TOTD 090108: EDC, EDT, EDP, etc.

[Guest guest]

Do you work with defined categories for your perfume creations, eau

de cologne, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, parfum, etc.? How exactly

do you arrive at and keep yourself within whatever parameters you

use, by using more or less concentrated alcohol, more or less

aromatic material, adding distillate water or plain water, etc.?

[Guest guest]

I cannot for the life of me confine a blend to one thing. I'm more of a

'layering' type person. I like a nice good soap in the scent that I wish to wear

or make and then a light body oil, shampoo/conditioner , lotion, powder or

butter.......mostly tho, if I must, its a solid.  I like scent that is evenly

dispersed that integrates with the person's chemistry from head to toe because

the release is even, and lingers in a non assualtive manner.

 

I did do a few 'skin' gels that were scent for after shave type facial lotions

for men. But i also had a shaving soap to match and a bath soap LOL!

 

I CAN'T HELP IT.

 

character defect.

 

e

[Guest guest]

>

> Do you work with defined categories for your perfume creations, eau

> de cologne, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, parfum, etc.? How

exactly

> do you arrive at and keep yourself within whatever parameters you

> use, by using more or less concentrated alcohol, more or less

> aromatic material, adding distillate water or plain water, etc.?

>

Adam, would you mind redefining the 'eau de's' ? or direct me to where

i could find this? i can't find it in my books. thank you!!!!

[Guest guest]

On Sep 1, 2008, at 2:04 PM, dabney rose wrote:

> Adam, would you mind redefining the 'eau de's' ? or direct me to

> where

> i could find this? i can't find it in my books. thank you!!!!

The opinions appear to vary widely. The only thing I can say for sure

is that from most concentrated to least it's:

Parfum

eau de parfum

eau de toilette

eau de cologne

[Guest guest]

>

> > Adam, would you mind redefining the 'eau de's' ? or direct me

to

> > where

> > i could find this? i can't find it in my books. thank you!!!!

>

> The opinions appear to vary widely. The only thing I can say for

sure

> is that from most concentrated to least it's:

>

> Parfum

> eau de parfum

> eau de toilette

> eau de cologne

>

thanks! that's great.

i'm thinking i remember the last one being like 15% ?

[Guest guest]

On Sep 1, 2008, at 4:03 PM, dabney rose wrote:

> thanks! that's great.

> i'm thinking i remember the last one being like 15% ?

I think this is part of what confuses me: is that 15% aromatic

material in 190-proof alcohol by weight? Is it 200-proof for a

parfum? If a person says and eau de toilette should have X% aromatic

material, what proof alcohol are they referring to? Isn't lowering

the proof (by adding water) one way to arrive at the different

distinctions?

[Guest guest]

Dabney,

Greetings!!! There are many different percentages depending on who

wrote them, but here is one I copied a while back for my reference. All

of the charts are fairly close (within 5% of each other in any given

category). I think I have seen Perfume as high as 35%, but I think that

is the highest I've noticed personally. Of course you can make it

anything you like!!! It depends on the oils, some are much nicer

diluted. Each formula can be judged individually. You can always make

it perfume strength, and dilute it later if you think it is too strong,

or try it at several different strengths.

Perfume extract (Extrait): 15-30% (IFRA: typical 20%) aromatic

compounds

Eau de Parfum (EdP): 10-15% (typical ~15%) aromatic compounds.

Sometimes listed as " eau de perfume " .

Eau de Toilette (EdT): 5-20% (typical ~10%) aromatic compounds

Eau de Cologne (EdC): 2-5% aromatic compounds

Splash Perfumes, EdS and aftershaves: 0.5-2% aromatic compounds

One of the hardest things for me to learn when I started, was how

to keep track of the amounts, and then how to figure the % amount of

alcohol. Now, I keep track of the oils by drops while making a

formulation and total them when finished. Aftel's book says that there

are approximately 40 drops in one ml (milliliter). So, I basically

follow that formula. To make it simple, if you had ten drops of EO's,

you would want 100% total for a 10% solution (multiply oils X 10 for

your total). I always add some distilled water also, or a hydrosol. So

here is an example:

10 drops EO's X 10 = 100 total. If no water is added, you would have

90% alcohol, or 2.25 ml. (in case you don't want to count out 90

drops), LOL!!!!

If you want 10% water or Hydrosol, deduct 10 for oils and 10 for water

(20), and that leaves 80 drops of alcohol divided by 40 = 2 ml. of

alcohol. If you add water it might make your solution cloudy, so you

can add a bit more alcohol until it clears up. Sometimes it will clear

after it sits a while.

