Re[2]: Re: new here with questions

[Guest guest]

, you sound like my first husband!!!

Barth

www.presenting.net/sbs/sbs.html

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PB> A good home cleaning would help. I just wrote this for another list,

PB> which highlights some problem areas.

PB> --

PB> Other sources of bad smells.

PB> The duct cleaning could have put germ colonies elsewhere in your home.

PB> So, here is a check list with actions. Windows, doors, and drains,

especially

PB> the drains, as water is always present there. Sniff test everything

PB> can be very

PB> dangerous, particularly the drains, so visual inspection first, and sniff

test

PB> with caution, doing several sniffs " far away " moving closer each time.

PB> Why sniff test? You need to find that sweet flower smell right?

PB> It's good to have confirmation that an item needs severe cleaning as it

smells.

PB> Also, after cleaning sniff testing can confirm a good result. Sniff test

the

PB> next day as well, after your nose clears from the cleaning smells.

PB> And again a week later, and a month later, to be sure it is not coming back.

PB> --

PB> Windows - clean all frames, frame drains (in horizontal sliding

PB> aluminum bottom sill - use a pipe cleaner and force out all the dirt

PB> to the outside), and the fuzzy weather seal clean that too - outside

PB> so the fuzzies do not coat your rooms.

PB> --

PB> Door frames, hinges, top of the door, bottom of the door, hinge side

PB> of the door. Clean them all.

PB> You may have to take the door off the hinges, or use a mirror to

PB> visually inspect the door bottom.

PB> Door frame bottom 'bumps' (I forget the name all the time- the

PB> weather stripping on the floor).

PB> I removed the screws and found the worse junk to vacuum, then

PB> disinfect, then sunlight UV disinfect.

PB> You might also want to slide out the rubber from the metal frame and

PB> clean both, including inside the rubber tube, with hot, running,

PB> forceful water.

PB> Door bottom weather stripping, if present. Clean and then

PB> disinfect. Both sides.

PB> Door frame weather stripping. Visually inspect. Remove and replace

PB> if necessary.

PB> Cleaning is hard unless removed, and if you remove it, the cost of

PB> replacement is low,

PB> and avoids the cleaning and disinfection, which may not be complete,

PB> not as good as

PB> a replacement. Match the replacement first, as your local hardware

PB> store might not

PB> have matching replacement, in color, size, or hole spacing.

PB> Door frames, particular the moulding, both inside and outside doors.

PB> Particularly the top of the top moulding, as that is a dust collector

PB> that is rarely cleaned. I clean mine every month.

PB> Door frames where it meets the carpeting. Carpeting must be trimmed around

PB> door frames and it's rarely done to fit. So, there are gaps that

PB> dust collects in.

PB> Bad dust. Lots of it. Vacuum cleaner time. WARNING: it can be BAD!!!!

PB> Years worth accumulate, 30-40 years, as most people never clean here.

PB> --

PB> Check your sink and shower drains. Visually inspect with a

PB> flashlight the inner drain pipe walls for mold or algae, or other

PB> growths. You should see clean copper color in all cases.

PB> Disinfect them with 1/2 cup vinegar for 30 minutes, then flush with 2

PB> gallons of water.

PB> Vinegar will react with iron S traps creating crystal towers, about

PB> 1/8 inch in diameter,

PB> and block the drain, if the vinegar is left in there longer.

PB> You may have to scrub them clean. Even disassemble if a forceful

PB> spray of water

PB> will not dislodge the growths. A bottle brush is good to have. Some

PB> drain covers

PB> have a screw to take off the cover.

PB> When ever I move into a new place, I now take apart the S trap under the

sinks,

PB> and clean them thoroughly, and sunlight dry them for a day for the UV

PB> disinfection

PB> into the pores of the copper that scrubbing and vinegar did not reach.

PB> --

PB> Closet rails, either top or bottom rails. Clean and disinfect.

PB> Closet doors, remove and clean all sides, including the edges.

PB> Warning, do not use harsh cleaners, just light soap and light water.

PB> Some door substances can react.

PB> --

PB> Shower doors. Remove and clean all over. PAY GOOD ATTENTION to the top of

the

PB> door, and the bottom of the door. The top collects dust. The bottom

PB> is always wet and

PB> never gets direct light. Both grow mold.

PB> The shower door frame. Use a mirror and flashlight to inspect.

PB> I now will disassemble any frames I move into, and reseal with fresh caulk,

PB> as the old caulk, the many layers, who knows what was concealed.

PB> I want to know, and have fresh caulk. Many apartment owners will do this

PB> for you for free, but that is not as good as my visual inspection and razor

PB> blade scrapping of all 'junk' out of my home.

PB> --

PB> Sliding doors... you should know the drill by now. Remove CAREFULLY.

PB> Do not lay flat on the ground. Stepping on them will break the glass.

PB> Do not lean against anything but a flat wall. Move slowly, deliberately.

PB> When these large glass doors break, they put glass all over.

PB> And it's hundreds of dollars to replace one, $400-700 or more now.

PB> The stationary side of the sliding door ... yes, clean everything you can

see,

PB> particularly the bottom, both inside and outside.

PB> Caulk the stationary side. I did. The difference was huge.

PB> No cold breezes in. My heating costs dropped in half.

PB> And the smell difference was HUGE (but I had sewer gas leaking in).

PB> --