Guest guest Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 Jeff, Could you comment a little on mycotoxin testing? I haven't done any myself but have seen reports lately with a wide range of conclusions without a clear basis. When I talk with the lab they say they have no baseline information, only Minimum Detection Limits. I saw one recently of a self collected sample that measured 0.5 ppb (the MDL). Lab told them it was dangerous but told me it was very low and that they didn't have any info about " safe " levels. Do you have any information or sources that could inform this group as to what would be considered a high level of mycotoxin? What would be a level that is low enough to not be a concern? Carl Grimes Healthy Habitats LLC ----- > Pam, > > If the remediation is done correctly, there should not be a whole lot of > mold spores left. Regardless of how it is done, if there has been > significant growth, it is not possible to eliminate or to kill all spores > and since there are billions of them, there will always be enough left to > start growing again. The trick is to prevent the moisture (leaks, high > humidity) from ever again providing the proper conditions for growth. > > In my opinion, all affected bare wood surfaces should be sealed. This will > prevent any residual material left on a surface from ever becoming > aerosolized. As I have said before, for people with chemical sensitivities, > 50% diluted Elmer's glue can be used instead of paints or other sealants > that off gas. No spores or mycotoxins can be aerosolized from a surface that > is properly cleaned and sealed. > > If there are any mycotoxins present in the home, apart from the surfaces > where there was actual growth, the only meaningful mycotoxins present would > be in the dust, so getting rid of all dust is essential. Don't forget the > tops of door and window trim, the insides of electric boxes (outlets, > switches, etc.) and light fixtures, the insulation in stoves, refrigerators, > dishwashers and other appliances (particularly those with air flows), etc. > etc. > > Use great care around all electrical connections; use only plastic vacuum > wands, not metal! turn power off to fixtures, etc. whenever possible.) > > I do not believe that there are any products that would be more effective > than very thorough elimination of all dust. > > Baseboard convectors have to be taken apart and cleaned of all dust. (The > best way to do this is to HEPA vacuum, then blast the fin tubing with steam > vapor from a steam vapor machine, using cloth below to catch dust and > condensed water. (Operate an exhaust fan to take out any dust that > aerosolizes.) Ducts from AC and heating systems can never be completely > cleaned of residual dust, but cleaning of an air conveyance system is > certainly a step that should be taken. > > I think that many people are overly concerned about mycotoxins without ever > kbowing if any are even involved. Sending off a sample of house dust can > certainly give you an idea if mycotoxins are present. If you have hot air > heat, you could take all the dust from a dirty filter (or from a HEPA > prefilter purifier) or take all the dust from your refrigerator coils (which > collect dust from the air). These samples will give you an idea of what you > have been breathing. > > For seeing if it is in your settled dust, you could vacuum carpets and other > house dust into a clean bag, then send the bag off for analysis. I believe > that Aerotech does mycotoxin analysis of dust samples. > > Old radiators are also a great source of house dust; purchase a 36 " vacuum > crevice tool to get the dust out and into a vacuum bag. > > For meaningful results, you would probably need at least a quarter cup of > dust but check with the lab. The more you can collect, the more likely you > are to detect mycotoxins if any are present. > > In the end, testing may prove too costly since you don't know what > mycotoxins to test for and there are many. I have only sent out house dust > for testing once. The dust came from the refrigerator coils in a house that > had Aspergillus ochraceus growing in the ducts (on dog food!) and a very > high level of ochratoxin-A (a mycotoxin from the Aspergillus)in the duct > dust. We were lookingg for the presence of this specific mycotoxin and > surprisingly, no mycotoxin was detected in the collected dust. > > Of course, fleecy surfaces (carpets, cushions, dog beds, etc.) that contain > residual dust that can never be removed and items such as these will always > be suspect. They should be removed from the space and replaced or sealed. > > For a legal case, I needed evidence from house dust of the prior conditions > there. I removed the cover from a dial thermostat (which has significant air > flow through it due to the presence of an internal heater) and found a large > clump of dust. In the dust, I found (using a microscope) all the evidence I > needed for the past presence of pets, mold and paint spraying. > > C. May, M.A., CIAQP > May Indoor Air Investigations LLC > 3 Tolkien Lane > Tyngsborough, MA 01879 > 617-354-1055 > www.mayindoorair.com > www.myhouseiskillingme.com > > >Re: Your opinions about MDF 500 please!! > >Posted by: " Pam Gibbard " pqgibbard@... pqgibbard > >Date: Sun Aug 26, 2007 12:23 pm ((PDT)) > > >Jeff, thanx so much for your professional clarification on all of > >this! It is very, very helpful to have your opinion that ordinary > >laundry detergent is just as effective as this product for fabric > >cleanup. > > >But I am still confused on the mycotoxin cleanup in my house. I think > >what my fuzzy brain must have meant was that with mold remediation it > >is essential to both kill the mold spores so that they don't produce > >any additional mycotoxins, and also to remove the spores and > >mycotoxins from the home environment. Is this explanation now > >accurate? > > >But here is the most important question. Beyond the basics of mold > >remediation (e.g., repairing any moisture problems, removing any > >damaged surfaces and visible mold spores, and HEPA vacuuming, which I > >have done), what product(s) and procedures do you recommend for the > >final cleanup step? In other words, how do I get rid of any remaining > >mold spores plus mycotoxins in my house??? Is there a product that > >can help? If so, how is it used. > > >Thank you for any clarification you can provide on this very > >confusing situation. > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You are posting as a guest. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.