Re: May - Macrofungi & other things

June 9, 2007

Barb,

Stachybotrys chartarum is a " microfungus " and is NOT a wood decaying

organism. In order to decay wood, a fungus must have several enzymes

to break down different forms of cellulose and/or lignin, the other

structural component of wood. Many microfungi have enzymes that can

break down some forms of cellulose and other similar structural

components but cannot rot wood (with a few exceptions, such as

Chaetomium globosum which causes soft rot).

Most of the molds (or mildews) that peoople see in homes are

microgungi and even though they may be on the surface of paper or

wood they are not necessarily feeding on the cellulose present. There

is a significant amount of starch in paper and other paper products

and starch is much easier for fungi to digest than cellulose.There

are even starch deposits in natural wood.

You do not need to use antifungal paint in the attic and I would not

recommend it since some people react to the antimicrobial paints. In

addition, when spray painting bare wood, most contractors use far

more paint than needed, causing a very long time for off-gassing.

I recommend a LIGHT coat of any acceptable (to you) paint only to

seal in any residual surface allergens. AFM makes low VOC paints. For

folks who are very chemically sensitive, slightly diluted Elmer's

glue can be used. It dries into a fairly clear, odorless film.If you

remove insulation from the floor, the back of the ceiling drywall

along with the floor framing wood (joists) should all be lightly

sealed.

It's not a bad idea to LIGHTLY spray paint the roof sheathing and

rafters as this will seal in some allergens and reduce the

availability of wood surface nutrients. Having painted attic surfaces

really transforms the space. The need for wood the breathe is a bit

of a myth.

Most attics will have some mold on the roof sheathing somewhere and

when new roofing is installed, the wood is disturbed and spores may

become airborne. The sealant minimizes the amount of mold that can be

aerosolized.

Basement framing - floor joists and subflooring - should be sealed

for the same reasons.

For folks who are chemically sensitive and allergic to

mold, " painting " the inside of the sink base cabinet with slightly

diluted Elmer's makes a quick, odorless fix for an interior that has

been damaged by some old leaks.(You can even use Elmer's on damaged

hair-plaster ceilings to seal the plaster.)

May

May Indoor Air Investigations LLC

www.mayindoorair.com

www.myhouseiskillingme.com

>

> Jeff,> I'm reading again your book " The Mold Survivor

> Guide " and wonder what you mean by macrofungi?

> You said mold like Cladosporum was microfungi,

> mainly remaining of the surface of wood but

> macrofungi can do structural damage to wood. Is

> macrofungi Stachybotras?

> Also I'm doing pretty much exactly as you suggest

> in your book regarding removing old attic

> insulation, having it hepa vaccumed and then

> spray painted. I have a bid from a

> mold/asbestos/lead remediator to do it under

> containment. Not sure it is necessary but taking

> the extra precaution. I did not mention spray

> painting to remediator but he put it in bid to

> spray paint entire attic, floor and ceiling with

> antimicrobial paint. I have antimicrobial paint

> in my bathroom but it stays cool in there and is

> a hard enamel. However, I don't think I want

> that much paint, especially an antifungal paint

> in attic since gets so very hot, concerned about

> fumes, etc. Also I think roof sheathing maybe

> should breath a little more than painting it

> would allow. I don't know but anyway, just

> painting floor as you discuss in book sounds

> better to me. Would a low VOC paint of any kind

> work okay?

>

June 9, 2007

The attic wood is in pretty good condition except for one beam about

24 ft long and a little on lower part of underside of roof as you

describe in one spot I see. Otherwise considering house was built

in 1924 it is amazing to me that the wood grain is visible on most

of the wood..they used real nice wood back then, not plywood or

particle board. Anyway, perhaps I could use a clear sealer and you

say the Elmers dries clear. One can actually spray that stuff.

Interesting. I might try it on small scale so I can see what it

looks like.

Besides mold spores from the beam and small amount from underside of

roof, particles from chimney brick that softened and crumbled into

dust piles around chimney, as well as lots of dust could be causing

the choking air symptom in house now in this heat. It seems worse

than when I left last summer but perhaps I just had gotten used to

it. If it was like this last year, it's no wonder I felt so sick.

>

> For folks who are chemically sensitive and allergic to

> mold, " painting " the inside of the sink base cabinet with slightly

> diluted Elmer's makes a quick, odorless fix for an interior that

has

> been damaged by some old leaks.(You can even use Elmer's on

damaged

> hair-plaster ceilings to seal the plaster.)

>

June 10, 2007

Jeff,

If I am understanding this correctly, are you differentiating wood decaying

fungi from molds that are known to penetrate deep into wood such as Stachy

but do not cause the wood to rot such as with Chaetomium?

In a message dated 6/9/2007 8:49:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,

jeff@... writes: