Guest guest Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 Our dehumidifier is brand new from Basement Systems and seems to be doing a great job! _http://www.basementsystems.com/dehumidifier/_ (http://www.basementsystems.com/dehumidifier/) What do you mean by avoiding condensation on exterior surfaces? What should we keep the humidity level at during the winter months? Thanks for your help, Sue .. 50%RH is a good summer number with normal temperature concrete flow and masonary walls. During winter months, avoid any condesation on the exterior surfaces. Usually this <30% during the extreme cold in Northern U.S. You must have a new dehumidifier not a humidifier, right. If your meter is right, it's an impressive unit. Ken > > Can anyone tell me what the ideal humidity level should be in your basement > during the summer and winter.We have a new humidifier air filter unit which we > can adjust right now it varies between 39 to 43%.Is that too dry or should > it be higher? > Thanks very much, > Sue > > > > ************ ******** ******** ************<WBR>*********<WBR> _http://www.aol.http_ (http://www.aol.com./) > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 50%RH is a good summer number with normal temperature concrete flow and masonary walls. During winter months, avoid any condesation on the exterior surfaces. Usually this <30% during the extreme cold in Northern U.S. You must have a new dehumidifier not a humidifier, right. If your meter is right, it's an impressive unit. Ken > > Can anyone tell me what the ideal humidity level should be in your basement > during the summer and winter.We have a new humidifier air filter unit which we > can adjust right now it varies between 39 to 43%.Is that too dry or should > it be higher? > Thanks very much, > Sue > > > > ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 6, 2007 Report Share Posted July 6, 2007 Set your dehumdifier to maintain <50%RH during the summer. During the winter, the dehumidifier will not operate. Condensation on the insides of windows or exterior walls is an indication of excess moisture. Reducing winter humidity is best accomplished by increasing fresh air ventilation, not by operating the dehumidifier. During the winter, normal natural air infiltration usually removes excess moisture. > > > > Can anyone tell me what the ideal humidity level should be in your > basement > > during the summer and winter.We have a new humidifier air filter > unit which we > > can adjust right now it varies between 39 to 43%.Is that too dry > or should > > it be higher? > > Thanks very much, > > Sue > > > > > > > > ************ ******** ******** ************<WBR>*********<WBR> > _http://www.aol.http_ (http://www.aol.com./) > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 6, 2007 Report Share Posted July 6, 2007 Thanks for your help and information!! Sue Set your dehumdifier to maintain <50%RH during the summer. During the winter, the dehumidifier will not operate. Condensation on the insides of windows or exterior walls is an indication of excess moisture. Reducing winter humidity is best accomplished by increasing fresh air ventilation, not by operating the dehumidifier. During the winter, normal natural air infiltration usually removes excess moisture. > > > > Can anyone tell me what the ideal humidity level should be in your > basement > > during the summer and winter.We have a new humidifier air filter > unit which we > > can adjust right now it varies between 39 to 43%.Is that too dry > or should > > it be higher? > > Thanks very much, > > Sue > > > > > > > > ************ ******** ******** ************<WBR>********<<WBR> > __http://www.aol.http:_ (http://www.aol.http_/) (_http://www.aol.http:_ (http://www.aol.com./) ) > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > ************ **** **** ************<WBR>********* _http://www.aol.http_ (http://www.aol.com./) > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 Figuring out what are appropriate humidity levels in winter I think is tough. Your dehumidifier will automatically shut off in winter. Despite fact that I stopped using a humidifier in winter, I still get condensation on windows when it gets very cold. I have a fresh air intake that goes directly into my cold air return ducts that does keep the indoor air very dry. When temperatures get very low though humidity levels of even 28 may cause condensation on windows but too dry is not good for people and house materials. --- In , > > Set your dehumdifier to maintain <50%RH during the summer. During > the winter, the dehumidifier will not operate. > Condensation on the insides of windows or exterior walls is an > indication of excess moisture. Reducing winter humidity is best > accomplished by increasing fresh air ventilation, not by operating > the dehumidifier. During the winter, normal natural air > infiltration usually removes excess moisture. > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 Do you have single, double, or triple paned windows? Some windows are so efficient that it can be VERY cold and they dont have any condensation on their insides at all in subfreezing weather. So wet windows become a thing of the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 8, 2007 Report Share Posted July 8, 2007 Live, I have single pane windows. I know insulated windows