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Violet Accord

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I purposely timed experimenting on a Violet accord when my

violets (Viola odorata spp.) are in bloom which is now. To my mind,

if a perfumer desires to create a soliflore Violet perfume, the

perfumer should know the fragrance of real, fresh and fragrant violet

flowers and use this as a platform upon which to build his/her

conception of a beautiful violet perfume. So I have been asmelling

violets from dawn to dusk to really imprint the odor on the brain and

in the soul. Funny thing about violets is that you get that initial,

spectacular light and airy and oh so esoteric whiff of violet and

then immediately after - olfactory fatigue. So you really can't make

a long study at a given time of the fresh violet because you need to

recover before the nose starts to work again. I believe the quick

fatigue is caused by the ionone content of the violet. It is a

wonderful and terrible experience all at once because you are

overwhelmed by the spectacular odor during the first few seconds and

then you are immediately cut off wanting more and being forced to

wait until later! I'm not sure, but I think that the violet is unique

among flowers in this respect - She is a real tease!

As for the results of my investigations, my violets smell

very, very close to Orris butter. In fact, I am kind of surprised

just how close they are. I am thinking that my Violet accord will be

a majority of Orris with little additions of this and that such as

Costus oil and Cassie absolute to round it out and give some more

depth and fixation. However, this is both good and bad. It is good

because a perfumer can naturally immitate a no-longer available

material (Violet flower absolute) by using an available natural

substitute (Orris). The cost of a compound with such a large

percentage of orris is the bad part. And I am using Orris

butter/concrete/oil. If I could obtain it, I wonder how much genuine

Orris absolute would cost? I think Violet potpourri is going to be

very expensive, too.

Mark

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<And I am using Orris

butter/concrete/oil. If I could obtain it, I wonder how much genuine

Orris absolute would cost? I think Violet potpourri is going to be

very expensive, too.>

In incense orris root is used often and is not so expensive. Why is

it that the Concrete and butter are so costly? I recently sampled

some of the butter and it is truly captivating, but the

price ....Perhaps a tincture?....I'll go to the files and see about.

Katlyn

Mermade Magickal Arts (since 1984)

Katlyn Breene (owner)

http://www.mermadearts.com/

mermade@...

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