additives

February 15, 2001

Teri and I were just discussing the addition of caster for more bubbles. I

usually don't add anything else as I am worried about DOS. I have seen this

discussed sooo many times on other lists and they all said to definitely

deduct the caster amt. (I use 2 oz for my 5 lb batch) from total oils but

they all said to add at light trace but Teri talked to Dr. Bob and he said

to put it in with all of the other oils when mixing initially. I have a

question too...I do a 3-oil CP and have just began trying colorants as I was

always just natural in the use of herbs and infusions for color.I got some

ultramarines and oxides from the pigment lady and have been using about a

tab. of olive oil to mix my powders and then add it to about 2 cups of

thinly traced soap to swirl. I am still getting some undisolved powder bits

in my soap. any help?I was struck down hard last year when I asked about

deducting the FO amount from my total oils too as I found that sometimes my

soap gets oily on top when I use the rec. 5% FO which comes out to around 4

oz FO. I also wondered what the consensus is on that?

Deb

February 15, 2001

Yep for the castor to work as a lather builder you have saponify it with your

other oils. If your doing CP I wouldn't think you'd want to use castor as a

super fat oil (after trace) Its very heavy (thick....or as my mechanic hubby

would call it, viscosity) I think you'd wind up with it trying to seperate out.

I don't make any soap with the exception of all olive oil now that doean't

contain saponified castor...that lather I get is wild.

(Deb you could probably add more...I use 3oz in my 23 oz batches) Darn.....wish

I could find now where I got the ratio for it....that might have been in one of

the books I got from the library

This is my opinion about superfatting after trace......when I was doing CP every

batch I made this way turned rancid on me quick. I only do HP now, but I

superfat before trace by taking a reduction on the lye. I haven't had a problem

since I started superfatting this way. Others may have good results, but I

didn't....each person could have their own tricks to making things work.

Superfating my HP would be done before the cook....otherwise there would be no

sense is adding it at all.... after the cook the soap would be sooo gross with

oil I couldn't do a thing with it.

Also by superfatting with a reduction of the lye you are keeping more than just

one oil as a superfat oil. All of your oils play a part in the left over

oils......to me this makes more sence then adding just one spicific oil. You get

more benifits from the combination of the oils. Plus you have a better chance

these oils aren't going to hold back lather.

Hope this makes sence

Terri

February 16, 2001

Hi Deb!

Are your pigments water soluable? Some are and some aren't.

Anyway, after mixing them in your water or oil, you can use

an old piece of nylon to filter out any little bits of

pigment that didn't dissolve.

As far as FO's go, I was taught to go with .7 oz. per pound

of oils. Since then, I have heard some say this is too high.

I have very sensitive skin (red hair traits, although I am not

a redhead) and I have never broken out from this usage. Having

said this, however, I usually adjust by " smell " . Seems like some

scents are just WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY strong!!!

Kae

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Olive Tree Soaps

Web Site: http://olivetreesoaps.com

Email: kae@...

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Re: Additives