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Haven't looked into it too far as yet, but to get me started does

anyone know of a way of stabilising vitamin C in a lotion. Or is

there a supplier of a stabilised version of vitamin C out there? I

seem to remember coming across this a while ago.

Thanks

Dave E

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>Haven't looked into it too far as yet, but to get me started does

>anyone know of a way of stabilising vitamin C in a lotion. Or is

>there a supplier of a stabilised version of vitamin C out there? I

>seem to remember coming across this a while ago.

I've used Nikkol VC-PMG (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate). There is a lot

of good support literature available.

Maurice.

------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

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>I've used Nikkol VC-PMG (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate).ÿ There is a lot

>of good support literature available.

-------------------------

Postadministration protective effect of magnesium-L-ascorbyl-phosphate on the

development of UVB-induced cutaneous damage in

mice.

Kobayashi S, Takehana M, Kanke M, Itoh S, Ogata E.

Photochem Photobiol. 1998 Jun;67(6):669-75.

Kyoritsu College of Pharmacy, Tokyo, Japan. kobayashi-sz@...

The effects of stable vitamin C, magnesium-L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate (MAP),

administered after acute and chronic exposure to UVB

irradiation were investigated using hairless mice. Intraperitoneal

administration of 100 mg/kg of MAP immediately after acute exposure

to 15 kJ/m2 of UVB significantly prevented increases of UVB-induced lipid

peroxidation in skin and sialic acid in serum, an

inflammation marker. Administration of 50 mg/kg of MAP immediately after each

exposure significantly delayed skin tumor formation

and hyperplasia induced by chronic exposure to 2 kJ/m2 of UVB. Intraperitoneal

administration of 200 mg/kg of MAP produced an

increase in ascorbic acid (As) levels in the serum, liver and skin within 15

min. Serum As levels quickly returned to normal, but

hepatic and cutaneous levels remained elevated before returning to normal after

24 h, suggesting that MAP was converted to As in the

serum and in those tissues. Ultraviolet B-induced hydroxyl radical generation in

murine skin homogenates was scavenged by As-Na

addition, which was directly detected by electron spin resonance (ESR). These

results suggest that postadministration of MAP

delays progression of skin damage induced by UVB irradiation. It is presumed

that MAP, once converted to As, exhibits such

inhibitory effects by scavenging hydroxyl and lipid radicals generated as a

direct or indirect result of UVB exposure.

-------------------------

Stability of vitamin C derivatives in solution and topical formulations.

Austria R, Semenzato A, Bettero A.

J Pharm Biomed Anal. 1997 Mar;15(6):795-801.

Universita di Padova, Dipartimento di Scienze Farmaceutiche, Italy.

The stability of ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate and magnesium ascorbyl

phosphate (VC-PMG) in both standard solutions and

topical formulations was investigated by direct RP-HPLC analysis after sample

dilution with a suitable aqueous-organic solvent

mixture. The results showed that, whereas the two vitamin C derivatives were

more stable than ascorbic acid, the ascorbyl esters

showed significant differences. Esterification with palmitic acid in 6 position

did not prevent hydrolysis of the molecule, either in

solution or in emulsion; only the special preparation of products with high

viscoelastic properties was able to reduce the typical

behaviour of this compound. Conversely, the introduction of the phosphoric group

in 2 position protected the molecule from break-up of

the enediol system, confirming VC-PMG as a very stable derivative of vitamin C

that may be easily used in various types of cosmetic

products.

-------------------------

Protective effect of magnesium-L-ascorbyl-2 phosphate against skin damage

induced by UVB irradiation.

Kobayashi S, Takehana M, Itoh S, Ogata E.

Photochem Photobiol. 1996 Jul;64(1):224-8.

Kyoritsu College of Pharmacy, Tokyo, Japan.

