Guest guest Posted November 15, 2009 Report Share Posted November 15, 2009 I had to do this, and not finished with attic yet but have come to the conclusion that there is no good choices. I cleaned out my attic entirely because house has plaster walls and they crack easily which allowed air to flow down from attic into house and carried irritating, dirty insulation with air flow I discovered. Now cleaned, I plan to foam attic in, but you cannot foam over old insulation and it is more than twice as expensive as most other insulations that I checked, but if plaster cracks, I won't get insulaton circulating inside of house. I don't like fiberglass because I think eventually fiberglass will be considered as asbestos because airborne, if it gets into lungs, it will never come out. The other choices seem to me to sound very mold susceptible, like cellulose, cotton, etc. Environmentally friendly but mold friendly also. If you foam, you have to pay to have your old insulation taken out. There are two types of foam: Icynene and Sealection. They are chemically different, not just different brands. If you foam attic floor, you can keep existing attic roof vents. If you foam underside of roof, you close up attic vents, if there are any, as they aren't needed anymore and defeat the purpose of foaming. > > Our house was built in 1969 is well built and in good shape, but we really need to add some insulation in the attic and replace the attic stair door. > Can anyone help me out with what type insulation is best to use? We had a man out who wants to use the loose type which they spread all over what is already there. Has anyone done this recently and had any health problems with it? > Any advice will be appreciated. > > Thanks, Sue > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted November 15, 2009 Report Share Posted November 15, 2009 Pat. I don't know. I didn't ask about the chemistry. I just liked the fact it would keep air movement in the house from moving from attic down into house, attic air sealed off from house, since attic isn't clean area, but I wouldn't be surprised. I'm not happy with any of the choices. I wish they could find a better way to build houses. You might ask Jeff May. I believe he built a new house and considered Icyene but decided on fiberglass in the end, but I could be wrong and don't know what his reasons were. In newer homes though, the attic is better sealed off from rest of house. Your attic, Sue, might have better seal betw attic and house below, than mine, built in 1938. Fiberglass really worries me, like tiny knives that can get into your airways. I got some in my eye and it took years to work it's way out. Some times that eye bothers me a little still. However moldy cellulose or cotton doesn't sounds desireable either. > > Isn't there formaldehyde in that foam? > > Barth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted November 15, 2009 Report Share Posted November 15, 2009 I think Aircrete can only be used on verticle insulation jobs, like walls since it doesn't allow moisture movement. In roof or attic you need something that will allow moisture to escape and I think Aircrete is like that foam you have coolers made of, no air movement or moisture escape at all. On roof or attic floor and other horizontal surfaces you need something where you can have evaporation of moisture since moisture travels up (and down), and the Icyenen and Sealection foam they sell for attic insulation does allow for moisture movement, although alot less than loose fill insulation. > > I found this while looking. Air Crete > > http://www.airkrete.com/ >  > > God Bless !! > dragonflymcs > Mayleen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted November 15, 2009 Report Share Posted November 15, 2009 There is fiberglass in 'batts', has paper around it. Come to think of it, I think this may be what Jeff used. I was thinking of the foam because house is so air leaky and the foam would stop alot of that. It stops the air movement up and down, but moisture can wick it's way through, as per my information. So you might consider that Sue. Fiberglass doesn't support mold grow unless it gets dirty and the paper covers keeps it clean but of course the paper covers can get dirty but mold could only ruin the batt and that could easily be replaced. Fiberglass is contained, unless you get a hole in it and that wouldn't be too bad. It is not a good insulated by itself because air gets between the batts pretty easily so people mainly use a combination of blown in fiberglass right on the floor and then batts over the top of that, or vice versa so the loose fills in the gaps between the batts. What was recommended to me was batts down between the floor boards of attic and then loose fill blown in, to fill in gaps between the batts, so you still have alot of loose fiberglass but not as much as you would if it was all blown in. The only thing I can think of is batts down at floor, then blown in to fill in gaps and then batts over the top, to hold loose stuff down at bit, but still don't like the idea of any loose fiberglass in 'my' older home since it is too air leaky. It wasn't built with any insulation at all, so air was supposed to move between all floors, basement and attic. That's they way it was designed. Newer homes were built to stop air flow to attic and basement areas or minimize it 'I think', from my reading... > > I'm not sure it is either, but I thought I remembered someone saying > there was formaldehyde in the foam. I don't like the thought of > fiberglass either. What about