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Re[2]: Air Cleaners

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Hi,

Please read up on all info about the filtering systems you choose. Ion vs

HEPA vs heat.

Lots of info. I use an ION filter (no filter to replace) you need to be

aware that each filter has it's own hazards. Some people are allergic to the

charcoal in some, others are worried about the ionizer destroying their

lungs.Check the capacity to clean of each. no sense getting one that only does

small

rooms if you need a large house done.

I have a special IQ cleaner at work that has a 4 stage filter from IQ air. I

work in an enviornment with all kinds of issues. So again really read up on

them before buying.

Jean

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Hi,

Please read up on all info about the filtering systems you choose. Ion vs

HEPA vs heat.

Lots of info. I use an ION filter (no filter to replace) you need to be

aware that each filter has it's own hazards. Some people are allergic to the

charcoal in some, others are worried about the ionizer destroying their

lungs.Check the capacity to clean of each. no sense getting one that only does

small

rooms if you need a large house done.

I have a special IQ cleaner at work that has a 4 stage filter from IQ air. I

work in an enviornment with all kinds of issues. So again really read up on

them before buying.

Jean

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May I suggest that you only buy 1 of these air puifiers (ion or ozone

generating) at first as some people find any type of ozone odor offensive and

they can actually cause respitory problems in some people.

If you use an Ionizing purifier I believe they say your particles are weighted

down with the extra ions, and that you can collect them later with your vacuum

cleaner or other cleaning device. I certainly hope that your cleaning device has

a filtering sytem (such as hepa bags) that will not just blow the particles

back into the room again.

Also remember that if your air is not being returned to the filtering device you

are not cleaning your air you are only moving it around, air cleaners need to be

left on.

Filters:

HEPA: High efficiency particulate air (HEPA) filter is 99.97 percent efficient

for 0.3 micron particulates when measured with Military Standard 282 DOP test.

DOP: Hospital-grade DOP filter is 95 percent efficient for 0.3 micron

particulates when measured with Military Standard 282 DOP test.

CPZ: ( Carbon, Permeolite, and Zeolite ) Sorbent modules . Adsorbs higher

molecular weight hydrocarbons and oxides acid gases and lower molecular weight

hydrocarbons.

Electronic Air Cleaners: Electronic air cleaners work by having the particles

pass by ionizing wires which charge the particles. After this they will pass by

the collector plates. Every other collector plate is also charged and pushes the

charged particle to the grounded plates. These charged particles are then held

on the plates until they are washed off.

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May I suggest that you only buy 1 of these air puifiers (ion or ozone

generating) at first as some people find any type of ozone odor offensive and

they can actually cause respitory problems in some people.

If you use an Ionizing purifier I believe they say your particles are weighted

down with the extra ions, and that you can collect them later with your vacuum

cleaner or other cleaning device. I certainly hope that your cleaning device has

a filtering sytem (such as hepa bags) that will not just blow the particles

back into the room again.

Also remember that if your air is not being returned to the filtering device you

are not cleaning your air you are only moving it around, air cleaners need to be

left on.

Filters:

HEPA: High efficiency particulate air (HEPA) filter is 99.97 percent efficient

for 0.3 micron particulates when measured with Military Standard 282 DOP test.

DOP: Hospital-grade DOP filter is 95 percent efficient for 0.3 micron

particulates when measured with Military Standard 282 DOP test.

CPZ: ( Carbon, Permeolite, and Zeolite ) Sorbent modules . Adsorbs higher

molecular weight hydrocarbons and oxides acid gases and lower molecular weight

hydrocarbons.

Electronic Air Cleaners: Electronic air cleaners work by having the particles

pass by ionizing wires which charge the particles. After this they will pass by

the collector plates. Every other collector plate is also charged and pushes the

charged particle to the grounded plates. These charged particles are then held

on the plates until they are washed off.

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  • 2 years later...

Thank you very much for the input. I'm pretty much sold on the

HealthPro Plus, even though it's going to cost more and the filters

are very expensive. I wish I could afford to remediate or move, but

both are impossible now. The HPP does have the extra HEGA filter that

removes gases and odors and their HEPA filter removes particles as

small as .003 microns. The brand was also used in Hong Kong hospitals

in the SARS wards. No UV, but I've since been told that the lights

burn out quickly and can also damage other parts of the purifier. When

I get the unit, will give you feedback on it.

Barth

---

L> ,

L> HEPA filters will remove the physically larger particles from the air.

L> They work like a sieve, which doesn't have anything at all to do with

L> mycotoxins. Some research indicates that smaller particles have higher

L> toxicity by weight, I think, so thats something to be concerned about! The

L> particles that cruise through the HEPA filter may be the most dangerous to

L> your body because of their small size. The same issue exists for masks.

L> OTOH, filtration IS helpful in emergency situations when elimination

L> (physical removal of all mold) or dilution (letting in lots of fresh air to

L> dilute any particles in the air) is not available. But the smaller

L> particles (the ones the filters don't filter out) are also the ones that

L> go the deepest into your lungs! The most dangerous. Brand name has nothing

L> to do with that ability, in that all filters are the same, except that

L> different filters may be different in their pore sizes and ability to fiter

L> out some VOCs (some filters have activated charcoal, but that activated

L> charcoal's ability to fiter out VOCs doesn't last very long in a high VOC

L> situation)

L> I am not an expert on filtration by any means. It is useful for people in

L> situations where they need to reduce the amount of particulates in the air.

L> But they might also be dangerous in the sense that they might induce in

L> people who are using them a false sense of security in a dangerous

L> situation. If you keep that in mind, you'll be better off in the long run.

L> As far as UV light, honestly, I don't know UV light's effect on mycotoxins.

L> I suspect that UV light is effective mostly in killing some viable bacteria,

L> viruses, etc. I don't think that the oxidation effect of light even kills

L> all bacteria, either.

L> As far as lights? The sun emits strong UV light, MUCH stronger than any

L> light fixture. Putting objects in bring sunlight for several days is known

L> to reduce the reactivity to people of mold on an object. If a manufacturer

L> is making claims for a product, there may be some EPA regulations that they

L> need to follow. There might (I would think should) be more information on

L> the EPAs web site about specific products, which could be looked up perhaps

L> by the manufacturer.

L> Mycotoxins I think can be much more durable than bacteria. Some mycotoxins,

L> like trichothecenes, are incredibly resistant to deactivation and again, I

L> think its prudent to assume that unless you hear from a reputable authority

L> on a particular kind of mycotoxin (people like Dr. Straus at TTUHSC

L> for trichothecenes, for example) that a particular decontamination strategy

L> is effective for that substance) I would assume as the default that it does

L> NOT reduce its toxicity to be safe. So a filter might reduce the amount of

L> particles, but the particles remaining might be more toxic, by weight. (but

L> there would be less of them) and more able to penetrate deeply into the

L> lungs, on the average. In practice, in a severe mold environment, you would

L> probably get some relief, but not enough to make a situation safe especially

L> if you spent a lot of time there. Better to remove the mold itself if

L> possible.

L> I hope that I wasn't too annoying explaining this. I don't guarantee its

L> 100% accurate, but I think its fairly close.. Non-experts like me may know

L> the mechanics somewhat but there are some legal definitions involved with

L> stuff like this.. I can't explain them as I don't know the acronyms and

L> specs they use..

L> (Carl for example, would.)

L>

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