The protective effect of magnesium-L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate (MAP) on cutaneous

photodamage such as lipid peroxidation and

inflammation induced by ultraviolet B (UVB) exposure (290-320 nm, max. 312 nm)

was investigated using hairless mice. When MAP

was administered intraperitoneally to mice at a dose of 100 mg of ascorbic acid

(AS) per kg body weight base immediately before

irradiation (15 kj/m2), the expected increases in thiobarbituric acid reactive

substance (TBARS) formation in skin and serum sialic

acid, indices of lipid peroxidation and inflammatory reaction, respectively,

were significantly reduced. However, the expected decrease

in the level of cutaneous AS was unchanged. Similar results were observed for

animals given 100 mg of AS-Na per kg body weight

before UVB irradiation. When MAP was administered intracutaneously immediately

before irradiation, the expected UVB-induced

increases in TBARS and sialic acid were again significantly prevented. Ascorbic

acid-Na had a less protective effect than

intracutaneous MAP administration. The cutaneous AS level was significantly

higher in the MAP-treated mice than in the controls,

and the UVB-induced decrease in tissue AS was prevented by intracutaneous MAP

administration. These results suggest that MAP

protects against UVB irradiation-induced lipid peroxidation and inflammation in

cutaneous tissue, regardless of the drug administration

route. We found, in an in vitro experiment, that MAP was converted to AS as it

crossed the epidermis, but that AS-Na did not pass

through the epidermis. Furthermore, MAP was also converted to AS in serum. These

results suggest that the protective effect of MAP

on UVB-induced cutaneous damage is due to conversion of MAP to AS.

-------------------------

Inhibitory effect of magnesium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate (VC-PMG) on melanogenesis

in vitro and in vivo.

Kameyama K, Sakai C, Kondoh S, Yonemoto K, Nishiyama S, Tagawa M, Murata

T, Ohnuma T, Quigley J, Dorsky A, Bucks

D, Blanock K.

J Am Acad Dermatol. 1996 Jan;34(1):29-33.

Department of Dermatology, Kitasato University School of Medicine, Sagamihara,

Japan.

BACKGROUND: An inhibitory effect of ascorbic acid (AsA) on melanogenesis has

been described. However, AsA is quickly oxidized

and decomposed in aqueous solution and thus is not generally useful as a

depigmenting agent.

OBJECTIVE: Our purpose was to examine the effect on pigmentation of

magnesium-L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate (VC-PMG), a stable

derivative of AsA.

METHODS: Percutaneous absorption of VC-PMG was examined in dermatomed human

skin, and its effect on melanin production by

mammalian tyrosinase and human melanoma cells in culture was also measured. A

10% VC-PMG cream was applied to the

patients.

RESULTS: VC-PMG suppressed melanin formation by tyrosinase and melanoma cells.

In situ experiments demonstrated that

VC-PMG cream was absorbed into the epidermis and that 1.6% remained 48 hours

after application. The lightening effect was

significant in 19 of 34 patients with chloasma or senile freckles and in 3 of 25

patients with normal skin.

CONCLUSION: VC-PMG is effective in reducing skin hyperpigmentation in some

patients.

-------------------------

Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and

magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphate.

Geesin JC, Gordon JS, Berg RA.

Skin Pharmacol. 1993;6(1):65-71.

Department of Biochemistry, University of Medicine and Dentistry of New Jersey,

Wood Medical School, Piscataway

08854.

Ascorbic acid has been shown to stimulate collagen synthesis in dermal

fibroblasts by increasing the rate of transcription of collagen

genes. Experiments involving the use of ascorbic acid require daily

supplementation due to the instability of the molecule in aqueous

solutions. In order to provide a more stable alternative to ascorbic acid, two

salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphate, having a greater chemical

stability than ascorbic acid, were tested for their ability to stimulate

collagen synthesis in monolayer fibroblast cultures. The

concentration and time dependence of their activities were compared with

ascorbic acid. The magnesium salt of ascorbyl-2-phosphate

was found to be equivalent to ascorbic acid in stimulating collagen synthesis in

these assays, while the sodium salt required at least

a tenfold greater concentration to produce the same effect as ascorbic acid.

Solutions of either ascorbic acid or the

ascorbyl-2-phosphate analogs (at 10 mM) in phosphate-buffered saline (PBS) were

relatively stable as shown by their decay rates and

their ability to stimulate collagen synthesis even after nine days in solution

prior to testing their effects on cultured cells. Ascorbic

acid was unstable at neutral pH compared to solutions of either sodium or

magnesium ascorbyl-2-phosphate. These data support the

use of magnesium ascorbyl-2-phosphate in experiments where stability of ascorbic

acid is a concern, e.g. in long-term cultures or in

in vivo studies.

