Guest guest Posted June 21, 2000 Report Share Posted June 21, 2000 I love that olive oil soap from Dr. . It is a simple recipe to make it is it not. Cannot one make it themselves at home? Is that particular recipe available? Best soap I ever used. Cannot think of going back to the commercial brands. Great for the hair also. cheers, Philip mratchford@... wrote: > In January 2000, I switched to borax-type soap for my clothes, and olive > oil soap for my skin (from Dr. 's site). > > My clothes still look and smell clean, but now I do feel better wearing > them! > > As for my skin, I didn't notice any real difference until my bar ran out > 2 months ago. Since then my underarms have stung, and occasional itching > in the calfs has occurred since returning to use of commercially > available soaps. > > Because of this, I will now go back to using Dr. 's soap, and will > also start giving away bars to friends and relatives... . > > Its the simple things, that make life simple > ---Marvin Ratchford > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > SALESFORCE.COM MAKES SOFTWARE OBSOLETE > Secure, online sales force automation with 5 users FREE for 1 year! > 1/2658/1/_/455736/_/961592517/ > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 21, 2000 Report Share Posted June 21, 2000 > > > In January 2000, I switched to borax-type soap for my clothes, and olive > > oil soap for my skin (from Dr. 's site). > > > > My clothes still look and smell clean, but now I do feel better wearing > > them! > > > > As for my skin, I didn't notice any real difference until my bar ran out > > 2 months ago. Since then my underarms have stung, and occasional itching > > in the calfs has occurred since returning to use of commercially > > available soaps. > > > > Because of this, I will now go back to using Dr. 's soap, and will > > also start giving away bars to friends and relatives... . > > > > Its the simple things, that make life simple > > ---Marvin Ratchford > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- -- > > SALESFORCE.COM MAKES SOFTWARE OBSOLETE > > Secure, online sales force automation with 5 users FREE for 1 year! > > 1/2658/1/_/455736/_/961592517/ > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- -- > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 22, 2000 Report Share Posted June 22, 2000 Sounds like a disaster waiting to happen, to me!!! Please rethink.. Chuck Speak softly and wear a LOUD shirt ! On Wed, 21 Jun 2000 14:01:47 -0000, Regehr@... wrote: > I am thinking of just mixing lye and water and >storing it in a glass container, then adding it in small amounts to >anything I want to use to wash something. >Leo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 22, 2000 Report Share Posted June 22, 2000 Re: Re: soap May offer the following: I work with Chemicals everyday and know that a solution of Sodium Hydroxide (lye water) is capable of easily denaturing proteins----a little bit of concentrated hydroxide (lye water) splashed into the eyes or transferred from hand to eye can turn your eye into cooked egg! Wear eye protection if you work with it and wash your hands afterwards. _______________________________ Sounds like a disaster waiting to happen, to me!!! .. I would be very careful with working with it. Please rethink.. Chuck Speak softly and wear a LOUD shirt ! On Wed, 21 Jun 2000 14:01:47 -0000, Regehr@... wrote: > I am thinking of just mixing lye and water and >storing it in a glass container, then adding it in small amounts to >anything I want to use to wash something. >Leo. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ SALESFORCE.COM MAKES SOFTWARE OBSOLETE Secure, online sales force automation with 5 users FREE for 1 year! 1/2658/1/_/455736/_/961641745/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 22, 2000 Report Share Posted June 22, 2000 wrote: >I work with Chemicals everyday and > know that a solution of Sodium > Hydroxide (lye water) is capable of > easily denaturing proteins Neat! Please explain why using olive oil soap, or any soap containing lye, is 'safer' than lye mixed with water... . Thanks. Its the simple things, that make life simple ---Marvin Ratchford Re: Re: soap May offer the following: I work with Chemicals everyday and know that a solution of Sodium Hydroxide (lye water) is capable of easily denaturing proteins----a little bit of concentrated hydroxide (lye water) splashed into the eyes or transferred from hand to eye can turn your eye into cooked egg! Wear eye protection if you work with it and wash your hands afterwards. _______________________________ Sounds like a disaster waiting to happen, to me!!! .. I would be very careful with working with it. Please rethink.. Chuck Speak softly and wear a LOUD shirt ! On Wed, 21 Jun 2000 14:01:47 -0000, Regehr@... wrote: > I am thinking of just mixing lye and water and >storing it in a glass container, then adding it in small amounts to >anything I want to use to wash something. >Leo. