Re: Long-Term Remediation

[Guest guest]

Hey, one year out and getting ready to move my things in a couple of

months to a storage shed behind my house, but it will be more like

50 ft from the house. I have had over the year some luck remediating

things- anything that can soak in the wash for 12 hrs- the lights

with lots of bleach, borax and soap come out good. The darks were

more problamatic- but I recently tried Vulpex soap, and that did the

trick on it. Vulpex is a conservators soap and you can find it by

googeling, but it is very expensive- but a very strong de-greaser.

Its advantage is that it is misable in water or de-natured alchohol-

and that mixture has helped me to remediate some metal items. I do

not think coating wood with any thing will help, the toxins would

come through- You would not want to contaminate your clean house

with a table and chairs- the outdoor furniture might be able to be

scrubbed clean,and at least keeping it outside is safer. The cloth

items you could probable wash and use again, no? The problem with

recommending snything is that my mycotoxins might be different from

yours, so they would have different properties as far as their

ability to be cleaned

Best of luck

>

> Hello everyone,

> I would like to ask for advice regarding storage /remediation 2

years

> out.

>

> I am going tomorrow to sort though my offsite storage unit to try

to

> donate a lot of stuff from my mold house. The following week I

will

> be moving my storage to a small enclosed storage unit, in my

current

> backyard.

>

> Feeling a bit of anxiety, but it will save me a ton of money, and

make

> it easier to sell things via garage sales.

>

> Questions:

>

> 1) Has anyone experienced problems storing their contaminated

> belongings in an enclosed locked room 10 feet away from their back

> door?

>

> 2) If there are cloth items (clothing, tablecloths, etc) I am not

> ready to part ways with, should I store them in double garbage

bags,

> or breathable mesh bags?

>

> 2) Is it wise to assume I can seal wooden furniture (such as

patio

> furniture, antiques) with some type of laquer, of waterproof

sealant,

> and they won't bother me again? I have some outdoor furniture I'd

> like to seal and use again, as well as a fairly new dinng room

table

> and chairs.

>

> Am I crazy? Am I playing with fire? What are the alternatives?

Get

> rid of everything? Very difficult to think that way...

>

> Jules

>

> (P.S. I managed to remediate some ceramic plates and a metal

teakettle

> to the point they don't bother me when in my home. What are other

> people's experiences 2 years out?)

>

[Guest guest]

" julesblucky " wrote:

> Questions:

>

> 1) Has anyone experienced problems storing their contaminated

> belongings in an enclosed locked room 10 feet away from their back

> door?

> Am I crazy? Am I playing with fire? What are the alternatives?

Get rid of everything? Very difficult to think that way...

> Jules

What are other

> people's experiences 2 years out?)

>

At two years, I could not visit my stored possessions without a VOC

rated face mask and certainly could not tolerate them in my safe zone.

It was interesting that up until around four years, the toxic symptoms

were predominant and then slowly died away - leaving the

classic 'allergic' response until further remediation.

Since reactivity varies so much in individuals, and toxicity varies

so much in spores, and duration of exposure varies so much for

possessions, it would be imprudent to project a " die off date " for

toxins that might remotely be considered reliable. Far better to

assess your response to selected objects and act accordingly before

plunging into disaster by bringing too many contaminated items into

your presence.

A highly reactive person re-exposing themselves to contaminated

possessions is like playing with gasoline, and adding to it by

bringing a storage locker full of items within ten feet of their back

door is like then playing with fire.

-