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TOTD 082708: essentials?

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What essences do you consider essential to making a balanced perfume?

For me it's ambergris and some kind of wood in the base

and some sort of rose and jasmine in the heart (otto and sambac count).

The top is more dependent on the goal. But the above I consider the

lifeblood of a perfume. Ambergris could be civet or other animal

ingredients (ambergris seems to me to be least objectionable and

least reminiscent of urine; haven't had any success with Africa Stone

yet.) Wood traditionally has been sandalwood but I am searching for

environmentally sound alternatives (like Australian sandalwood, etc.;

I like guaiacwood though its presence serves to sweeten more than

sandalwood).

I would include at least a drop of rose and at least of drop of

jasmine in anything. I almost feel as though it's not really a

perfume otherwise.

I favor neroli and petitgrain in the top but have nothing etched in

stone yet. Some minute amount of pepper or anise is almost as

essential as the above but not quite. I think of everything else

almost as accessory notes. The accessory notes serve the greater

purpose of the specific perfume in the works; ambergris, wood, rose,

and jasmine serve the purpose of making an honest-to-goodness perfume.

Making for " conflicts which are actually synergistic companions " I

consider essential to the alchemical art that is perfumery, but those

dynamics stand separate from the lifeblood of which I speak. Your

thoughts?

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Hi Adam and all,

I have been reading about accessory notes in a perfume blend.

What EOs do you consider accessory notes?

Angi

********************************************************

Hi Angi

Don't know if anyone has responded as yet. An accessory note is basically

anything that has a high odor intensity or, for some other reason, needs to be

used with caution in blending. I reckon that what some folks consider to be an

accessory note would not be considered to be such by other folks.

Here's a short list of mine:

Anise

Cinnamon

Clove

Choya (nakh or loban)

Galbanum

Litsea

Black Pepper

Cognac

Cepes

Mate

Nagarmotha

Tagetes

I'm sure there's lots more I haven't thought of or haven't used.

Patty

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perfumenatural wrote:

> Hi Patty,

>

> You are one of the 1600 people to give me good information on accessory

> notes! Thanks :)))))

>

Angi, you could have searched the archives for info on accessory notes

first, then you would have been able to present more of a focused

question. Not many know what accessory notes are, and even those who do

- well, sometimes there are different points of view.

I'm presenting them in detail next week in Module 11 for the Fall 2007

class, as part of the Carles technique. It's all presented in the

publication you have.

--

Anya

Anya's Garden http://AnyasGarden.com - perfumes, aromatics, classes,

consultation

Natural Perfumers Guild + blog with daily updates

http://NaturalPerfumersGuild.blogspot.com

1600+ member Natural Perfumery group -

http://health./group//

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Anya wrote:

> Anya wrote:

>> Adam Gottschalk wrote:

>>

>>> What essences do you consider essential to making a balanced perfume?

>>>

>>> For me it's ambergris and some kind of wood in the base

> This has the makings of a good thread, it'll give us all a look inside

> the artist's mind and creative process. Anybody else want to join in?

>

I've been thinking about this...and hesitated to post because I honestly

don't consider anything essential.

My joy in perfumery is constant experiementation and variety. And I

don't have any one thing I use in every perfume I make. Quite the contrary!

I do have a few favourites I have used in numerous perfumes....

As I've mentioned before, I really love citrus and often include them as

top notes...but I also make perfumes that have no citrus in them at all...

I have used sandalwood as part of many of the base notes I use....

It's probably one of the most versatile oils I've found...there are few

oils it doesn't harmonize with...

What I do consider essential, is combining essences that have a common

theme and creating perfumes that have a balance to them...so that top,

middle and base note are like different notes from the same key and

truly harmonize.....

I love the challenge of creating a new perfume starting with ingredients

I have never used in a perfume before....

Ambrosia

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