Guest guest Posted January 4, 2007 Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 Carl--I think a lot of us are interested in knowing what we can take from our houses. Does mold contaminate silverware, bone china, metal teapots, cookware, etc.? I know not to take any " soft goods. " How do we clean the small hard goods? Would running them through the dishwasher if the water heats to level of sterilization help? Jane Felice Bellantoni <anupath14@...> wrote: Carl, Thank you so much for you letter. No, it was not easy finding this place. Getting sicker along the way and, of course, frustrated. But, I knew, I couldn't give up. I plan on sleeping there beginning Friday. Do you suggest not coming back to " moldy house " at all after that? I will still have my old car which is probably contaminated. Could possibly have someone clean it. Could I take some dishes and silverware? coffeepot? I MUST have my caffeine! Thanks again! Happy New Year to you too! Felice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 4, 2007 Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 Jane, I've found household ammonia works well for non-porous items. Just use gloves and ventilate well. Don't dilute the already diluted (i.e. 'household') ammonia below 50% because then it won't destroy all of the mycotoxins. A 1% solution of household bleach is also supposed to work. (This is the strength that Tilex is - again, don't dilute below 1% sodium hydroxide) WASH IT OFF COMPLETELY AFTER SCRUBBING THOROUGHLY..VENTILATE WELL dried up bleach on things or the varpor this STRING bleach produces can damage your eyes, lungs, etc. This is from an authoritative source (military biowarfare research on decontaminating areas contaminated by military use of trichothecene mycotoxins, the kind found in stachybotrys, fusarium, etc.) Jane, I don't think running them through the dishwasher will help as much as it would need to because the greasy film that contains the mycotoxins is not water soluble.. although the mechanical motion of the soap and the spray at heat might work somewhat on nonporous items to remove it. But its been my experience that simply washing nonporous items with soapy hot water was not as effective as I needed it to be. Because of the aforementioned extremely durable and very difficult to clean off greasy film. For example, glass items.. they might look clean but they were still reactive to me after soap and water washings.. (they still made me feel ill..) Ammonia was what did it. (Windex, even..) On 1/4/07, jane mosher <janeannmosher@...> wrote: > > Carl--I think a lot of us are interested in knowing what we can take > from our houses. Does mold contaminate silverware, bone china, metal > teapots, cookware, etc.? I know not to take any " soft goods. " How do we > clean the small hard goods? Would running them through the dishwasher if the > water heats to level of sterilization help? Jane > > Felice Bellantoni <anupath14@... <anupath14%40gmail.com>> wrote: > Carl, > Thank you so much for you letter. No, it was not easy finding this place. > Getting sicker along the way and, of course, frustrated. But, I knew, I > couldn't give up. I plan on sleeping there beginning Friday. Do you > suggest > not coming back to " moldy house " at all after that? I will still have my > old > car which is probably contaminated. Could possibly have someone clean it. > Could I take some dishes and silverware? coffeepot? I MUST have my > caffeine! Thanks again! Happy New Year to you too! Felice > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 4, 2007 Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 I worked with a pathologist that specializes in tricothecene research and ammonia is what he said should remove tricothecenes but get the residue of ammonia solution off by rubbing and rinsing well as residue when dried could deposit toxins back onto surface. This seems to match information I have gotten also. --- In , LiveSimply <quackadillian@...> wrote: > > Jane, > > I've found household ammonia works well for non-porous items. Just use > gloves and ventilate well. Don't dilute the already diluted > (i.e. 'household') ammonia below 50% because then it won't destroy all of > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 4, 2007 Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 I used ammonia and dawn dish soap in hot water for non-porus items, did it outside in a large tub. for cloths, blankets,ect. the ammonia only temperarly nutralizes trichothecenes so you have to continue useing it regularly but after awhile between all the washings it washes out to the point that you don't have to use it so often.your nose well tell you. I like useing it in my laundry about once a month now, cleans better than deterant. > > > > Jane, > > > > I've found household ammonia works well for non-porous items. Just > use > > gloves and ventilate well. Don't dilute the already diluted > > (i.e. 'household') ammonia below 50% because then it won't destroy > all of > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 4, 2007 Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 I can't use those because of my chemical sensitivity--I am actually allergic to chlorine and never have tolerated ammonia. So I guess it will have to peroxide, borax, soda, etc ? LiveSimply <quackadillian@...> wrote: Jane, I've found household ammonia works well for non-porous items. Just use gloves and ventilate well. Don't dilute the already diluted (i.e. 