Mold overrated as problem, but can compromise health

[Guest guest]

Mold overrated as problem, but can compromise health

The Gleaner

By C. Dwight Barnett (Contact)

Friday, May 30, 2008

http://www.courierpress.com/news/2008/may/30/mold-overrated-as-

problem-but-can-compromise/

My wife and I are looking for a new home. We found a foreclosed home

that has been abandoned for probably close to a year. We understand

that a previous sale of this home fell through due to mold. What

does it take to remove mold from a vacant home?

K.O., Fort Wayne, Ind.

Mold is overrated as a major problem, though that's not to say that

it can't exasperate existing health problems. Here's what can be

done if you discover mold in the accessible areas of the home:

Cut out any mold found on drywall or sheetrock.

If you can see mold growing on the finished side of the drywall, the

back or unfinished side is probably much worse.

Although plaster does not support the growth of mold, the paint,

wallpaper and sealers used on the plaster will. Scrape and clean the

surface of plastered walls.

Lead-based paint will not support mold growth, but the oils and dirt

that collect on the surface will. Therefore, the paint should be

cleaned using a mild bleach and warm water wash.

Do not sand or scrape lead-based paint as the lead will become

airborne, which is a more serious health threat than the mold.

Mold found on wood in the under-floor areas is common and probably

would not affect the occupants of the home.

To treat, use a bleach-and- water solution on mold in under-floor

areas, then seal the wood with a " boat coat " or clear varnish sealer

once the wood has dried. Same for the attic.

Molds on wood are natural and are a part of the decay process, so

look for and correct the sources of moisture that are contributing

to the decay.

An air conditioner is a dehumidifier, but if it has been left off

while the house was unoccupied, that may be why mold is present

inside the home.

Have the ductwork cleaned, including the interior cooling coil, coil

box and fan.

Remove any and all damp insulation in the walls, attic or under-

floor areas.

Use expanding foam in the under-floor and in the wall cavities. Use

expanding foam or loose fill fiberglass in the attics. Insulate the

attic to an R-48 to save on energy costs. Insulate the walls if they

are not already insulated. An R-13 or higher rating is preferred.

Install storm doors and low-E replacement windows.

Seal all air leaks to the interior of the home.

When the drywall has been removed and wall cavities are exposed,

seal all four sides of the cavity where the wood studs meet the

exterior sheeting with silicone caulk.

Remember mold requires moisture, warmth and a food source to

survive. Remove any one of the three and the mold will go dormant.

May I suggest you have the home inspected by a professional

inspector, one listed with the American Society of Home Inspectors

(ASHI), or have the home rated by an Energy Star rater before and

after the work has been completed.

ville resident C. Dwight Barnett is a Master Inspector and is

certified by the American Society of Home Inspectors. Write to him

with home improvement questions at C. Dwight Barnett, Courier &

Press, P.O. Box 268, ville, IN. 47702. His e-mail address is

d.barnett@.... Please include a self-addressed, stamped

envelope with your questions.