Re: Re: Question about removing musty odor - False promises of filter manufacturers in general.

[Guest guest]

By the way, no air filter will remove musty air. To remove - which

always means, to replace- (because exhausting air in only one location

- in other words, unbalanced ventilation like an exhaust fan,

typically pulls other air in through the walls - to replace air, you

need a fan..or air blower, or pump.. or ideally, an HRV or ERV, which

also supplies make up air.)

Simply filtering the SAME STALE AIR over and over will soon exhaust

even the most massive activated charcoal cartridges. NO way would they

a year and continue to remove any kind of volatile toxin. I doubt if

they would even last anything close to that. Don't forget, the volume

of air being 'cleaned' is FAR greater than the amount going through a

half-face respirator! They would need serious weight of activated

charcoal to clean that.

For example, once the charcoal is exhausted, it WON'T remove MVOCs,

which are, many think, the reason people who are exposed to mold also

end up hypersensitzed to many other odors, like MCS...

The only thing that will make air " fresh " is to EXCHANGE it for FRESH

air... ideally in a balanced fashon to prevent condensation inside the

walls..

[Guest guest]

Barb,

You have an old house with a sump-pump, and I can see how its a real

challenge to get it healthy, but, assuming that there isn't extensive

mold inside of the walls, it probably can be done without tearing

everything apart. There are a couple of things about your situation

that are just crying out to be fixed.

You said that you can see into your basement through the chinks in the

floor, so this may involve some work, but perhaps you could close off

your basement crawlspace and its sump-pump from the conditioned space,

using some kind of insulation - foam, maybe? (you would also

definitely need to insulate your pipes if they run down there) (Talk

to your local building official and they may even be able to suggest

contractors.)

Also, important, When the sealing off part is done, ventilate your

basement slightly.. to the outdoors..with a small exhaust fan down

there, near the sump pump.. *that runs all the time*

Then, the basement/crawlspace and its sump pump will be " outdoors " -

That would probably help make the humidity much more manageable.

The next step would be to attack the sources of moisture that are

indoors- get an exhaust fan for your bathroom (or a whole-house HRV,

which you could use year round, cycling on maybe ten minutes an hour,

and going into override when the humidstat detects high humidity)

instead of simply opening the window when you shower?

(Its hard to do that in the winter when its cold outside, isn't it?)

And use a kitchen exhaust fan every time you cook. (dont use the HRV

to exhaust kitchen fumes, but its fine to put a exhaust in the

bathroom.)

The make up air mght be problematic.. Make sure to open your kitchen

window when you use your kitchen fan, even with the HRV, you may have

a problem with backdrafting.. You may want to add a small passive vent

in your basement to allow make up air to enter your basement.. Put it

near any combustion appliances..

On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 5:35 PM, barb1283 <barb1283@...> wrote:

> I have a fresh air intake with tight filter on it, tied right into cold

> air return since 2005. It was first thing I did for house air q, but I

> have to shut it off in summer. I learned that from experience. I have

> to shut it off or I cannot get house humidity down below 50%.

>