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TOTD 090808: accords

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Do you make an accord first and once you're happy with it add it to a

would-be perfume? Or do you make the perfume at once, bottom to top?

_____

I much prefer to make a perfume all at once then figure out what's

working and what's not after it's aged a bit. For me, it's very

similar to being on a roll when I'm writing--I don't want to stop in

the middle of it. When I have a recipe in hand to put together, I

have a clear idea of what I'm going for. That idea is often quite

visceral and needs to be expressed quickly or its reason for being is

in danger of becoming alien to me.

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Adam Gottschalk wrote:

> Do you make an accord first and once you're happy with it add it to a

> would-be perfume? Or do you make the perfume at once, bottom to top?

I usually build a perfume ngredient by ingredient. I do play around with

accords (in fact I've got a whole bottle library of them) but I find

that each oil or essence interacts in it's own individual way with each

other one...so you can't just combine different accords. It's too

unpredictable.

I'll often start off with one particular ingredient...and weave a

fragrance around it. Or I will start with a particular accord that I've

built, and add little bits a drop at a time of different things to

create a particular effect from it.

It never ceases to amaze me how the synergy of two (or more) oils can be

so totally different from the oils on their own.

Ambrosia

http://www.perfumebynature.com.au

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>

> Do you make an accord first and once you're happy with it add it to a

> would-be perfume? Or do you make the perfume at once, bottom to top?

> _____

>

> I much prefer to make a perfume all at once then figure out what's

> working and what's not after it's aged a bit. For me, it's very

> similar to being on a roll when I'm writing--I don't want to stop

> in the middle of it. When I have a recipe in hand to put together,

> I have a clear idea of what I'm going for. That idea is often

> quite visceral and needs to be expressed quickly or its reason for

> being is in danger of becoming alien to me.

>

I don't usually start with accords. If I'm working through some of

Mandy's stuff, or going in the direction of some of her ideas, I will,

but when I'm just making my own stuff off the cuff, I work from the

ground up. I think I should start doing more accord work though.

It's a great way to get more ideas how each level works on its own

before they're all married together.

Andrine

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>

> Do you make an accord first and once you're happy with it add it to a

> would-be perfume? Or do you make the perfume at once, bottom to top?

> _____

>

> I much prefer to make a perfume all at once then figure out what's

> working and what's not after it's aged a bit. For me, it's very

> similar to being on a roll when I'm writing--I don't want to stop

> in the middle of it. When I have a recipe in hand to put together,

> I have a clear idea of what I'm going for. That idea is often

> quite visceral and needs to be expressed quickly or its reason for

> being is in danger of becoming alien to me.

>

I don't usually start with accords. If I'm working through some of

Mandy's stuff, or going in the direction of some of her ideas, I will,

but when I'm just making my own stuff off the cuff, I work from the

ground up. I think I should start doing more accord work though.

It's a great way to get more ideas how each level works on its own

before they're all married together.

Andrine

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>

> Do you make an accord first and once you're happy with it add it to a

> would-be perfume? Or do you make the perfume at once, bottom to top?

> _____

>

> I much prefer to make a perfume all at once then figure out what's

> working and what's not after it's aged a bit. For me, it's very

> similar to being on a roll when I'm writing--I don't want to stop

> in the middle of it. When I have a recipe in hand to put together,

> I have a clear idea of what I'm going for. That idea is often

> quite visceral and needs to be expressed quickly or its reason for

> being is in danger of becoming alien to me.

>

I don't usually start with accords. If I'm working through some of

Mandy's stuff, or going in the direction of some of her ideas, I will,

but when I'm just making my own stuff off the cuff, I work from the

ground up. I think I should start doing more accord work though.

It's a great way to get more ideas how each level works on its own

before they're all married together.

Andrine

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> Adam Gottschalk wrote:

> Do you make an accord first and once you're happy with it add it to a

> would-be perfume? Or do you make the perfume at once, bottom to top?

Hi Folks....

I've come at things a couple of ways...

Sometimes, it has been the one essence start, and modify....

I personally have had no great success this way, but have odd bottles

all over the flat...

Recently, it's pick a number of essences by base-middle-top....

Group them off and live with the groups for a bit....maybe change an

essence or two...

By live I mean do parallel dryouts, things like that.....don't create an

accord per say...But fool with them incessantly for a week or

two....Balance the powers...by group and groups together....

Lately I've had the most fragrant trash...<G>....!

I calculate how much essence I have to work with for the final volume...

Apportion the groups out...on paper...

When I feel somewhat in tune....

Build from the bottom up.......making last minute changes at that time.....

Make enough for two batches, and let them marry...

When they seem to stop changing notceably......tweak time....

Nothing spectacular yet.....but have several in process....

--

W. Bourbonais

L'Hermite Aromatique

A.J.P. (GIA)

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> Adam Gottschalk wrote:

> Do you make an accord first and once you're happy with it add it to a

> would-be perfume? Or do you make the perfume at once, bottom to top?

Hi Folks....

I've come at things a couple of ways...

Sometimes, it has been the one essence start, and modify....

I personally have had no great success this way, but have odd bottles

all over the flat...

Recently, it's pick a number of essences by base-middle-top....

Group them off and live with the groups for a bit....maybe change an

essence or two...

By live I mean do parallel dryouts, things like that.....don't create an

accord per say...But fool with them incessantly for a week or

two....Balance the powers...by group and groups together....

Lately I've had the most fragrant trash...<G>....!

I calculate how much essence I have to work with for the final volume...

Apportion the groups out...on paper...

When I feel somewhat in tune....

Build from the bottom up.......making last minute changes at that time.....

Make enough for two batches, and let them marry...

When they seem to stop changing notceably......tweak time....

Nothing spectacular yet.....but have several in process....

--

W. Bourbonais

L'Hermite Aromatique

A.J.P. (GIA)

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<> It never ceases to amaze me how the synergy of two (or more) oils

> can be

> so totally different from the oils on their own.

This alchemical nature of our art is I think the crux of it all.>

I know, often the combination of the essences will have compeletely different

properties than the essences used.  For instance, say you think adding something

spicy to something woody would give you something dry and woody with a spicy

kick, and instead you get something totally smooth without any spicyness or dry

woodiness.  Or maybe you use a bunch of florals with some other things and it

ends up not smelling floral at all, maybe it gets green or woody or whatever. 

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