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ SALESFORCE.COM MAKES SOFTWARE OBSOLETE Secure, online sales force automation with 5 users FREE for 1 year! 1/2658/1/_/455736/_/961641745/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 22, 2000 Report Share Posted June 22, 2000 RE: Re: soap Marvin, Lye water or a solution of sodium hydroxide is not " soap " . A " soap " in chemical terms is the result alkaline (sodium hydroxide/lye water) hydrolysis (i.e., " saponification " ) of glyceryl trialkanoates (oil/fats) which produces glycerol and a mixture of salts of long-chain carboxylic acids. THESE SALTS of long chain carboxylic acids are called SOAPS, and this saponification reaction is the way most soaps are manufactured. Fats and/oils are boiled in an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide (lye water) until the hydrolysis (saponification) is complete. Adding sodium chloride (table salt) cause the " soap " to precipitate. Crude soaps are usually purified by several re-precipitations. In many soaps exotic oils/fats and perfumes are added to produce a more pleasing product. Sand, grit, sodium carbonate, and other fillers can be added to make a scouring soap, and air can blown into the molten soap to produce a soap that floats. (page 828-830 Fundamentals of Organic Chemistry, T.W. Graham s, Wilely & Son, New York, 1986) So now to answer your question. The sodium hydroxide (lye) is used as the agent to hydrolyze the oil/fats to produce the long-chain alkaline carboxylic acids we call " soap " . In the old days when people made their own soap they simply used any available fat or oils or tallow, usually animal fats, mixing it will lye water and adding salt to produce a crude, harsh type of soap. Sodium Hydroxide (Lye water) by itself is a dangerous and caustic chemical. When reacted with oils or fats, it no longer sodium hydroxide but now a part of the product we call " soap " . Got it? Hope that helps. ____________________________ wrote: >I work with Chemicals everyday and > know that a solution of Sodium > Hydroxide (lye water) is capable of > easily denaturing proteins Neat! Please explain why using olive oil soap, or any soap containing lye, is 'safer' than lye mixed with water... . Thanks. Its the simple things, that make life simple ---Marvin Ratchford ------------------------------------------------------------------------ SALESFORCE.COM MAKES SOFTWARE OBSOLETE Secure, online sales force automation with 5 users FREE for 1 year! 1/2658/1/_/455736/_/961679496/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 23, 2000 Report Share Posted June 23, 2000 Thank you for that, . I will rethink. Leo. --------------------------------------------------------------- > > > I am thinking of just mixing lye and water and > >storing it in a glass container, then adding it in small amounts to > >anything I want to use to wash something. > >Leo. > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- -- > SALESFORCE.COM MAKES SOFTWARE OBSOLETE > Secure, online sales force automation with 5 users FREE for 1 year! > 1/2658/1/_/455736/_/961641745/ > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- -- > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 23, 2000 Report Share Posted June 23, 2000 Re: soap Leo, Did want to frighten anyone. In dilute concentration lye is certainly manageable. But when you mentioned lye water, I recalled that my grandmother lost her first child to caustic nature of the chemical. In those days, I am told, lye water was a commonly used chemical to wash floors. Well, apparently, she left the bucket of lye water unattended and unfortunately the young child drank some of it and died right in her arms. I sure it had to be fairly concentrated in order to do so much internal damaged. But like I said, lye water easily denatures proteins, protein structures. _________________________________ Thank you for that, . I will rethink. Leo. --------------------------------------------------------------- > > > I am thinking of just mixing lye and water and > >storing it in a glass container, then adding it in small amounts to > >anything I want to use to wash something. > >Leo. > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- -- > SALESFORCE.COM MAKES SOFTWARE OBSOLETE > Secure, online sales force automation with 5 users FREE for 1 year! > 1/2658/1/_/455736/_/961641745/ > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- -- > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 23, 2000 Report Share Posted June 23, 2000 Thanks, now I can use soap with a clear (informed) conscience. I had some reservations in the past of the lye nature of soap, but now you've washed away my fears of the chemical ;-) Its the simple things, that make life simple ---Marvin Ratchford RE: Re: soap Marvin, Lye water or a solution of sodium hydroxide is not " soap " . A " soap " in chemical terms is the result alkaline (sodium hydroxide/lye water) hydrolysis (i.e., " saponification " ) of glyceryl trialkanoates (oil/fats) which produces glycerol and a mixture of salts of long-chain carboxylic acids. THESE SALTS of long chain carboxylic acids are called SOAPS, and this saponification reaction is the way most soaps are manufactured. Fats and/oils are boiled in an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide (lye water) until the hydrolysis (saponification) is complete. Adding sodium chloride (table salt) cause the " soap " to precipitate. Crude soaps are usually purified by several re-precipitations. In many soaps exotic oils/fats and perfumes are added to