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I did a google search and read a few things on R22 Freon which said

is a Dupont brand name and Puron which I think is 410A the newer,

enviromentally friendly refrigerant. Said something about 2010 freon

not available and 2020 banned for good. Now I'm really wondering

about hvac's b/c said that the coil has to be changed with heatpumps

that use puron. So, going to ask another hvac person does that mean

when my heatpump goes(it's over 13yro) I will have to get a new type

coil to work with it and will it fit my new airhandler b/c I surely

do not want to have to replace the whole airhandler when my heatpump

goes.

I did read about too much refrigerant and can harm the system but

didn't really see just what is the correct amount and if if depends

on the heatpump you have. Also, this hvac guy blew that gas in the

air which is not good b/c destroys the ozone and that is why it's

banned in future. I recall the person that put it in before saying

it was put in by the pounds. I'm going to learn more about that

gauge they use and seems this new guy said 75 and 40 or 41degrees and

I'm not sure what all that means unless pressure and temperature. My

unit has been running fine for a year and a half.

You didn't mention the filters and retricted air and just what that

might do to the system. Seems he said moisture can build up in the

airhandler due to restricted air pressure moving thru but I will have

to hear that again. Also, think he said the unit has to work harder.

One thing he did do is change that part(not sure what it is called)

that connects to the drain line where I can put bleach in it yearly.

I'm going to have to ask an hvac guy again about just where is the

drip pan that I've never seen unless I saw it yesterday and didn't

realize it when he showed me inside but he had to open up the

airhandler. He did say there was some rust and I wonder why when only

just over a year old or if that is normal. I'll ask more question to

the hvac guy that installed the airhandler and see what he tells me.

I do like the floor register filters just b/c it keeps stuff from

falling in there and I have pet fur and actually bunny poos get on

some of the vents and that would fall inside if no filter. I have

left a few without filters so I would think that would help. Maybe I

should lower the Merve filter in the return and not sure what type

filter he was talking about getting for me. I threw out the Merve 11

he took out and put the new Merve 12 in the return until I figure out

what filter I'll use there. I used the Merve 11 for over a year and

seems if there was a airflow problem something would have happened by

now to let me know.

I think the first hvac guy will stop by without charge when I have

questions so he can put his gauge on the heatpump and then maybe I

can get answers.

Rhonda

--- In , " Carl E. Grimes " <grimes@...>

wrote:

>

> Rhonda,

>

> I checked with an expert I know and he said a unit can be what he

> called " overcharged. " However, this is usually a misdiagnosis for

> dirty cooling coils - which I doubt in your case because the unit

is

> so new - and is also a frequent scare technique.

>

> He may be right but the way you describe his recommendations he

> sounds " sales happy. " I'd get a second opinion before spending any

> money.

>

>

> Carl Grimes

> Healthy Habitats LLC

>

>

> >

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Rhonda,

Excellent thinking process! You are doing great.

You are right I forgot to mention the filters. This is where the HVAC

guy is correct. Any filtration will reduce airflow. The better the

filter the less air gets through and the bigger the motor to make it

work correctly. But you can usually go to MERV 11 or 12 and be okay.

If you already have that much in the return then adding filters to

the vents could be a problem - depending on how resistant they are.

If the vent filters are also 11 or 12 then that is too much but I'd

guess they aren't. Jeff May has a recommendation that works so check

the archives.

In addition to strain on the motor and reduced air movement, the A/C

coils can freeze the moisture it removes onto the coils clogging

airflow. I'd get a couple of opinions about your system specifically

about what is too much and what is workable.

For keeping LARGE particles like fur out of the return vents you

don't need much. Several layers of cheese cloth or medium weight

stiffening material for cloth - can't remember the name right now -

will do that.

You also mentioned a HEPA filter on the return. I doubt that it is

really a HEPA rather than a HEPA-like filter because a HEPA has such

small pores the resistance to air is very high. So high that a

standard blower isn't strong enough. It needs its own blower in its

own cabinet. It won't pull all the air through it, but only about a

third. The rest goes through the unit in the standard fashion. Units

like Americare and Pure Air Systems cost $850 to $1200 or more, plus

installation.