I hope that is the information you were asking for? If not let me

know and I will try to help (if I know, LOL)!!! If you are having

problems understanding, please feel free to let me know. Or there are

many experts here that can probably answer you better than I.

Best regards,

Rich

[Guest guest]

Dabney and All,

I found another chart on strengths I had stashed. Is is pretty much

the same as the other one I found:

by percentage % of total % of remainder oil % alcohol % water %

perfume 15 - 30 90 - 95 5 - 10 eau de perfume 8 - 15 80 - 90 10 -

20 eau de toilette 4 - 8 80 - 90 10 - 20 eau de cologne 3 - 5 70

30 cologne splash 1 - 3 80 20

I read somewhere that adding water helps the tenacity a bit, by

keeping the alcohol from flashing off the skin too fast, and taking

fragrance with it. I was not adding any water to my formulations in the

beginning. I started adding it after I read that information. I can't

tell if it helps or not, but anything to help staying power is a good

thing for me!!! I never add more than 5 to 10% water, or hydrosol (you

canuse a hydrosol instead of water, like Rose water, Lavender water).

Hope that helps. I like this chart because it has the water also.

Ciao!!!

Rich

[Guest guest]

>

> > thanks! that's great.

> > i'm thinking i remember the last one being like 15% ?

>

> I think this is part of what confuses me: is that 15% aromatic

> material in 190-proof alcohol by weight? Is it 200-proof for a

> parfum? If a person says and eau de toilette should have X% aromatic

> material, what proof alcohol are they referring to? Isn't lowering

> the proof (by adding water) one way to arrive at the different

> distinctions?

>

as you say..there are a lot of variations out there. the math goes

right over my head. i try to think of it like this..if it's a gray

area, that can be used to my advantage as well.

[Guest guest]

>

>

> Dabney and All,

>

> I found another chart on strengths I had stashed. Is is

pretty much

> the same as the other one I found:

>

> by percentage % of total % of remainder oil % alcohol %

water %

> perfume 15 - 30 90 - 95 5 - 10 eau de perfume 8 - 15 80 - 90

10 -

> 20 eau de toilette 4 - 8 80 - 90 10 - 20 eau de cologne 3 - 5

70

> 30 cologne splash 1 - 3 80 20

> that was most excellent!!!! thank you!!!! this subject has gotten

my gears going...i think i have been doing some of these with my

hydrosols and oils, and not really registering it in my brain.

thanks guys!!

>

[Guest guest]

> Now, I keep track of the oils by drops while making a

> formulation and total them when finished. Aftel's book says that

> there are approximately 40 drops in one ml (milliliter).

> So, I basically follow that formula. To make it simple, if you had

> ten drops of EO's, you would want 100% total for a 10% solution

> (multiply oils X 10 for your total).

Sorry this is almost off topic from EDT, EDP, EDC...

I still think that weight is your best bet. Because what I've found

is that drops are different sizes depending on density and specific

gravity. For instance: 74 drops of water make 1 dram. Using the

same dropper and the same vial (both cleaned and dried), 202 drops of

alcohol make one dram. Yet 60 drops of oil are supposed to make 1

dram. So you either have to keep all of that in mind while you're

blending, or you need to start weighing. Crazy stuff, chemistry.

Andrine

[Guest guest]

I must admit I am rather loosely defined when it comes to potency and

percentages. Some blends seem to need more than others and I blend and

dilute until they feel right. I always stay within a 20 - 30 % range.

I use distilled water lightly and only enough to help with the

alcohol effect.

I am , like probably many of us here, intuitive when it comes to

formulas, but I guarantee 20% aromatics.

Katlyn Breene

Mermade Magickal Arts (since 1984)

katmermade@...

http://www.mermadearts.com/

[Guest guest]

Perfume extract (Extrait): 15-30% (IFRA: typical 20%) aromatic

compounds

Eau de Parfum (EdP): 10-15% (typical ~15%) aromatic compounds.

Sometimes listed as " eau de perfume " .

Eau de Toilette (EdT): 5-20% (typical ~10%) aromatic compounds

Eau de Cologne (EdC): 2-5% aromatic compounds

Splash Perfumes, EdS and aftershaves: 0.5-2% aromatic compounds =-----

Does the same formula ratios work for perfume oils?  Is there a standard ratio

for EOs to carrier oil (such as jojoba)?

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