'household') ammonia below 50% because then it won't destroy all of the mycotoxins. A 1% solution of household bleach is also supposed to work. (This is the strength that Tilex is - again, don't dilute below 1% sodium hydroxide) WASH IT OFF COMPLETELY AFTER SCRUBBING THOROUGHLY..VENTILATE WELL dried up bleach on things or the varpor this STRING bleach produces can damage your eyes, lungs, etc. This is from an authoritative source (military biowarfare research on decontaminating areas contaminated by military use of trichothecene mycotoxins, the kind found in stachybotrys, fusarium, etc.) Jane, I don't think running them through the dishwasher will help as much as it would need to because the greasy film that contains the mycotoxins is not water soluble.. although the mechanical motion of the soap and the spray at heat might work somewhat on nonporous items to remove it. But its been my experience that simply washing nonporous items with soapy hot water was not as effective as I needed it to be. Because of the aforementioned extremely durable and very difficult to clean off greasy film. For example, glass items.. they might look clean but they were still reactive to me after soap and water washings.. (they still made me feel ill..) Ammonia was what did it. (Windex, even..) On 1/4/07, jane mosher <janeannmosher@...> wrote: > > Carl--I think a lot of us are interested in knowing what we can take > from our houses. Does mold contaminate silverware, bone china, metal > teapots, cookware, etc.? I know not to take any " soft goods. " How do we > clean the small hard goods? Would running them through the dishwasher if the > water heats to level of sterilization help? Jane > > Felice Bellantoni <anupath14@... <anupath14%40gmail.com>> wrote: > Carl, > Thank you so much for you letter. No, it was not easy finding this place. > Getting sicker along the way and, of course, frustrated. But, I knew, I > couldn't give up. I plan on sleeping there beginning Friday. Do you > suggest > not coming back to " moldy house " at all after that? I will still have my > old > car which is probably contaminated. Could possibly have someone clean it. > Could I take some dishes and silverware? coffeepot? I MUST have my > caffeine! Thanks again! Happy New Year to you too! Felice > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 4, 2007 Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 ps,don't sniff the ammonia while your pouring it in.put wet washrag over nose and mouth if you have problem being around ammonia and don't do it at your house.even have a friend do it for you somewhere else.ammonia smell is gone when dry. > > > > > > Jane, > > > > > > I've found household ammonia works well for non-porous items. > Just > > use > > > gloves and ventilate well. Don't dilute the already diluted > > > (i.e. 'household') ammonia below 50% because then it won't > destroy > > all of > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 4, 2007 Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 Jeanine, doesn't Dawn produce a lot of bubbles for laundry machine? I know it's a good degreaser, which should be good for toxins since they are sticky. Which reminds me...has anyone tried cleaners like Goo- Gone, or Krud Kutter -which I think is better than Goo Gone-? Krud Kutter will removed dried on latex paint for example. So strong you need to be careful what you clean with it. I was trying to get something sticking to aluminum siding and it took the paint off of spot. > > I used ammonia and dawn dish soap in hot water for non-porus items, > did it outside in a large Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 4, 2007 Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 Another thing that has amazine cleaning properties for some substances is just plain oil. I wonder if anyone has tried cleaning with plain oil? Probably. Anyway learned that when my cat got a sticky trap stuck to his coat. The sticky mess came off of her coat by rubbing her down with oil and then rubbed the sticky stuff off of myself with oil also. I couldn't get it off with anything else. Directions on those sticky traps say to use the oil but I tried other things before I resorted to reading the directions. > > I used ammonia and dawn dish soap in hot water for non-porus items, > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 4, 2007 Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 I did use it a couple of times in the laundry with ammonia,but just a tiny amount,about a teaspoon.had no problems with it. > > > > I used ammonia and dawn dish soap in hot water for non-porus items, > > did it outside in a large > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 4, 2007 Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 The ammonia might keep the sudsing down. > > I did use it a couple of times in the laundry with ammonia,but just a > tiny amount,about a teaspoon.had no problems with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 5, 2007 Report Share Posted January 5, 2007 Group, Would you consider changing the Subject line from my name to the real subject, how to degrease or detoxify or properly use ammonia? Keeping my name on the subject line makes me look sound like I'm a de- greaser, which would be fighting words to some according to the use of the term " greaser " back in the days of the movie Grease! <grin> Carl Grimes Healthy Habitats LLC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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