produce a more pleasing product. Sand, grit, sodium carbonate, and other fillers can be added to make a scouring soap, and air can blown into the molten soap to produce a soap that floats. (page 828-830 Fundamentals of Organic Chemistry, T.W. Graham s, Wilely & Son, New York, 1986) So now to answer your question. The sodium hydroxide (lye) is used as the agent to hydrolyze the oil/fats to produce the long-chain alkaline carboxylic acids we call " soap " . In the old days when people made their own soap they simply used any available fat or oils or tallow, usually animal fats, mixing it will lye water and adding salt to produce a crude, harsh type of soap. Sodium Hydroxide (Lye water) by itself is a dangerous and caustic chemical. When reacted with oils or fats, it no longer sodium hydroxide but now a part of the product we call " soap " . Got it? Hope that helps. ____________________________ wrote: >I work with Chemicals everyday and > know that a solution of Sodium > Hydroxide (lye water) is capable of > easily denaturing proteins Neat! Please explain why using olive oil soap, or any soap containing lye, is 'safer' than lye mixed with water... . Thanks. Its the simple things, that make life simple ---Marvin Ratchford ------------------------------------------------------------------------ SALESFORCE.COM MAKES SOFTWARE OBSOLETE Secure, online sales force automation with 5 users FREE for 1 year! 1/2658/1/_/455736/_/961679496/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 23, 2000 Report Share Posted June 23, 2000 Just a question and a comment here about the life of lyewater. Doesn't lye once its mixed with water neutralize itself after a time? Or is it lye water splashes that have dried up become neutralized after a time just by exposure to the air? For random splashes on skin vinegar is the best antidote. I hear it recommended that if active lyewater is accidentally swallowed or splashed into the eyes its best to rinse well with plain water and seek professional help if swallowed rather than induce vomiting. Neema Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 23, 2000 Report Share Posted June 23, 2000 Re: Re: soap Neema, Lye water is chemically a solution of sodium hydroxide which is alkaline with respect to " pH " . In order to " neutralized " an alkaline solution an " acid " is added, the amount and strength of the acid used to neutralize lye water depends upon the concentration the alkaline solution. Since " lye water " is of unknown strength or concentration, but I assume is fairly dilute for most common house-hold uses (though this is an assumption on my part), a weak acid like vinegar may go some way toward neutralizing it. Water, normally being close to neutral with respect to " pH " will not do much too neutralize the lye, but does wash and or dilute the lye so as to lessen its concentration in the affected area of the spill or splash, thus reducing its caustic effect upon the tissues of the body. If lye water is evaporated, lye or sodium hydroxide residue remains and readily soluble in water if again wetted. So it is necessary to wash or dilute any excess. ________________________ Just a question and a comment here about the life of lyewater. Doesn't lye once its mixed with water neutralize itself after a time? Or is it lye water splashes that have dried up become neutralized after a time just by exposure to the air? For random splashes on skin vinegar is the best antidote. I hear it recommended that if active lyewater is accidentally swallowed or splashed into the eyes its best to rinse well with plain water and seek professional help if swallowed rather than induce vomiting. Neema ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Rate your local doctor or dentist for a chance to win $5,000! Click here NOW to register to win. 1/5598/1/_/455736/_/961749366/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 23, 2000 Report Share Posted June 23, 2000 RE: Re: soap The question was asked sometime ago about the nature of some of the " stones " people see after doing a liver cleanse? May offer the following, tangentially related to what I mention in my previous email concerning " soap " and " saponification " of oils an fats: The central elements of the liver cleanse are olive oil and Epsom salts, which are alkaline salts, mainly in the form of magnesium mineral salts. When oil or fats are ingested the body response to the oil/fat " event " is to stimulate the liver/gall bladder to inject " bile salts " into the upper GI tract. The " bile salts " are then mixed with the oil/fat in the GI tract in order to aid in digestion/absorption of the oil/fats. Since the bile contains some alkaline salts it is possible that some " saponification " of the olive oil in excess takes place. This excess may then be excreted in the form of partially " soapified " greenish balls of olive oil and bile salts, as the bile is greenish in color. Because of large ingestion of olive oil, the body response to the oil/fat " event " is also large and stimulates the liver to produce and deliver more bile in excess, thus also purging the liver and bile duct of any " stones " that may present. As I understand the process, real gall stones are hard concretions of bile salts and do not float. Thus