)

Make certain that all water is shed directly off the window and door

flashings. Test this during construction, after the siding and windows are on,

with water from a squirt bottle. The water should drop immediately off the

window trim or flashing; if it travels to the sides and down the edges or

disappears behind the window trim (worst case) you have a problem.

If you have a deck, you must have a gutter over the deck to avoid splash

that inevitably leads to decay.

Good luck

C. May

May Indoor Air Investigations LLC

Cambridge, MA (where it's a lot colder and drier.)

>Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 15:08:56 -0000

>From: " carondeen " <kdeanstudios@...>

>Subject: new house insulation

>Have a insulation question on new construction- humid side of VA

>I won't go into all the traumas, both for myself and my builder- at

>this point I wish I had purchased a travel trailer- but my builder is

>now suggesting I use spray in foam insulation as a mold preventative

>in the walls- his thinking- that the foam will adhere to the plywood

>and studs, and will not absorb any humidity. Lets forget the VOC issue

>at the moment - does anyone have any thought on whether this would be

>an acceptable way to reduce mold growth within the structure?

>

--

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Jeff@...

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