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Re: Jackie's heat pump concern

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Re: HumidifiersPosted by: jackiebreeze@... jackiebreezeDate: Tue Jan 29,

2008 7:48 am ((PST)) Jeff,Would a heat pump be forced hot air heat? I have

allergies really bad...could the heat be making myhead hurt? I never had a heat

pump before. I sure hopemy heat pump is not causing these problems in

me....ifso, I don't think I can tell anyone. My husband wentout on a limb to get

me in a brand new home and Ican't say now, " the heat pump is making me sick! "

lol!Jackie

Problems can exist in heat pumps or other forced air heating/cooling systems. In

sensitized people, problems can arise even in the first year of operation. They

usually develop in summer, during cooling season, in the air conditioner coils,

drain pan, or drain lines. If the coils are above the furnace firebox, the

furnace heat should be sufficient to kill micro-organisms breeding there, but

heat pumps do not get hot enough to kill these microbes. And, as has been

mentioned several times before, central humidifiers can breed considerable mold.

Some furnaces have AC coils before the heat source, and, like humidifiers, can

be a problem all year long, because the furnace heat never gets there. If one of

these is your problem, the system needs to be opened. Now, clean the coils

gently with a liquid dishwashing detergent solution in water. Rinse with clean

water. Next disinfect the system with water containing 5-10% Clorox or other

unscented chlorine bleach. Pour the excess down the AC drain line to make sure

you also disinfect it also. When doing so, look at how well the AC drain pan

drains. It should have very little standing water. If it does, it needs to be

re-leveled to drain completely. When done with cleaning, turn the furnace fan on

and leave the house for a few hours, because the Clorox fumes will be

irritating. When you return, hopefully your problem will be solved.The reason

there is a problem is because sufficient moisture came in contact with

sufficient organic material- dust, with minor levels of mold spores or bacteria,

allowing them to grow. Using higher quality filters (antimicrobial pleated

filters, or 3M Filtrete Ultra Allergen filters), while not correcting the

current problem, can slow the return of the problem once the system is

cleaned.One complicating factor is the possible entrance of microbes in the

return air supply, very likely if the return air ducts have leaks and run

through damp basements or crawl spaces.There is one further possible

complicating factor. Some houses, schools, and commercial buildings have air

distribution systems containing insulation inside the ducts and plenum, or ducts

and plenum made with fiberglass ductboard. These are great for energy

conservation and for sound muffling. But, these materials have a much stronger

tendency than sheet metal to absorb dust and moisture, and then to become moldy.

Older fiberglass ductboard also can shed microscopic fiberglass fibers, possibly

leading to an irritation itch or to respiratory problems. If you have either, I

suggest it be removed and replaced with sheet metal ductwork.If these

suggestions work, consider changing the way you operate the AC. After cooling,

when the AC and fan go off, a little water may remain in the drain pan. If the

fan is off a long period, such as overnight, the fan chamber will warm up to

ambient temperature and water will evaporate, possibly leading to 90%+ relative

humidity (RH) in the furnace chamber. This is ideal mold growing condition.

Consider leaving the fan on continuously. Doing so will prevent RH from going

over that in your living space. Continuous is actually the recommended method of

operation of newer high efficiency furnaces and air conditioners. In these the

fan is variable speed, and slows considerably when neither heating or cooling,

but providing constant air motion. Also, whenever shutting the AC down, let the

fan run at least two hours longer to thoroughly dry the drain pan.Good luck in

correcting whatever problem you can identify.Gil Vice

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