would prevent window condensation. However it is I've come to realize indoor air is such a complicated thing. If house is built right, all you need to do is live in it. But if you make changes, you can set yourself up for problems. Perhaps for me moving in to a newish house built by builder with excellent reputation...if I could afford. However even they can make mistakes. However I degressed. I've been told that in older homes these single pane windows perform an 'unintentional' benefit in that they acted as dehumidifiers and the condensation did not hurt health of house. Warm indoor air hit the cold panes and 'dehumidified' air. Storm windows that are behind that were added on were built with tiny drain holes that were meant to allow this water to escape to outside. Trying to 'tighten' up windows I caulked these storms windows but it prevented water from escaping, so I had to go in and pull all the caulk from bottom of storm to open drain holes. Then windows were still too steamy, so this year I'm going to pull all caulk from around rest of window. Maybe air has to be able to flow over entire storm to cut back on steaming. They will steam some none the less but windows were just wet all winter long. Will find out this winter. I solved problem temporarily last winter by opening up double hund windows to allow air from room to circulate against windows and remove excess water by evaporation. I could buy insulated windows. However I've heard air in my old leaky MAY then condense in walls instead of visible window area and you would not know it. Hopefully in well built newer houses with attics and basements sealed off from house this air movement does not occur but in my old house it does NOW. I am looking into sealing house like a new house. I just want to make sure it is right thing as I can't afford to make another mistake with house. I can't afford it with house health or with my own. I have to be careful that repairs I do are necessary and are correct because I need money for health care also. I know everyone here understands that since insurance doesn't cover things that work for me. --- In , LiveSimply <quackadillian@...> wrote: > > Do you have single, double, or triple paned windows? Some windows are so > efficient that it can be VERY cold and they dont have any condensation on > their insides at all in subfreezing weather. > > So wet windows become a thing of the past. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 Wet windows are about cold glass and high indoor dew points. Single pane windows with strom windows on the outside are ok. They as good as double pane without storms. The best is a double inside panes with a storm window. A small amount of outside air leakage to remove moisture traped between storm/inside glass is ok. Excess leakage makes the inside glass cold enough to sweat. So, moderate venting on the outside storm only. Heavy window covers and thermostat night set-back causes much of the window condensation problems. Yes, in extreme cold/wind, a small amount of sweat/frost on the lowest .5 " of inside window during cold evening hours is ok. If enough condensation to drip on frame, lower inside %RH with more fresh air ventilation. Or raise the temperature of the inside glass by encouraging warm air circulation on glass. Raising over night temperatures also warms the glass temperature. Ocassionally <28%RH is ok. Although uncomfortable, it is not healthy or people would be dying in arrid climates. > > Live, I have single pane windows. I know insulated windows would > prevent window condensation. However it is I've come to realize > indoor air is such a complicated thing. If house is built right, all > you need to do is live in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 How do you increase fresh air ventilation during the winter? Sue Set your dehumdifier to maintain <50%RH during the summer. During the winter, the dehumidifier will not operate. Condensation on the insides of windows or exterior walls is an indication of excess moisture. Reducing winter humidity is best accomplished by increasing fresh air ventilation, not by operating the dehumidifier. During the winter, normal natural air infiltration usually removes excess moisture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 You can connect a small duct, perhaps of 4 inch duct directly into ductwork that goes on " supply " side of furnace so it is pulled in and mixes with air that is coming into furnace from house. It is pulled into furnace, where it is heated with other air and distributed through house. Since winter air is pretty clean of mold and dry, it should dry out house air and provide fresh air into house in a way that will not cool house off, since you will heat it first. I jerry-rigged a filter over mine made of Filtrete fabric. You can also let it in with " SmartVent " that Carl provided link to at one time. There is also units made to do this installed professionally, like 'heat recovery units', air exchange units. Some fresh air intakes can be ducted through whole house dehumidifiers so they can stay open in more humid months, but I'm not an expert, or know which is best. > > > How do you increase fresh air ventilation during the winter? > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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