it may be that many of the artifacts that people see " floating " in the toilet after doing the liver cleanse are partially " soapified " artifacts of olive oil and bile salts. I may also add the use of Epsom " salts " added ostensibly to the liver cleanse protocol in order to stimulate bowel movements may contribute to this " soapification " phenomenon, but I have not read of any mention of such in the literature. But it is something to consider. But is far I understand, it is the large ingestion of oil, in this case, olive oil, which stimulates beyond the " norm " the liver/bladder to produce an excess a volume of bile, the pressure of which contributes to the purging/cleansing effect of the liver/gall bladder systems. Anybody have any thought about this? ______________________________________________ Thanks, now I can use soap with a clear (informed) conscience. I had some reservations in the past of the lye nature of soap, but now you've washed away my fears of the chemical ;-) Its the simple things, that make life simple ---Marvin Ratchford ------------------------------------------------------------------------ GIVE YOUR WIFE A BREAK! Lowest prices on maids, lawn care, carpet cleaning, painting and remodeling services in your area at our new FREE website. 1/5744/1/_/455736/_/961733416/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 2, 2001 Report Share Posted December 2, 2001 , I'm on my sixth attempt to make soap per Dr. 's recipe. The first five batches were botched and had to be thrown out. The sixth is still curing; I'm hoping it will finally be non-hand-burning soap. What I've discovered is that her recipe calls for twice as much lye as is necessary, according to a soapmaking group's website at http://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc.html (sorry, I don't know how to insert that as a hyperlink), which will let you enter the ounces of fat you're using and will calculate the number of ounces of lye and water you need to add, depending on the saponification values of the type of fat(s). You may have excess lye water that can't mix with the oil/fat and that's what you think you need to drain. Secondly, you need to weigh the lye and oil on a scale. You can't use fluid measurements (like in a Pyrex measuring cup) for anything but the water. Thirdly, the temperature of the ingredients is important. You want the lye to cool down enough, but not too much. I've been cooling it to 110 degrees. The oil/fats need to be heated, somewhere between 100 and 125 degrees, according to Kathy , who looks like a soap-making expert; her website is http://www.users.silverlink.net/~timer/soapproc.html. That's all I've learned so far. Please let me know if you have any tips. On Sun, 02 December 2001, " " wrote: > > I hope someone can help me. I am in the middel of making the homemade soap. > I am stirring everything up I have a good consistency but there is excess > water that won't absorb. > > Is this ok ? Should Idrain it? > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 2, 2001 Report Share Posted December 2, 2001 Thanks a lot , Could you please tell me what measurements you are using and the brand of lye? Also, let me know if it works out. I'm pretty sure mine is going in the garbage. Re: soap > , > > I'm on my sixth attempt to make soap per Dr. 's recipe. The first five batches were botched and had to be thrown out. The sixth is still curing; I'm hoping it will finally be non-hand-burning soap. > > What I've discovered is that her recipe calls for twice as much lye as is necessary, according to a soapmaking group's website at http://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc.html (sorry, I don't know how to insert that as a hyperlink), which will let you enter the ounces of fat you're using and will calculate the number of ounces of lye and water you need to add, depending on the saponification values of the type of fat(s). You may have excess lye water that can't mix with the oil/fat and that's what you think you need to drain. > > Secondly, you need to weigh the lye and oil on a scale. You can't use fluid measurements (like in a Pyrex measuring cup) for anything but the water. > > Thirdly, the temperature of the ingredients is important. You want the lye to cool down enough, but not too much. I've been cooling it to 110 degrees. The oil/fats need to be heated, somewhere between 100 and 125 degrees, according to Kathy , who looks like a soap-making expert; her website is > http://www.users.silverlink.net/~timer/soapproc.html. > > That's all I've learned so far. Please let me know if you have any tips. > > > > > > On Sun, 02 December 2001, " " wrote: > > > > > I hope someone can help me. I am in the middel of making the homemade soap. > > I am stirring everything up I have a good consistency but there is excess > > water that won't absorb. > > > > Is this ok ? Should Idrain it? > > > > > > > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 2, 2001 Report Share Posted December 2, 2001 , On this last batch, I used 6 weighed oz. of lye, 18 fluid oz. of water, and 48 weighed oz. of olive oil. I used Red Devil lye that you can buy at a grocery store or hardware store. All five of my previous batches went in the garbage, too. A lot of money and time wasted, isn't it? On Sun, 02 December 2001, " " wrote: > > Thanks a lot , > Could you please tell me what measurements you are using and the brand of > lye? > > Also, let me know if it works out. I'm pretty sure mine is going in the > garbage. > > Re: soap > > > > , > > > > I'm on my sixth attempt to make soap per Dr. 