the sheets of sealed up insulation? I > forget what it is called. > > Barth > > www.presenting.net/sbs/sbs.html > > SUBMIT YOUR DOCTOR: www.presenting.net/sbs/molddoctors.html > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted November 15, 2009 Report Share Posted November 15, 2009 In my home in NH I used what they call " virgin fiberglass " . Its pure white with no dyes etc and is kept in place (blown in) with pure mineral oil.I think thats about as good as you are going to find. It did not bother me at all. Google virgin fiberlgass and see what you can find as this company was in NH. D > > > > Isn't there formaldehyde in that foam? > > > > Barth > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted November 15, 2009 Report Share Posted November 15, 2009 Green Depot has insulation made from recycled denim-it's the only stuff I would use. I had a really bad experience with insulation when we tried to insulate the basement ceiling to keep our first floor warmer. The insulation came through the wood floors (or something) because the particles killed my eyes and lungs. I will NEVER insulate again! Please be careful all that stuff is very toxic. > > Our house was built in 1969 is well built and in good shape, but we really need to add some insulation in the attic and replace the attic stair door. > Can anyone help me out with what type insulation is best to use? We had a man out who wants to use the loose type which they spread all over what is already there. Has anyone done this recently and had any health problems with it? > Any advice will be appreciated. > > Thanks, Sue > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted November 15, 2009 Report Share Posted November 15, 2009 Mayleen, Where do you find 'building specialists'? Are these engineers? I have worked with 'builders' and been very disappointed to the point of not going ahead with building, like I was going to turn my back porch into a room for myself, since it would not get air from the house, no attic over it and no basement beneath it, but both builders I talked to where going to insulate on the INSIDE side of brick columns that are on each corner, so I lost confidence in them entirely. Brick conducts heat and cold very well and so you would insulate OUTSIDE of them and maybe inside also, but the side to be concerned about is OUTSIDE. When I asked 'shouldn't you insulate outside of brick' and they didn't see why, I cancelled plans to go ahead. If that was too difficult for them to see, what other mistakes will they make, so decided to forget about it for time being. Now I don't have enough money to do it so have to deal with the house as a whole due to losses in investments and illness also. I don't find people I talk to very educated in how to build to prevent mold or water damage problems. > > I guess a good idea would be to consult with a building specialist. I have found these guys good in answering questions I have asked in the past. Hope it helps !! > > http://www.greenbuildingsupply.com//Public/Home/index.cfm >  >   > God Bless !! > dragonflymcs > Mayleen > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted November 16, 2009 Report Share Posted November 16, 2009 what did you use for insulation? I've just done the same thing you describe with white fiberglass. I have pre-existing eye and lung problems so I'm not sure that I notice a difference. Did you see particles in your first floor space? Anne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted November 16, 2009 Report Share Posted November 16, 2009 Sue, There is no formaldehyde in Icynene. The foam off-gasses for a short time but if mixed in the proper proportions by a licensed installer, the foam is odorless after a few days. Many clients with MCS have used this foam and not have had a problem with off-gassing. I did not use it in my home because the attic space is very tall and installing it between the rafters (which I would have preferred) was far too expensive, so I ended up using fiberglass batts. I don't mind having them in the attic (but would never install them below grade, in a basement or crawl-space ceiling). I have seen some problems with other foams and most recently with one that was supposesd to be " green, " soybean based I believe. The tenants are experiencing eye irritation and headaches due to a chemical odor. May May Indoor Air Investigations LLC Tyngsborough, MA www.mayindoorair.com 978-649-1055 (PST) > > I'm not sure it is either, but I thought I remembered someone saying > there was formaldehyde in the foam. I don't like the thought of > fiberglass either. What about the sheets of sealed up insulation? I > forget what it is called. > > Barth > > www.presenting.net/sbs/sbs.html > > SUBMIT YOUR DOCTOR: www.presenting.net/sbs/molddoctors.html > > --- > > BBW> Pat. I don't know. I didn't ask about the chemistry. I just > liked the fact it would keep air movement in the house from moving > from attic down into house, attic air sealed off from house, > BBW> since attic isn't clean area, but I wouldn't be surprised. > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted November 17, 2009 Report Share Posted November 17, 2009 Sue, I suppose that there will always be someone out there that will have a problem with something, so there are no guarantees. Perhaps you can minimize your chances for future difficulties by obtaining a bag of the the insulation you are planning to use and having a professional installer spread some of it out in the attic. Since you already have fiberglass present, the material itself may not be a