eggnot = the real thing

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The best eggnog doesn't come in a carton

There was a time — we are talking centuries here — when Christmas and New Year's would have been considered most unmerry if not for a boozy glass of richly delicious eggnog.

But in recent holidays past, Americans grew fearful of raw eggs and terrified of anything with fat.

Today, grocers stock their cooler cases with all manner of ultra-pasteurized eggnog adulterations: low-fat and no-fat versions, and soy concoctions for which the "egg" in the nog is more allusion than reality.

It's no wonder that eggnog at the holidays now is more cliché than must-have beverage.

"Eggnog has gotten a bad rap because people have only had the cooked method, and it's a little sweet and thick, and they then douse it with all this rum, which takes away from its essence," Food Network recipe developer Copeland says.

"There is no comparison between a commercial eggnog and a fresh one," she says. "You can't judge eggnog until you have had a fresh eggnog."

Ready to make merry with the real thing? Here's what you need to know.

The eggs

Eggnog essentially is a liquid custard, and the main component of custard is eggs. In real eggnog, the yolks and the whites play different — but equally important — roles.

The yolks lend the drink its thick, creamy texture. The whites, which are whipped, then gently folded into the drink shortly before serving, give the punch its frothiness.

With the eggs playing such a starring role, you want the best quality possible, Copeland says. In this case, that means spending the extra few dollars to get organic eggs laid by free-range birds.

Thanks in part to the quality of the food the chickens eat, these eggs often have richer, yellower yolks and creamier whites. And you'll want them as farm-fresh as possible, so check the dates on the packages.

The raw question

For excellent eggnog, cooked eggs — no matter how gently cooked — simply don't fly. This includes the cartons of liquid egg and pasteurized eggs. Cooking creates eggnog that is too thick, and pasteurized eggs tend to lack flavor.

Real eggnog calls for raw eggs. There is an urban legend that adding alcohol kills off any potential bacteria, but this isn't true. Well, it's possible, but it would take an awful lot of alcohol.

For this reason, the USDA recommends that people with weaker immune systems, including the very young and very old, avoid raw eggs, which can contain salmonella.

That doesn't mean you necessarily are living on the wild side by imbibing. According to the American Egg Board, on average, only one of every 20,000 eggs nationally might contain salmonella. That's a lot of eggnog.

The dairy

The dairy gives eggnog body, so it's important to strike a good balance between milk and cream, says beverage writer and mixologist Wondrich. Get the ratio wrong and you end up with a drink that's either watery or cloying. Neither is good.

We found that a 3-to-1 ratio of whole milk to heavy cream created an eggnog with a velvety texture without being too fatty.

And you need to accept that this is not the place to cut fat for the holidays.

The spices

Eggnog is about celebrating the flavor of fresh eggs, so it's important that any other flavors accentuate that, rather than compete with it. And with traditional eggnog spices, the most common of which is nutmeg, it's easy to overdo it.

"I like to be fairly restrained in the spices, because if you use too much, that's all you taste," Wondrich says.

As for fresh versus already ground, he is adamant about grating your own. "Use fresh nutmeg, because the jars of grated nutmeg taste like powdered cardboard," he says. "They have no flavor. The aroma is gone."

The hard stuff

Alcohol isn't essential, but it is traditional. When spiking eggnog, Wondrich advises keeping things brown.

"The white liquors are made for refreshment, not for mellowness or richness," he says. "You want something that is pretty plush on its own."

Rum, brandy and bourbon are traditional, but splurging for cognac will give the eggnog a smoother and richer flavor.

The method

To assemble the eggnog, the yolks and whites of the eggs are separated and beaten, then folded and whisked together. A hand whisk will work in a pinch, but an electric hand mixer is best.

Going electric not only speeds up the process and spares you a sore arm, but it adds better body to the yolks, producing a creamier eggnog. It also is important to not beat the whites until just before serving. Otherwise, they will deflate.

The rest of the eggnog can be assembled ahead of time.

Recipe

Best eggnog

6 eggs

1/2 cup granulated sugar

3 ounces good-quality bourbon (such as Maker's Mark)

3 ounces sherry

3 cups whole milk

1 cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, plus a pinch to garnish

Chill a large bowl in the freezer for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, separate the egg yolks and whites. Refrigerate the whites.

Once the bowl has chilled, add egg yolks and use an electric hand mixer to beat for several seconds. Add sugar and continue mixing until sugar is dissolved and yolks have turned light yellow, about 1 to 2 minutes.

Add bourbon and sherry, then beat until well mixed. Add milk, cream and nutmeg, then beat until well mixed. Place bowl in refrigerator until ready to serve.

Just before serving, place egg whites in a second large bowl and use an electric mixer to beat them until they form stiff peaks.

Use a silicone spatula to gently fold the egg whites into the yolk mixture. Finish by gently whisking the eggnog to smooth the texture. Serve immediately.

Makes 10 servings

By Pervaiz Shallwani - Associated Press