's recipe. The first > five batches were botched and had to be thrown out. The sixth is still > curing; I'm hoping it will finally be non-hand-burning soap. > > > > What I've discovered is that her recipe calls for twice as much lye as is > necessary, according to a soapmaking group's website at > http://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc.html (sorry, I don't know how to insert > that as a hyperlink), which will let you enter the ounces of fat you're > using and will calculate the number of ounces of lye and water you need to > add, depending on the saponification values of the type of fat(s). You may > have excess lye water that can't mix with the oil/fat and that's what you > think you need to drain. > > > > Secondly, you need to weigh the lye and oil on a scale. You can't use > fluid measurements (like in a Pyrex measuring cup) for anything but the > water. > > > > Thirdly, the temperature of the ingredients is important. You want the > lye to cool down enough, but not too much. I've been cooling it to 110 > degrees. The oil/fats need to be heated, somewhere between 100 and 125 > degrees, according to Kathy , who looks like a soap-making expert; her > website is > > http://www.users.silverlink.net/~timer/soapproc.html. > > > > That's all I've learned so far. Please let me know if you have any tips. > > > > > > > > > > > > On Sun, 02 December 2001, " " wrote: > > > > > > > > I hope someone can help me. I am in the middel of making the homemade > soap. > > > I am stirring everything up I have a good consistency but there is > excess > > > water that won't absorb. > > > > > > Is this ok ? Should Idrain it? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 2, 2001 Report Share Posted December 2, 2001 , thanks , I'll save this and wait and see how yours turns out. Did you email her organization and tell them the recipe does not work? Please let me know how it turns out. What other suggestions of hers have you implemented? I am using the borax shampoo and citric acid rinse and quite like it. I am also using borax for my laundry. Re: soap > > > > > > > , > > > > > > I'm on my sixth attempt to make soap per Dr. 's recipe. The first > > five batches were botched and had to be thrown out. The sixth is still > > curing; I'm hoping it will finally be non-hand-burning soap. > > > > > > What I've discovered is that her recipe calls for twice as much lye as is > > necessary, according to a soapmaking group's website at > > http://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc.html (sorry, I don't know how to insert > > that as a hyperlink), which will let you enter the ounces of fat you're > > using and will calculate the number of ounces of lye and water you need to > > add, depending on the saponification values of the type of fat(s). You may > > have excess lye water that can't mix with the oil/fat and that's what you > > think you need to drain. > > > > > > Secondly, you need to weigh the lye and oil on a scale. You can't use > > fluid measurements (like in a Pyrex measuring cup) for anything but the > > water. > > > > > > Thirdly, the temperature of the ingredients is important. You want the > > lye to cool down enough, but not too much. I've been cooling it to 110 > > degrees. The oil/fats need to be heated, somewhere between 100 and 125 > > degrees, according to Kathy , who looks like a soap-making expert; her > > website is > > > http://www.users.silverlink.net/~timer/soapproc.html. > > > > > > That's all I've learned so far. Please let me know if you have any tips. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Sun, 02 December 2001, " " wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > I hope someone can help me. I am in the middel of making the homemade > > soap. > > > > I am stirring everything up I have a good consistency but there is > > excess > > > > water that won't absorb. > > > > > > > > Is this ok ? Should Idrain it? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 8, 2001 Report Share Posted December 8, 2001 Hi , I used the lye calculator and this is the result. " Untitled Recipe Service provided by Majestic Mountain Sage http://www.the-sage.com © 1996-2000 Majestic Mountain Sage, Liquids For the size of fat batch that you are using, we recommend that you use approximately 18 fluid ounces of liquid. WARNING: Always add your solid form lye, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, to the liquid. If the liquid were added to the solid form lye a violent reaction could result. This means you could have a " volcano " erupt out of your container. Fats & Oils Fat Amount (oz wt) % in recipe Aloe Oil 48 100.00 Total Weight 48 Lye Table (NaOH) % excess fat Lye Amount (oz wt) 0 8.38 1 8.30 2 8.22 3 8.13 4 8.05 5 7.96 6 7.88 7 7.80 8 7.71 9 7.63 10 7.55 0% to 4% excess fat range: Proceed with caution! We do not recommend this unless actual saponification values are known and used. 5% to 8% excess fat range: This is the range we use most often. 