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TOTD 092408: ratios

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We know that perfume construction is traditionally done with

categories of base middle and top. (I happen to think that some day

those might be expanded to five; some notes are in between; but

that's a different story.)

Do you construct your perfumes with equal proportions in each

category, base, middle, and top? Does it change from brew to brew? Do

you make the perfume, let it mature, and then decide if different

proportions are needed? Is there a proportion that you find generally

works best, like 30% base, 20% middle, 50% top, or whatever?

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Adam Gottschalk wrote:

> Do you construct your perfumes with equal proportions in each

> category, base, middle, and top? Does it change from brew to brew? Do

> you make the perfume, let it mature, and then decide if different

> proportions are needed? Is there a proportion that you find generally

> works best, like 30% base, 20% middle, 50% top, or whatever?

>

>

It varies with the perfume. You always need a good dose in the topnotes,

their light molecular weight and role in the perfume demands they be

able to make a statement.

I tend to write out alternative formulas in advance, keep stringent

records and notes, and rarely find the need to re-formulate after aging.

Just a bit of accessorizing, or " bouquetting " perhaps.

Due to the longevity factor, I always try to have the base note ratio

amped up, too.

--

Sincerely, Anya

Anya's Garden http://AnyasGarden.com - perfumes, aromatics, classes,

consultation

Natural Perfumers Guild + blog with daily updates

http://NaturalPerfumersGuild.blogspot.com

1600+ member Natural Perfumery group -

http://health./group//

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On Sep 24, 2008, at 11:06 AM, Adam Gottschalk wrote:

> Do you construct your perfumes with equal proportions in each

> category, base, middle, and top? Does it change from brew to brew? Do

> you make the perfume, let it mature, and then decide if different

> proportions are needed? Is there a proportion that you find generally

> works best, like 30% base, 20% middle, 50% top, or whatever?

I always make a perfume from a written-out recipe and only very

rarely alter it as I'm making it. I do frequently change a recipe

depending on the results after maturing. I find I do change the

ratios depending on what I'm trying to achieve, what my " thought

form " is for the perfume, what part I want to emphasize. No set

proportions work for me; it's ad hoc.

I tend to like base notes best and always end up with base-note heavy

recipes. The one I like the most, what I consider my most successful

perfume so far, has 30 : 10 : 20 drops, base : middle : top. My

successful chypre is 25 : 20 : 15. Another good one is even across

the board. I've yet to make an alcohol perfume with the greatest

concentration in the top; solids of course are different.

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> Do you construct your perfumes with equal proportions in each

> category, base, middle, and top? Does it change from brew to brew? Do

> you make the perfume, let it mature, and then decide if different

> proportions are needed? Is there a proportion that you find generally

> works best, like 30% base, 20% middle, 50% top, or whatever?

I always make a perfume from a written-out recipe and only very

rarely alter it as I'm making it. I do frequently change a recipe

depending on the results after maturing. I find I do change the

ratios depending on what I'm trying to achieve, what my " thought

form " is for the perfume, what part I want to emphasize. No set

proportions work for me; it's ad hoc.

I tend to like base notes best and always end up with base-note heavy

recipes. The one I like the most, what I consider my most successful

perfume so far, has 30 : 10 : 20 drops, base : middle : top. My

successful chypre is 25 : 20 : 15. Another good one is even across

the board. I've yet to make an alcohol perfume with the greatest

concentration in the top; solids of course are different.

For me, it really depends on the essences I am using. I adjust and nuance as I

go along and most of all I listen .

with every good wishhttp://www.janitahaan.com

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> Do you construct your perfumes with equal proportions in each

> category, base, middle, and top? Does it change from brew to brew? Do

> you make the perfume, let it mature, and then decide if different

> proportions are needed? Is there a proportion that you find generally

> works best, like 30% base, 20% middle, 50% top, or whatever?

I always make a perfume from a written-out recipe and only very

rarely alter it as I'm making it. I do frequently change a recipe

depending on the results after maturing. I find I do change the

ratios depending on what I'm trying to achieve, what my " thought

form " is for the perfume, what part I want to emphasize. No set

proportions work for me; it's ad hoc.

I tend to like base notes best and always end up with base-note heavy

recipes. The one I like the most, what I consider my most successful

perfume so far, has 30 : 10 : 20 drops, base : middle : top. My

successful chypre is 25 : 20 : 15. Another good one is even across

the board. I've yet to make an alcohol perfume with the greatest

concentration in the top; solids of course are different.

For me, it really depends on the essences I am using. I adjust and nuance as I

go along and most of all I listen .

with every good wishhttp://www.janitahaan.com

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> Do you construct your perfumes with equal proportions in each

> category, base, middle, and top? Does it change from brew to brew? Do

> you make the perfume, let it mature, and then decide if different

> proportions are needed? Is there a proportion that you find generally

> works best, like 30% base, 20% middle, 50% top, or whatever?

I always make a perfume from a written-out recipe and only very

rarely alter it as I'm making it. I do frequently change a recipe

depending on the results after maturing. I find I do change the

ratios depending on what I'm trying to achieve, what my " thought

form " is for the perfume, what part I want to emphasize. No set

proportions work for me; it's ad hoc.

I tend to like base notes best and always end up with base-note heavy

recipes. The one I like the most, what I consider my most successful

perfume so far, has 30 : 10 : 20 drops, base : middle : top. My

successful chypre is 25 : 20 : 15. Another good one is even across

the board. I've yet to make an alcohol perfume with the greatest

concentration in the top; solids of course are different.

For me, it really depends on the essences I am using. I adjust and nuance as I

go along and most of all I listen .

with every good wishhttp://www.janitahaan.com

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