problem for you. I believe that the difference between the blown material and the batts is the presence of (yellow or dyed pink, formaldehyde-based)adhesive that holds the fibers together in the batts. The blown insulation has no adhesive because this would make it impossible to " blow " the fibers. Since you have a hip roof, there is another concern. These are difficult to ventilate. By increasing the amount of insulation, you will be creating a cooler attic. Make certain that there are no ways for warm, moist house air to infiltrate the attic because a colder attic means a greater likelihood for condensation. Seal around the attic access, plumbing stacks, chimney penetration, etc. to stop air flows up. Do this before adding the extra insulation because once the attic is full of loose insulation, it is impossible to navigate. Just increasing the ventilation is not the answer because if there are sources of house moisture, condensation may still appear. The sources must be stopped. Be very careful about the spread of insulation into the house during installation, as this may be the source of the problems most people encounter. If there is an attic fan present, is should be on to depressurize the attic during installation. (You do not want the attic pressurized so that air with fibers will infiltrate downstairs.)You may even be able to pressurize the house with a box fan blowing in from a window on a side away from the installation equipment (which should be downwind from the house if possible). Don't let people into the house covered with insulation. If a hose has to go through the house, make sure that it is clean. (It is best if the hose comes into the attic directly, through a vent or the soffit if possible.) Agree in advance what the procedure will be and have someone representing you to be there to check that the procedure is followed. The last thing you want is a house full of fibers. Cellulose insulation is often used for the same purpose and can be installed but with the same precautions. Jeff May Indoor Air Investigations LLC Tyngsborough, MA www.mayindoorair.com 978-649-1055 > RE: ATTIC INSULATION > > POSTED BY: \ " SSR3351@...\ " SSR3351@... > SSR3351 > > Mon Nov 16, 2009 6:20 pm (PST) > > Jeff, thank you so much for your reply but the insulation that we are > considering is the loose type R-30 fiberglass that they would spread > on top of the old batting type that is already between the wooden > rafters. The old batting has been there since 1968 and needs more. We > can stand in the center of our attic and it is a hip type roof. Is > there any problem with that type of insulation? > Thanks so much for your help! > Sue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 Mold resistent denim for insulation would have chemical added. I'd love to use something like denim that doesn't blow around, but if it has something in it that kills mold, wouldn't be good to breath either I would think. > > Do you know whether or not the recycled denim is mold-free or resistant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 No I don't and that is a really great question-I would have to say call them and ask but of course now that you asked I'm thinking what insulation is really mold proof if it gets really soaked? I'd think the first thing you pull out is the insulation. > > Green Depot has insulation made from recycled denim-it's the only stuff I would use. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 I'm not sure everything would get moldy if it really got soaked. If it is someplace where it would dry out within 48 hours, it shouldn't. If there is leak in roof, it should show up on ceiling of rooms below it and if the water dries out, it should be okay. If you can get to insulation, seems reasonable to pull it out and put in fresh, but do you think you'd need to go into ceiling or wall cavity beneath that leak and pull out the insulation? I had roof leak over an unoccupied room and was surprised to find dirt streak down wall paper in that room. At first I thought mold but there was no odor even though room was closed up. When I thought about it, I realized that water coming from roof likely collected dirt as traveled through roof, since roof is about 30 years old, so water running down was dirty water probably, rather moldy water. You may be right though. I would be more concerned about constant high humidity with anything not treated to be mold resistent. However if treated, what is the chemical and even though denim is environmentally friendly, is the chemical it's treated with also? > > No I don't and that is a really great question-I would have to say call them and ask but of course now that you asked I'm thinking what insulation is really mold proof if it gets really soaked? I'd think the first thing you pull out is the insulation. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted November 20, 2009 Report Share Posted November 20, 2009 All I know is that mold growth is ridiculously unpredictable. I just had a really small leaks in 2 places in my kitchen but the formica cabinets below the sinks have been destroyed-how did the mold grow so fast? Was it there for a long time and just exploded when it got wet? I dried the cabinets and left a fan there and it wasn't particularly humid so how did this happen? I've learned that you can never be too cautious. Meanwhile, my kitchen still bothers me even though I ripped out the moldy formica cabinets. I fear there is mold lurking somewhere and I cannot afford to replace this kitchen now or ever and am depressed. > > I'm not sure everything would get moldy if it really got soaked. If it is someplace where it would dry out within 48 hours, it shouldn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 20, 2010 Report Share Posted May 20, 2010 See studies done in NC, take half the subdivision, close the vents, half leave them open-closed better during the humid season, but with a de-humidifyer is the best, and with a vapor barrier on the ground. Watch though if mold grows under the vapor barrier, it could get into the house. > > Hi again, > Since there might be asbestos in my loose attic insulation I think I should have it tested. I found a few leads on the net but wondering if anyone here can reccommend a reliable lab. > For 8 mos out of the year it is VERY wet here. The fill in my attic absorbs water from the air. I prefer to remove it but maybe shouldn't disturb it. I know attics are supposed to be ventilated but my thought is that it's getting wetter that way...not drying out. It makes better sense to me to to seal the vents until the weather is dry. > EX: The part of my crawlspace with no venting is the dryest! > Any thoughts on this? > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 20, 2010 Report Share Posted May 20, 2010 Trouble with my own house led me to this fact, that vents only help house in the winter, exhausting hot humid air (if that is NECESSARY in YOUR house. My house was plenty air leaky and the attic had existed for 60 years without mold in, so don't fix something that isn't broken, like I did. I added vents to my old attic and CREATED a summer problem. In the summer, those same vents bring IN heat and humidity. I read the following comment by someone in a group complaining that his 'dumb turbine' vent didn't work right as he said he was standing in his attic and his turbine vent was bringing hot air INTO his house and not out. " I wasn't member who could post but could have told him, his vent wasn't the dumb one, but most people believe this, even roofers. > > > See studies done in NC, take half the subdivision, close the vents, half leave them open-closed better during the humid season, but with a de-humidifyer is the best, and with a vapor barrier on the ground. Watch though if mold grows under the vapor barrier, it could get into the house. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 20, 2010 Report Share Posted May 20, 2010 Vents in the attic will let in heat when it's hot and humidity when it's humid, and let out heat in the wintertime. Hot air will hold humidity so in winter when hot air escapees, it takes whatever humidity it is carrying. Anyway, I closed up the vents in this old house and everything is much better now. This is the way it was explained to me: high energy flows toward low energy conditions. So heat is higher energy than cool, so in summer when the air outside is hot, air will flow from hot outside to inside cool IF it can get in 'somewhere'. In winter hot air is inside and it will flow toward cold, which is outside so it will exit house wherever it can to the outside. As air exits, it has to be replaced, so air will be dragged in from the opposite point or approximate opposite point, wherever it can get in. (actually where makeup air comes in is pretty complicated as it is affected by wind currents and where there is opportunity to get it, etc.) I think air currents inside a house is the hardest thing to judge except for these basics but then there are all kinds of things that can affect those!!! To omplicate things, as if they aren't already complicated enough, make up air can come THROUGH walls which may contain mold you don't know about, so can drag mold into the house that otherwise would stay in the wall. As you stated humid air is heavier so if it is humid outside and there are vents in the attic, the humid air will sink INTO those vents and go down and mix in with the drier, lighter air inside house. Where are you, in Az? > > Thank you. I argue with so many people who go with the norm & believe you have to have ventilation. See I think I have the opposite problem as you. The summer here is BONE DRY. From Oct to May or June is either rain or snow. It dried a lot here now but had 2 days of rain & the L/R ceiling is caving again. Checked the roof several times & no leaks that anyone can see (under the fluff anyway). So I really suspect that the fluff absorbs way too much humidity from the air....through the huge vents. > In reading about a low-cost whole house dehumifier once, I've found out that the most humid air actually is nearer the floor (heavier than air) unless it's steam of course. The model I saw was basically a big exhaust fan that sits in your basemet. I'm thinking an exhaust fan near the attic floor would do the trick. My house also has plenty of air leaks. The summer months would have it so dry you probably couldn't detect signs of an old leak even! > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 20, 2010 Report Share Posted May 20, 2010 Carl/: When you say a vapor barrier on the ground, you mean right on the dirt, not on a cement floor, correct? Can paint on concrete be an effective vapor barrier? > > , > > My comment on: " and with a vapor barrier on the ground. Watch > though if mold grows under the vapor barrier, it could get into the > house. " > > I agree mold can grow under the vapor barrier. But only if it is the > wrong material and not installed correctly. If the material is > technically rated as an actual barrier rather than a retarder and > properly sealed around edges and seams then the mold - neither > the spores