9% to 10% excess fat range: Creates a softer soap because of the amount of excess fat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 8, 2001 Report Share Posted December 8, 2001 Hi and everyone interested in making soap, My soap did turn out. I was able to cut it into bars and it is drying for the six weeks recommended by Kathy on her website (http://users.silverlink.net/~timer/soapproc.html). Based on the lye calculations in your e-mail, I would use more than 7.75 but less than 8 ounces of lye. The mold I'm using now is the Martha plastic large cutlery tray that I found at K-Mart. It has three compartments, each as wide as a bar of soap. It's a couple of inches deep, so it's easy to pour enough into without spilling it. And it's edges are rectangular, so you get a full bar of soap all the way around. You could use a dishpan, like Dr. suggests in her book. I couldn't find freezer paper, but I found parchment paper and will try that next time. Maybe I'll even try cheesecloth. On this last batch that turned out, I experimented with different liners and in one compartment, no liner at all. One of the liners was some flexible plastic that I had leftover (it used to be a bag that sheets came in from the store). That worked well in allowing me to pull the whole compartment of soap out and then slip fishing line underneath the big bar to cut it into 2-3 " widths. Another liner was some leather-like material that had flannel backing (also a leftover from another project). That worked well and insulated the soap (apparently necessary to make sure it doesn't cool to quickly and crack?). I also insulated the whole cutlery tray with a towel, which probably would have been adequate on its own. In the third compartment, I used no liner. The soap had to dry for almost a week before I could gently pry it out of the mold, but I successfully did that and cut it into bars also. I used light olive oil on this last batch and I could really tell a difference in not being able to smell the strong olive scent. Hope this helps, On Sat, 08 December 2001, " " wrote: > > Hi , > I used the lye calculator and this is the result. > > " Untitled Recipe Service provided by Majestic Mountain Sage > http://www.the-sage.com > © 1996-2000 Majestic Mountain Sage, > > Liquids > For the size of fat batch that you are using, we recommend that you use > approximately 18 fluid ounces of liquid. > > > WARNING: Always add your solid form lye, sodium hydroxide or potassium > hydroxide, to the liquid. If the liquid were added to the solid form lye a > violent reaction could result. This means you could have a " volcano " erupt > out of your container. > > Fats & Oils Fat Amount > (oz wt) % in > recipe > Aloe Oil 48 100.00 > Total Weight 48 > Lye Table (NaOH) % excess fat Lye Amount > (oz wt) > 0 8.38 > 1 8.30 > 2 8.22 > 3 8.13 > 4 8.05 > 5 7.96 > 6 7.88 > 7 7.80 > 8 7.71 > 9 7.63 > 10 7.55 > > 0% to 4% excess fat range: Proceed with caution! We do not recommend this > unless actual saponification values are known and used. > 5% to 8% excess fat range: This is the range we use most often. > 9% to 10% excess fat range: Creates a softer soap because of the amount of > excess fat. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 8, 2001 Report Share Posted December 8, 2001 Very good! What do you mean by using fishing line underneath the big bar? Is a knife not adequate to cut the soap? Re: soap > Hi and everyone interested in making soap, > > My soap did turn out. I was able to cut it into bars and it is drying for the six weeks recommended by Kathy on her website (http://users.silverlink.net/~timer/soapproc.html). > > Based on the lye calculations in your e-mail, I would use more than 7.75 but less than 8 ounces of lye. > > The mold I'm using now is the Martha plastic large cutlery tray that I found at K-Mart. It has three compartments, each as wide as a bar of soap. It's a couple of inches deep, so it's easy to pour enough into without spilling it. And it's edges are rectangular, so you get a full bar of soap all the way around. You could use a dishpan, like Dr. suggests in her book. > > I couldn't find freezer paper, but I found parchment paper and will try that next time. Maybe I'll even try cheesecloth. On this last batch that turned out, I experimented with different liners and in one compartment, no liner at all. One of the liners was some flexible plastic that I had leftover (it used to be a bag that sheets came in from the store). That worked well in allowing me to pull the whole compartment of soap out and then slip fishing line underneath the big bar to cut it into 2-3 " widths. Another liner was some leather-like material that had flannel backing (also a leftover from another project). That worked well and insulated the soap (apparently necessary to make sure it doesn't cool to quickly and crack?). I also insulated the whole cutlery tray with a towel, which probably would have been adequate on its own. In the third compartment, I used no liner. The soap had to dry for almost a week before I could gently pry it out of the mold, but I successfully did that and cut it into bars also. > > I used light olive oil on this last batch and I could really tell a difference in not being able to smell