Guest guest Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 If basement air is not sealed off from house yet, do you think I can use an HRV. Advantage are that it will exchange air in basement without negatively pressurizing it??? --- In , LiveSimply <quackadillian@...> wrote: > > Really, Barb, I would strongly recommend an HRV to you. Sure, nobody > in many parts of the US has heard of them, but they are great.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 I don't know much about the need for building codes, so I will ask about that before anything is done. As for floor, it isn't even two floors. It is one row of wood plants over joists. You see the bottom of floor on top of the joists in the basement. I can't put a ceiling in basement since all kinds of wires run criss cross the ceiling and copper water pipes and large metal ducts for furnace and wiring is kind that will need to be replaced soon. It's old 'tube and knob' wiring which is not up to code but I don't need to replace it unless wiring work is done, then you have to upgrade to today's wiring, so since that will need to be done some day, a ceiling would make that more difficult and ALSO I was told foam stuff can't be used around 'tube and knob wiring', so probably only thing would be to put something on top of floor is just largest area rugs I can find. Thanks for your suggestions though. --- In , LiveSimply <quackadillian@...> wrote: > > Barb, yes, you definitely need to do everything you can to close up > those holes in your floor. > Your house sounds very rustic with the old floor planks, etc, and > those old wood floors > can be very, very nice when done right, but I would consult with some pros about > how you might block the holes properly.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 I don't have standing water anywhere in house. I see moisture on the floor of garage on some days that I believe is coming up from below, since I have seen it on days that there is no rain, so not brought in by car. Part of garage is already dug up for another thing going on and no standing water there, so there is no sign of standing water and also garage air doesn't mix with house. It has a finished ceiling, unlike the basement. I think the areas of moisture must indicate water under garage floor in areas. It is spotty. Since tree had roots there, I imagine there disappearance, as well as disturbance of soil in that area where we REPLACED WHOLE WALL OF FOUNDATION......huge job, may have caused air pockets in soil when settled, or roots disappearing left air pockets which maybe attracting water when soil is moist. I don't know. Noone will know unless the garage floor is dug up. Basement has a corner that has some cracking for years but not much water comes in but dampness on the wall in corner. No mold growing on wall that can be seen but dampish, muggy odor if you are near it. There MUST BE mold inside of cinder blocks there since there is moisture constantly. It isn't a large area but it should be taken care of. It would have been fixed years ago BUT there is no way to get at it from outside. No machinery can get in there. It's too small an area between houses and there is an overhang of the house which would be in the way. I did the most could be done outside. I had it hand dug down to 20 inches, about 8 years ago as I said, repaired and waterproofed down to 20 inches, which is the 'freeze/thaw' line, which is recommended. However we couldn't go any further down due to size and number of huge ancient Maple tree and ALSO ran into the underground gutter system, so I did the rest of work inside. Inside a french drain system was installed which drains into a sump pump which I have mentioned before, but I'm not satisfied with solution, as floor stays dry but corner stays damp. Drylock paint that was put there in 1998 has worn off. I lasted about 5-6 years. I plan to clean the area again and put drylock cement and paint on there again but that isn't really a permanent solution but should keep air and moisture from getting into the house for awhile. I've talked to someone to do this for me but he can't do it for a couple weeks, so I was thinking of putting the plastic up and an air cleaner. That's where the question came from. Why would I call a building inspector?? I've done everything recommended already. I had hand digging done as far down as possible outside and I paid $3k french drain system and sump pump inside, also in 1998. I just don't like the fact I still have a damp corner in the basement. After french drain system was put in they put drylock on the wall. Just putting the drylock back on wall would restore it to how it was after $3k spent there but I know now there is still dampness, otherwise it wouldn't have come off. Anyway, I'm not asking for someone to solve this problem for me, here on the board. I just asking about the air cleaner. I thought I'd put it in corner to catch any spores that might come from damp corner until corner can be patched with drylock or cement water proofing or other improvement made, and put plastic up to protect air from that area from being picked up and circulating around basement and up into house. Not a permanent solution, but for today/tomorrow, etc. --- In , LiveSimply <quackadillian@...> wrote: > >If i were you, I would consult with your building inspector. > > They know you might not be able to afford a lot, > they don't know about mold but they can keep you legal.. > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You are posting as a guest. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.