nor the chemical components - can get through it. In > fact, because molecules cannot get out from underneath the > barrier that means air cannot get under the barrier. If air cannot > get underneath then mold cannot grow. > > A sealed barrier of the proper material will not grow mold beneath > it. An unsealed or loose barrier that is not a barrier will grow mold > beneath it. In fact, it will usually grow more mold than if there > were no barrier at all. > > Carl Grimes > Healthy Habitats LLC > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 21, 2010 Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 I agree, where I used to live in Moldy VA, just throwing som plastic under the house was considered a vapor barrier. I have seen the way it is suppossed to be done, with everythin securdly taped.I think this is hard to maintain, the tape will loosen, the barrier will tear, whenever someone has to go under the house. From scratch a rat slab of cement with a de-humidifyer going is the best, then you are free to crawl around and inspect things in the crawl space. I did this is the new house I built, but the builder built it with moldy wood, so it did not work anyway. > > , > > My comment on: " and with a vapor barrier on the ground. Watch > though if mold grows under the vapor barrier, it could get into the > house. " > > I agree mold can grow under the vapor barrier. But only if it is the > wrong material and not installed correctly. If the material is > technically rated as an actual barrier rather than a retarder and > properly sealed around edges and seams then the mold - neither > the spores nor the chemical components - can get through it. In > fact, because molecules cannot get out from underneath the > barrier that means air cannot get under the barrier. If air cannot > get underneath then mold cannot grow. > > A sealed barrier of the proper material will not grow mold beneath > it. An unsealed or loose barrier that is not a barrier will grow mold > beneath it. In fact, it will usually grow more mold than if there > were no barrier at all. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 21, 2010 Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 Thank you. Makes more sense to me that what the experts have settled upon believing. I am in Northern California. > > > > Thank you. I argue with so many people who go with the norm & believe you have to have ventilation. See I think I have the opposite problem as you. The summer here is BONE DRY. From Oct to May or June is either rain or snow. It dried a lot here now but had 2 days of rain & the L/R ceiling is caving again. Checked the roof several times & no leaks that anyone can see (under the fluff anyway). So I really suspect that the fluff absorbs way too much humidity from the air....through the huge vents. > > In reading about a low-cost whole house dehumifier once, I've found out that the most humid air actually is nearer the floor (heavier than air) unless it's steam of course. The model I saw was basically a big exhaust fan that sits in your basemet. I'm thinking an exhaust fan near the attic floor would do the trick. My house also has plenty of air leaks. The summer months would have it so dry you probably couldn't detect signs of an old leak even! > > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 21, 2010 Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 Oh Yay. Good news on my insulation. No vermiculite. One novice last winter thought it was a mix of vermiculite & cellulose. Two inspectors say definitely cellulose. The man removing it has a closed unit & does his best at keeping dust down anyway.That stuff is horrible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 22, 2010 Report Share Posted May 22, 2010 , I have not been on the group's site in a while, so I do not know if your questions were answered. I was a little concerned when I read your comment about having no ventilation in your attic. Ventilation in the attic is not necessary if an adequate vapor barrier is present to prevent moisture migration from the living space into the attic. Vapor diffusion is a strong force and moist air will always seek dry areas. Since an average family of four produces approximately 15 liters of moisture per day, the absence of vapor barriers or ventilation to remove moisture can result in condensation in the attic space. Have you checked under the blown-in insulation to see if a vapor barrier is present? Also, if there are recessed lights, these should e caged and insulated with a vapor barrier to prevent moisture migration. I have some photos of good insulation practices for recessed lights. Installing an exhaust fan near the floor of the attic could pull moist air from the living space. I have seen many attics that are properly insulated without ventilation (often referred to as the " hot deck " method), two part foam is used to completely seal the attic. I know it can be costly, but consultation from a qualified licensed engineer with expertise in ventilation is well worth the costs. Buildings need to be viewed from multi-discipline approach. Far too often egos and ignorance get in the way of good advice. Connie Morbach M.S., CHMM, CIE Sanit-Air, Inc. > > > > > > > > > See studies done in NC, take half the subdivision, close the vents, half leave them open-closed better during the humid season, but with a de-humidifyer is the best, and with a vapor barrier on the ground. Watch though if mold grows under the vapor barrier, it could get into the house. > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 