the strong olive scent. > > Hope this helps, > > > On Sat, 08 December 2001, " " wrote: > > > > > Hi , > > I used the lye calculator and this is the result. > > > > " Untitled Recipe Service provided by Majestic Mountain Sage > > http://www.the-sage.com > > © 1996-2000 Majestic Mountain Sage, > > > > Liquids > > For the size of fat batch that you are using, we recommend that you use > > approximately 18 fluid ounces of liquid. > > > > > > WARNING: Always add your solid form lye, sodium hydroxide or potassium > > hydroxide, to the liquid. If the liquid were added to the solid form lye a > > violent reaction could result. This means you could have a " volcano " erupt > > out of your container. > > > > Fats & Oils Fat Amount > > (oz wt) % in > > recipe > > Aloe Oil 48 100.00 > > Total Weight 48 > > Lye Table (NaOH) % excess fat Lye Amount > > (oz wt) > > 0 8.38 > > 1 8.30 > > 2 8.22 > > 3 8.13 > > 4 8.05 > > 5 7.96 > > 6 7.88 > > 7 7.80 > > 8 7.71 > > 9 7.63 > > 10 7.55 > > > > 0% to 4% excess fat range: Proceed with caution! We do not recommend this > > unless actual saponification values are known and used. > > 5% to 8% excess fat range: This is the range we use most often. > > 9% to 10% excess fat range: Creates a softer soap because of the amount of > > excess fat. > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 8, 2001 Report Share Posted December 8, 2001 Sure, I guess you can use a knife. I just read someone's recommendation about using fishing line, so I tried it. (Plus, I had a bunch leftover that I tried to use as dental floss but it was too thick. I couldn't find 2 lb.) Anyway, I took the long bar (about 18 inches long and four inches wide by 3/4 inch deep) out of the mold, scooted the line underneath the bar in the place where I wanted to make the first cut and pulled up. It cut nicely without smooshing the soap, which may happen if you use a knife on really soft soap. I then moved down the bar, cutting every couple of inches to make a bunch of nice bars. On Sat, 08 December 2001, " " wrote: > > Very good! > > What do you mean by using fishing line underneath the big bar? Is a knife > not adequate to cut the soap? > > > Re: soap > > > > Hi and everyone interested in making soap, > > > > My soap did turn out. I was able to cut it into bars and it is drying for > the six weeks recommended by Kathy on her website > (http://users.silverlink.net/~timer/soapproc.html). > > > > Based on the lye calculations in your e-mail, I would use more than 7.75 > but less than 8 ounces of lye. > > > > The mold I'm using now is the Martha plastic large cutlery tray > that I found at K-Mart. It has three compartments, each as wide as a bar of > soap. It's a couple of inches deep, so it's easy to pour enough into > without spilling it. And it's edges are rectangular, so you get a full bar > of soap all the way around. You could use a dishpan, like Dr. > suggests in her book. > > > > I couldn't find freezer paper, but I found parchment paper and will try > that next time. Maybe I'll even try cheesecloth. On this last batch that > turned out, I experimented with different liners and in one compartment, no > liner at all. One of the liners was some flexible plastic that I had > leftover (it used to be a bag that sheets came in from the store). That > worked well in allowing me to pull the whole compartment of soap out and > then slip fishing line underneath the big bar to cut it into 2-3 " widths. > Another liner was some leather-like material that had flannel backing (also > a leftover from another project). That worked well and insulated the soap > (apparently necessary to make sure it doesn't cool to quickly and crack?). > I also insulated the whole cutlery tray with a towel, which probably would > have been adequate on its own. In the third compartment, I used no liner. > The soap had to dry for almost a week before I could gently pry it out of > the mold, but I successfully did that and cut it into bars also. > > > > I used light olive oil on this last batch and I could really tell a > difference in not being able to smell the strong olive scent. > > > > Hope this helps, > > > > > > On Sat, 08 December 2001, " " wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi , > > > I used the lye calculator and this is the result. > > > > > > " Untitled Recipe Service provided by Majestic Mountain Sage > > > http://www.the-sage.com > > > © 1996-2000 Majestic Mountain Sage, > > > > > > Liquids > > > For the size of fat batch that you are using, we recommend that you use > > > approximately 18 fluid ounces of liquid. > > > > > > > > > WARNING: Always add your solid form lye, sodium hydroxide or potassium > > > hydroxide, to the liquid. If the liquid were added to the solid form lye > a > > > violent reaction could result. This means you could have a " volcano " > erupt > > > out of your container. > > > > > > Fats & Oils Fat Amount > > > (oz wt) % in > > > recipe > > > Aloe Oil 48 100.00 > > > Total Weight 48 > > > Lye Table (NaOH) % excess fat Lye Amount > > > (oz wt) > > > 0 8.38 > > > 1 8.30 > > > 2 8.22 > > > 3 8.13 > > > 4 8.05 > > > 5 7.96 > > > 6 7.88 > > > 7 7.80 > > > 8 7.71 > > > 9 7.63 > > > 10 7.55 > > > > > > 0% to 4% excess fat range: Proceed with caution! We do not recommend > this > > > unless actual saponification values are known and used. > > > 5% to 8% excess fat range: This is the range we use most often. > > > 9% to 10% excess fat range: Creates a softer soap because of the amount > of > > > excess fat. > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 13, 2005 Report Share Posted January 13, 2005 It is easy to make soap at home but you need thermometers to measure temps of the two liquids. The lye makes the water hot / the oils also need to be heated. Timing is critical, if temperatures are wrong when you mix the two things, you will not get the chemical reaction and it will not harden. There are plenty of recipes for soap on the internet and also plenty of books out there. Some beekeepers make their own soap. Try contacting your local beekeepers association or find a local crafter. Here is a recipe - Soap VII -- Beeswax Castile - 13 oz weight olive oil - 2 oz beeswax - 1 oz palm oil - 2.1 oz lye - 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) (melt the beeswax with the fats) Fat and lye/water temperature about 150 degrees F. Tracing time: about 12 minutes FAST! (This is not a good blender soap candidate!) Time in molds: 48 hours. Place the soap in a freezer for 3 hours, then remove it from the molds. Age: 6 to 8 weeks for the bars to harden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted March 5, 2005 Report Share Posted March 5, 2005 Dear , DO NOT MAKE SOAP IF YOU DON'T RESEARCH FIRST ON HOW TO MAKE IT. YOU CAN BURN YOURSELF. I can tell you have no idea about making soap, you said BOIL the lye? The lye will be at boiling temp when you mix it with cold water!!! Look it up on the Internet, there are thousands of sites that explain to you how to make soap. Elena.(I make my own soap for years now). Baron <@...> wrote: I bought the ingredients to make Dr.'s homemade soap , but in her book(The Cure For All Diseases on page 529) it doesn't say if you're supposed to boil the ingredients , and if you are supposed to boil the water and Lye, it doesn't say for how long. And when do you add the olive oil? and do you really use 48 ounces of olive oil? (or is that a misprint? ) Can somebody help me? Thank You ---------------------------------------- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 111 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try www.SPAMfighter.com for free now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 13, 2007 Report Share Posted May 13, 2007 Hi, I just saw your note, and I'm wondering what name brand feminine wash your using to bathe it, I stood in the soap section of Sprouts yesturday for quite awhile and could not find anything without somekind of oil in it. cinesina65 <cinesina@...> wrote: I made an amzing discovery this morning...I'm still on phase 1 and slowly collecting all the stuff that I need that do notcontain oil. Well I was in the shower and read the ingredients to my summer's evefeminine wash, hey no oils!!! and you know what it has soap suds!!!You don't know how happy I am to know I am going to be able to sudsmy whole body up!!! Now the guys will know how fresh it will feel to be a woman! LOL Building a website is a piece of cake. Small Business gives you all the tools to get online. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 13, 2007 Report Share Posted May 13, 2007 Summer's Eve, on all the soaps it kept saying glycrine, so I was getting a big discouraged because I like my soap suds makes me feel cleaner LOL but this does not mention any glycerine on it. happy washing LOL I made an amzing discovery this morning...I'm still on phase 1 > and slowly collecting all the stuff that I need that do not > contain oil. > > Well I was in the shower and read the ingredients to my summer's eve > feminine wash, hey no oils!!! and you know what it has soap suds!!! > You don't know how happy I am to know I am going to be able to suds > my whole body up!!! > > Now the guys will know how fresh it will feel to be a woman! LOL > > > > > > > --------------------------------- > Building a website is a piece of cake. > Small Business gives you all the tools to get online. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 13, 2007 Report Share Posted May 13, 2007 Thank you so much for that tidbit, now I know what to buy.cinesina65 <cinesina@...> wrote: Summer's Eve, on all the soaps it kept saying glycrine, so I was getting a big discouraged because I like my soap suds makes me feel cleaner LOL but this does not mention any glycerine on it.happy washing LOL I made an amzing discovery this morning...I'm still on phase 1 > and slowly collecting all the stuff that I need that do not> contain oil. > > Well I was in the shower and read the ingredients to my summer's eve> feminine wash, hey no oils!!! and you know what it has soap suds!!!> You don't know how happy I am to know I am going to be able to suds> my whole body up!!! > > Now the guys will know how fresh it will feel to be a woman! LOL> > > > > > > ---------------------------------> Building a website is a piece of cake. > Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.> Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with FareChase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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