Carl Grimes

Healthy Habitats LLC

-----

> I did a google search and read a few things on R22 Freon which said

> is a Dupont brand name and Puron which I think is 410A the newer,

> enviromentally friendly refrigerant. Said something about 2010 freon

> not available and 2020 banned for good. Now I'm really wondering

> about hvac's b/c said that the coil has to be changed with heatpumps

> that use puron. So, going to ask another hvac person does that mean

> when my heatpump goes(it's over 13yro) I will have to get a new type

> coil to work with it and will it fit my new airhandler b/c I surely

> do not want to have to replace the whole airhandler when my heatpump

> goes.

>

> I did read about too much refrigerant and can harm the system but

> didn't really see just what is the correct amount and if if depends

> on the heatpump you have. Also, this hvac guy blew that gas in the

> air which is not good b/c destroys the ozone and that is why it's

> banned in future. I recall the person that put it in before saying

> it was put in by the pounds. I'm going to learn more about that

> gauge they use and seems this new guy said 75 and 40 or 41degrees and

> I'm not sure what all that means unless pressure and temperature. My

> unit has been running fine for a year and a half.

>

> You didn't mention the filters and retricted air and just what that

> might do to the system. Seems he said moisture can build up in the

> airhandler due to restricted air pressure moving thru but I will have

> to hear that again. Also, think he said the unit has to work harder.

> One thing he did do is change that part(not sure what it is called)

> that connects to the drain line where I can put bleach in it yearly.

> I'm going to have to ask an hvac guy again about just where is the

> drip pan that I've never seen unless I saw it yesterday and didn't

> realize it when he showed me inside but he had to open up the

> airhandler. He did say there was some rust and I wonder why when only

> just over a year old or if that is normal. I'll ask more question to

> the hvac guy that installed the airhandler and see what he tells me.

>

> I do like the floor register filters just b/c it keeps stuff from

> falling in there and I have pet fur and actually bunny poos get on

> some of the vents and that would fall inside if no filter. I have

> left a few without filters so I would think that would help. Maybe I

> should lower the Merve filter in the return and not sure what type

> filter he was talking about getting for me. I threw out the Merve 11

> he took out and put the new Merve 12 in the return until I figure out

> what filter I'll use there. I used the Merve 11 for over a year and

> seems if there was a airflow problem something would have happened by

> now to let me know.

>

> I think the first hvac guy will stop by without charge when I have

> questions so he can put his gauge on the heatpump and then maybe I

> can get answers.

>

> Rhonda

>

>

> >

> > Rhonda,

> >

> > I checked with an expert I know and he said a unit can be what he

> > called " overcharged. " However, this is usually a misdiagnosis for

> > dirty cooling coils - which I doubt in your case because the unit

> is

> > so new - and is also a frequent scare technique.

> >

> > He may be right but the way you describe his recommendations he

> > sounds " sales happy. " I'd get a second opinion before spending any

> > money.

> >

> >

> > Carl Grimes

> > Healthy Habitats LLC

> >

> >

> > >

>

>

>

> FAIR USE NOTICE:

>

>

>

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Guest guest

The floor register filters aren't that thick and you can feel the air

come thru. I've only seen this one type around here at Lowes and Wal-

mart and such. I believe the package says electromagnetic or

static. I looked at that filter once before in the airhandler and

forgot already what it says on it but it is pleated and Honeywell.

Seems when I did a search on it there was a step above that one but I

don't think it will fit my system. I'm going to keep using the Merve

filters since like you said the airhandler filter is not like the

$1000's type Hepa systems and since I have not encountered any

problems in a year and a half.

Rhonda

--- In , " Carl E. Grimes " <grimes@...>

wrote:

>

> Rhonda,

>

> Excellent thinking process! You are doing great.