22, 2010 Report Share Posted May 22, 2010 Connie, which direction are you stopping moisture when you put vapor barrier on floor of attic, under insulation? > > , > I have not been on the group's site in a while, so I do not know if your questions were answered. I was a little concerned when I read your comment about having no ventilation in your attic. Ventilation in the attic is not necessary if an adequate vapor barrier is present to prevent moisture migration from the living space into the attic. Vapor diffusion is a strong force and moist air will always seek dry areas. Since an average family of four produces approximately 15 liters of moisture per day, the absence of vapor barriers or ventilation to remove moisture can result in condensation in the attic space. Have you checked under the blown-in insulation to see if a vapor barrier is present? Also, if there are recessed lights, these should e caged and insulated with a vapor barrier to prevent moisture migration. I have some photos of good insulation practices for recessed lights. > > Installing an exhaust fan near the floor of the attic could pull moist air from the living space. > > I have seen many attics that are properly insulated without ventilation (often referred to as the " hot deck " method), two part foam is used to completely seal the attic. > > I know it can be costly, but consultation from a qualified licensed engineer with expertise in ventilation is well worth the costs. Buildings need to be viewed from multi-discipline approach. Far too often egos and ignorance get in the way of good advice. > > Connie Morbach M.S., CHMM, CIE > Sanit-Air, Inc. > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 23, 2010 Report Share Posted May 23, 2010 Hi Barb, You would be stopping the migration of moisture from the living space into the attic - this is often overlooked. Faced insulation with the vapor barrier facing downward is a common retrofit. It does not address the space under the bottom cord of the joists, but is better than no vapor barrier. > > > > , > > I have not been on the group's site in a while, so I do not know if your questions were answered. I was a little concerned when I read your comment about having no ventilation in your attic. Ventilation in the attic is not necessary if an adequate vapor barrier is present to prevent moisture migration from the living space into the attic. Vapor diffusion is a strong force and moist air will always seek dry areas. Since an average family of four produces approximately 15 liters of moisture per day, the absence of vapor barriers or ventilation to remove moisture can result in condensation in the attic space. Have you checked under the blown-in insulation to see if a vapor barrier is present? Also, if there are recessed lights, these should e caged and insulated with a vapor barrier to prevent moisture migration. I have some photos of good insulation practices for recessed lights. > > > > Installing an exhaust fan near the floor of the attic could pull moist air from the living space. > > > > I have seen many attics that are properly insulated without ventilation (often referred to as the " hot deck " method), two part foam is used to completely seal the attic. > > > > I know it can be costly, but consultation from a qualified licensed engineer with expertise in ventilation is well worth the costs. Buildings need to be viewed from multi-discipline approach. Far too often egos and ignorance get in the way of good advice. > > > > Connie Morbach M.S., CHMM, CIE > > Sanit-Air, Inc. > > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 23, 2010 Report Share Posted May 23, 2010 Correction I should have stated that ventilation " might not " be required if an adequate vapor barrier is installed. Attic ventilation/insulation should be designed to address climate conditions as well as vapor diffusion from living spaces. Sometimes completely sealing the attic works better than ventilation/insulation combinations. > > , > I have not been on the group's site in a while, so I do not know if your questions were answered. I was a little concerned when I read your comment about having no ventilation in your attic. Ventilation in the attic is not necessary if an adequate vapor barrier is present to prevent moisture migration from the living space into the attic. Vapor diffusion is a strong force and moist air will always seek dry areas. Since an average family of four produces approximately 15 liters of moisture per day, the absence of vapor barriers or ventilation to remove moisture can result in condensation in the attic space. Have you checked under the blown-in insulation to see if a vapor barrier is present? Also, if there are recessed lights, these should e caged and insulated with a vapor barrier to prevent moisture migration. I have some photos of good insulation practices for recessed lights. > > Installing an exhaust fan near the floor of the attic could pull moist air from the living space. > > I have seen many attics that are properly insulated without ventilation (often referred to as the " hot deck " method), two part foam is used to completely seal the attic. > > I know it can be costly, but consultation from a qualified licensed engineer with expertise in ventilation is well worth the costs. Buildings need to be viewed from multi-discipline approach. Far too often egos and ignorance get in the way of good advice. > > Connie Morbach M.S., CHMM, CIE > Sanit-Air, Inc. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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