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> You should consider the cost of the raw material vs the benefit(s).

> There are many " natural " ingredients that have anti-inflammatory

> properties. They became very popular when AHA products were the

rage.

> These ingredients were used to reduce the stinging.

> Much of the stuff works, you just have be careful with your claims

and

> your pocketbook/wallet.

Hmm, pocketbook. Oh yeah. I forgot about that. Rats. Once again,

reality bites me in the butt.

Oh, well, on to the next cool product.

I know I'm the new kid on the block (no chemistry background 'ceptin'

what I learned here - only making soap & toiletries 6 years) but I

was also looking at (are you ready Mr. Smarty-Pants Maurice!)cetearyl

olivate/sorbitan olivate as an O/W vegetable-based PEG-free self-

emulsifier that comes in flake form. The company states that as a

self-emusifying system, cetearyl olivate/sorbitan olivate may act

both as an emulsifier and as the only source of fats when added to

water. (Ok, now . . . Name That Tune! oh, I mean Product!)

My question is . . . is this really as natural as claimed and is it

really as easy to use as they say? I mean, they have a formula for

makeup remover that is 15% this product, 10% glycerin, 2% camomile

Extract and the rest water. (of course, preserve & fragrance as

needed) A sample is on the way but I though I'd ask you.

Rishar

BTW - I think I saw the word " economical " somewhere in this brochure.

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>I know I'm the new kid on the block (no chemistry background 'ceptin'

>what I learned here - only making soap & toiletries 6 years) but I

>was also looking at (are you ready Mr. Smarty-Pants Maurice!)cetearyl

>olivate/sorbitan olivate as an O/W vegetable-based PEG-free self-

>emulsifier that comes in flake form. The company states that as a

>self-emusifying system, cetearyl olivate/sorbitan olivate may act

>both as an emulsifier and as the only source of fats when added to

>water. (Ok, now . . . Name That Tune! oh, I mean Product!)

>

>My question is . . . is this really as natural as claimed and is it

>really as easy to use as they say?ÿ I mean, they have a formula for

>makeup remover that is 15% this product, 10% glycerin, 2% camomile

>Extract and the rest water. (of course, preserve & fragrance as

>needed) A sample is on the way but I though I'd ask you.

>

> Rishar

>

>BTW - I think I saw the word " economical " somewhere in this brochure.

I have no idea what the trade name for cetearyl olivate/sorbitan

olivate is. It is interesting to note that " cetearyl olivate " does not

appear in the CTFA dictionary, on the EU INCI website or in the EU

Inventory First Update. Must be very new.

Sounds like something that might be interesting and may be perfect for

the homecrafter but I would think twice about using this blend in a

formula destined for national distribution because it is so unique.

And, if I had to guess, I'd say it's from Europe.

When possible, I like to use raw materials that can be alternate

sourced. It's a terrible thing to be in a back order situation because

the raw material is lost, late, contaminated etc. You always need

alternatives when the unexpected happens.

The term " natural " is not defined in the cosmetic business. Some

people believe that anything that's provided by Mother Earth is

Natural, even Texas crude.

I would consider " cetearyl olivate " and " sorbitan olivate " as being

naturally derived ingredients.

Maurice

------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

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Its so new the following article only just introduces it:

Milan, Italy-based B & T's latest breakthrough is esters that work as

emollients but also function as emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers, and co-

surfactants. Since these esters are directly derived from olive oil

(a lipid showing high compatibility with human skin), they exhibit

many desirable properties, such as emolliency and hydration.

New ingredients include Olivem 700 (INCI: PEG-4 Olivate), which can

be used as an o/w emulsifier, and Olivem 900 (INCI: Sorbitan

Olivate), which can be used as a w/o emulsifier. Olivem 300 (INCI:

Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters) can be used as an emollient, a co-emulsifier

in creams and lotions, or as a co-surfactant or refatting agent in

cleansing products.

B & T currently is working on a new (o/w) emulsifier that is derived

from olive oil esterified with Cetearyl Alcohol and Sorbitol,

according to company spokesperson Cristina Schubert.

Dave E

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