>

> You are right I forgot to mention the filters. This is where the

HVAC

> guy is correct. Any filtration will reduce airflow. The better the

> filter the less air gets through and the bigger the motor to make

it

> work correctly. But you can usually go to MERV 11 or 12 and be

okay.

> If you already have that much in the return then adding filters to

> the vents could be a problem - depending on how resistant they are.

>

> If the vent filters are also 11 or 12 then that is too much but I'd

> guess they aren't. Jeff May has a recommendation that works so

check

> the archives.

>

> In addition to strain on the motor and reduced air movement, the

A/C

> coils can freeze the moisture it removes onto the coils clogging

> airflow. I'd get a couple of opinions about your system

specifically

> about what is too much and what is workable.

>

> For keeping LARGE particles like fur out of the return vents you

> don't need much. Several layers of cheese cloth or medium weight

> stiffening material for cloth - can't remember the name right now -

> will do that.

>

> You also mentioned a HEPA filter on the return. I doubt that it is

> really a HEPA rather than a HEPA-like filter because a HEPA has

such

> small pores the resistance to air is very high. So high that a

> standard blower isn't strong enough. It needs its own blower in its

> own cabinet. It won't pull all the air through it, but only about a

> third. The rest goes through the unit in the standard fashion.

Units

> like Americare and Pure Air Systems cost $850 to $1200 or more,

plus

> installation.

>

> Carl Grimes

> Healthy Habitats LLC

>

>

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Guest guest

Rhonda,

The material I was trying to remember in innerfacing material. It is

used in petticoats, remember those? The medium weight works best and

is extremely inexpensive. You can buy several yards for a few

dollars.

Because you haven't had problems with your current filters you don't

have a problem.

Carl Grimes

Healthy Habitats LLC

-----

> The floor register filters aren't that thick and you can feel the air

> come thru. I've only seen this one type around here at Lowes and Wal-

> mart and such. I believe the package says electromagnetic or

> static. I looked at that filter once before in the airhandler and

> forgot already what it says on it but it is pleated and Honeywell.

> Seems when I did a search on it there was a step above that one but I

> don't think it will fit my system. I'm going to keep using the Merve

> filters since like you said the airhandler filter is not like the

> $1000's type Hepa systems and since I have not encountered any

> problems in a year and a half.

>

> Rhonda

>

>

>

> >

> > Rhonda,

> >

> > Excellent thinking process! You are doing great.

> >

> > You are right I forgot to mention the filters. This is where the

> HVAC

> > guy is correct. Any filtration will reduce airflow. The better the

> > filter the less air gets through and the bigger the motor to make

> it

> > work correctly. But you can usually go to MERV 11 or 12 and be

> okay.

> > If you already have that much in the return then adding filters to

> > the vents could be a problem - depending on how resistant they are.

> >

> > If the vent filters are also 11 or 12 then that is too much but I'd

> > guess they aren't. Jeff May has a recommendation that works so

> check

> > the archives.

> >

> > In addition to strain on the motor and reduced air movement, the

> A/C

> > coils can freeze the moisture it removes onto the coils clogging

> > airflow. I'd get a couple of opinions about your system

> specifically

> > about what is too much and what is workable.

> >

> > For keeping LARGE particles like fur out of the return vents you

> > don't need much. Several layers of cheese cloth or medium weight

> > stiffening material for cloth - can't remember the name right now -

> > will do that.

> >

> > You also mentioned a HEPA filter on the return. I doubt that it is

> > really a HEPA rather than a HEPA-like filter because a HEPA has

> such

> > small pores the resistance to air is very high. So high that a

> > standard blower isn't strong enough. It needs its own blower in its

> > own cabinet. It won't pull all the air through it, but only about a

> > third. The rest goes through the unit in the standard fashion.

> Units

> > like Americare and Pure Air Systems cost $850 to $1200 or more,

> plus

> > installation.

> >

> > Carl Grimes

> > Healthy Habitats LLC

> >

> >

>

>

>

> FAIR USE NOTICE:

>

>

>

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