-------------------------

------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

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>I've used Nikkol VC-PMG (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate).

Nikkol VC-PMG is sold by Nikko Chemicals. According to the Nikko website

<http://www.nikkol.co.jp/english/index_e.html>, their

products are distributed by

JAN DEKKER (UK) Ltd.

Suite 3, Hillbrow House, Linden Dirve

Liss. Hampshire GU33 7RJ United Kingdom

Tel: 44 1730 89 55 11 / Fax: 44 1730 89 51 11

E-mail: sales@...

Maurice

------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

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> >I've used Nikkol VC-PMG (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate).

>

> Nikkol VC-PMG is sold by Nikko Chemicals. According to the Nikko

website <http://www.nikkol.co.jp/english/index_e.html>, their

> products are distributed by

>

> JAN DEKKER (UK) Ltd.

> Suite 3, Hillbrow House, Linden Dirve

> Liss. Hampshire GU33 7RJ United Kingdom

> Tel: 44 1730 89 55 11 / Fax: 44 1730 89 51 11

> E-mail: sales@j...

>

Superb. I'll be on to Leanne at Jan Dekker on Monday. Just been the

shops and seen Garnier use ascorbyl glucoside; was going to look into

this but Jan Dekker is now the preferred option. I just didn't want

to use vit c in liposome form.

Cheers Maurice.

Dave E

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,

You should also note that EM Industries also sells Mag Ascorbyl Phosphate. I

have that EM's price is less than Nikkol in the USA. Perhaps it is that

Nikkol distributor wants more $$ than EM for the same product.

Young

KY Labs

Innovators of Fine Personal Care Products

www.kylabs.com

Re: Vitamin C

> >I've used Nikkol VC-PMG (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate).

>

> Nikkol VC-PMG is sold by Nikko Chemicals. According to the Nikko

website <http://www.nikkol.co.jp/english/index_e.html>, their

> products are distributed by

>

> JAN DEKKER (UK) Ltd.

> Suite 3, Hillbrow House, Linden Dirve

> Liss. Hampshire GU33 7RJ United Kingdom

> Tel: 44 1730 89 55 11 / Fax: 44 1730 89 51 11

> E-mail: sales@j...

>

Superb. I'll be on to Leanne at Jan Dekker on Monday. Just been the

shops and seen Garnier use ascorbyl glucoside; was going to look into

this but Jan Dekker is now the preferred option. I just didn't want

to use vit c in liposome form.

Cheers Maurice.

Dave E

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In a message dated 5/25/02 3:32:56 AM Pacific Daylight Time,

david@... writes:

> Haven't looked into it too far as yet, but to get me started does

> anyone know of a way of stabilising vitamin C in a lotion. Or is

> there a supplier of a stabilised version of vitamin C out there? I

> seem to remember coming across this a while ago.

>

> Thanks

>

> Dave E

>

>

Hi Dave,

A chemist at Roche mentioned a product that I think is called StaC-----not

sure if this is the correct spelling. But it is supposted to be stable for

use in formulations. He is sending me some samples and literature.

Angie

The Herbarie...Visit us at:  http://www.theherbarie.com for Body Care

Products and Bulk Ingredients...Botanical Extracts and Proteins, Ultra-Mild

Surfactant Blends, Conditioning Emulsifiers.

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>A chemist at Roche mentioned a product that I think is called StaC-----not

>sure if this is the correct spelling.ÿ But it is supposted to be stable for

>use in formulations.ÿ He is sending me some samples and literature.

STAY-C 50 (INCI = Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate)

CAS NO.: 66170-10-3

Other names:

L-Ascorbic Acid, 2-(Dihydrogen Phosphate), Trisodium Salt

Sodium L-Ascorbyl-2-Phosphate

Empirical Formula: C6H6O9P - 3Na

------------

Stability of ascorbyl palmitate in topical microemulsions.

Spiclin P, Gasperlin M, Kmetec V.

Int J Pharm. 2001 Jul 17;222(2):271-9.

Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Ljubljana, Askerceva 7, 1000,

Ljubljana, Slovenia.

Ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate are derivatives of

ascorbic acid, which differ in stability and hydro-lipophilic

properties. They are widely used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical

preparations. In the present work the stability of both derivatives was

studied in microemulsions for topical use as carrier systems. The

microemulsions were of both o/w and w/o types and composed of the same

ingredients. The stability of the less stable derivative ascorbyl

palmitate was tested under different conditions to evaluate the

influence of initial concentration, location in microemulsion,

dissolved oxygen and storage conditions. High concentrations of

ascorbyl palmitate reduced the extent of its degradation. The location

of ascorbyl palmitate in the microemulsion and oxygen dissolved in the

system together significantly influence the stability of the compound.

Light accelerated the degradation of ascorbyl palmitate. In contrast,

sodium ascorbyl phosphate was stable in both types of microemulsions.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is shown to be convenient as an active

ingredient in topical preparations. In the case of ascorbyl palmitate,

long-term stability in selected microemulsions was not adequate. To

formulate an optimal carrier system for this ingredient other factors

influencing the stability have to be considered.

------------

Protective effects of sodium-L-ascorbyl-2 phosphate on the development

of UVB-induced damage in cultured mouse skin.

Nayama S, Takehana M, Kanke M, Itoh S, Ogata E, Kobayashi S.

Biol Pharm Bull. 1999 Dec;22(12):1301-5.

Kyoritsu College of Pharmacy, Tokyo, Japan.

The protective effect of sodium-L-ascorbyl-2 phosphate (As-2P), a

stable form of ascorbic acid (AsA), against photodamage induced by a

single dose of UVB exposure (290-320 nm, Max 312 nm) was investigated

using cultured mouse skin. When the cultured skin was treated with

various As-2P concentrations, the cutaneous AsA level increased in

proportion to the As-2P concentration. After 3 h of incubation, the AsA

level in the cultured skin treated with 2, 20 and 100 mM As-2P

increased 1.03-, 2.17- and 6.27-fold, respectively, compared with that

of the control skin. These results suggest that As-2P was transported

into the cultured mouse skin where it was converted to AsA. After 3 h,

the cutaneous AsA level in irradiated (20 kJ/m2) skin was depleted to a

half of that in the control skin. However, the level in skin pretreated

with 20 mM As-2P was maintained within normal limits, even after 24 h.

Pretreatment with 20 mM As-2P significantly prevented such photodamage

as sunburn cell formation, DNA fragmentation and lipid peroxidation,

which were caused by a single dose of UVB irradiation. These results

suggest that the protective effect of 20 mM As-2P on UVB-induced

cutaneous damage is due to the maintenance of a normal As level by

conversion of As-2P to As in skin tissue.

------------

Protective effects of sodium-L-ascorbyl-2 phosphate on the development

of UVB-induced damage in cultured mouse skin.

Nayama S, Takehana M, Kanke M, Itoh S, Ogata E, Kobayashi S.

Biol Pharm Bull. 1999 Dec;22(12):1301-5.

Kyoritsu College of Pharmacy, Tokyo, Japan.

The protective effect of sodium-L-ascorbyl-2 phosphate (As-2P), a

stable form of ascorbic acid (AsA), against photodamage induced by a

single dose of UVB exposure (290-320 nm, Max 312 nm) was investigated

using cultured mouse skin. When the cultured skin was treated with

various As-2P concentrations, the cutaneous AsA level increased in

proportion to the As-2P concentration. After 3 h of incubation, the AsA

level in the cultured skin treated with 2, 20 and 100 mM As-2P

increased 1.03-, 2.17- and 6.27-fold, respectively, compared with that

of the control skin. These results suggest that As-2P was transported

into the cultured mouse skin where it was converted to AsA. After 3 h,

the cutaneous AsA level in irradiated (20 kJ/m2) skin was depleted to a

half of that in the control skin. However, the level in skin pretreated

with 20 mM As-2P was maintained within normal limits, even after 24 h.

Pretreatment with 20 mM As-2P significantly prevented such photodamage

as sunburn cell formation, DNA fragmentation and lipid peroxidation,

which were caused by a single dose of UVB irradiation. These results

suggest that the protective effect of 20 mM As-2P on UVB-induced

cutaneous damage is due to the maintenance of a normal As level by

conversion of As-2P to As in skin tissue.

------------

------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

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