Re: Building question Carl Help !

[Guest guest]

,

I apologize for not being able to answer questions - they are

exactly what needs to be addressed - but they require more detail

than can be reliably assessed long distance and via e-mail. I'm

not confident I fully comprehend the situation with the flashing,

especially in light of the other issues, including the bottom 3 feet.

Is there a local contractor who could come out to visually inspect

and advise you?

Carl Grimes

Healthy Habitats LLC

-----

Thank you in advance Carl... & glad you're back :-) There is L-shaped

metal flashing on the 2 sides that the deck butts up against the house.

Found it because I asked to have a sliver of deck removed since it was

obvious there was wicking - deck wood near the house would stay dry

through days of rain & then start to get wetter & wetter gradually moving

towards & reaching the side of the house. Well the L-shaped flashing

extended up the side about 5 " (guessing on size) & under the deck about

5 " out (hope that made sense). Although it's metal it doesn't seem right

to me. Metal siding will go over the new wood on the house (of furring) &

I think it should extend a bit below the deck. So leave off the flashing

altogether? Replace with a flat piece of metal? My thoughts - not

necessary at all. Thanks.

PS Don't think I'm out of hot water yet. The bottom 3 ft of the house is

open to the outside & the window & sliding glass door opened & it still

smells pretty strong within 5 ft of the area (from the outside when I'm

standing upwind). In my last life I was a bloodhound :-)

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[Guest guest]

Thanks. The contractor & I put our heads together & made a plan. Other issues

with the deck existed. Yes it is hard to describe.

Can you handle another question? Contractor says that " in the real world " the

bituthene goes over the studs, then the ply then the siding. Because of

tolerance issues I almost think I'd rather the ply, then the bituthene then the

metal. Would that be a horrendous mistake?

>

> ,

>

> I apologize for not being able to answer questions - they are

> exactly what needs to be addressed - but they require more detail

> than can be reliably assessed long distance and via e-mail. I'm

> not confident I fully comprehend the situation with the flashing,

> especially in light of the other issues, including the bottom 3 feet.

> Is there a local contractor who could come out to visually inspect

> and advise you?

>

> Carl Grimes

> Healthy Habitats LLC

[Guest guest]

,

Aside from some other issues, my question is " What is he

protecting from moisture? The studs, the plywood, or the other

side of the (interior) wall? "

If the bituthene goes on the studs only the studs will have a layer

of moisture protection and it won't stop moisture from going into

the wall assembly and out the other side. So unless his " real

world " is different than mine or unless I'm not understanding the

purpose I'd say it goes on the broad surface, not the supporting

narrow studs.

Or is he just wanting to protect the bottom two feet of the studs?

What about the sill plate?

Carl Grimes

Healthy Habitats LLC

-----

Thanks. The contractor & I put our heads together & made a plan. Other issues

with the deck existed. Yes it is hard to describe.

Can you handle another question? Contractor says that " in the real world " the

bituthene goes over the studs, then the ply then the siding. Because of

tolerance issues I almost think I'd rather the ply, then the bituthene then the

metal. Would that be a horrendous mistake?

>

> ,

>

> I apologize for not being able to answer questions - they are

> exactly what needs to be addressed - but they require more detail

> than can be reliably assessed long distance and via e-mail. I'm

> not confident I fully comprehend the situation with the flashing,

> especially in light of the other issues, including the bottom 3 feet.

> Is there a local contractor who could come out to visually inspect

> and advise you?

>

> Carl Grimes

> Healthy Habitats LLC

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[Guest guest]

Carl, Looking from the outside, say, the bituthene would be under the plywood

(wrapping the wall like housewrap) so the reasoning I imagine is that if the ply

got wet/damp the wall cavity is protected. My thinking is that if the cladding

leaks (which Building Science says it will) you want the bituthene over the ply

(between the plywood & cladding in other words) to protect the ply...so the

cavity is protected.

I just posted another message about this before I saw your response & wondered

if it's best to skip the bituthene & let it breathe. Since it's an old house

B.S. " Mind The Gap " says that houses used to have paper-faced insulation,

plywood sheathing & cladding... period. Along came OSB, housewraps & more

insulation & more WDB's until they figured out how to compensate. I'll go the

old fashioned way thank you. The sill plate will be covered by the metal... &

I'll probably stick my 2 cents in every nook & cranny to make sure I like the

way everything is lining up. The metal will overlap the foundation wall a

bit..oh gee, or should the metal go to the ground ? Thanks again Carl.

>

> ,

>

> Aside from some other issues, my question is " What is he

> protecting from moisture? The studs, the plywood, or the other

> side of the (interior) wall? "

>

> If the bituthene goes on the studs only the studs will have a layer

> of moisture protection and it won't stop moisture from going into

> the wall assembly and out the other side. So unless his " real

> world " is different than mine or unless I'm not understanding the

> purpose I'd say it goes on the broad surface, not the supporting

> narrow studs.

>

> Or is he just wanting to protect the bottom two feet of the studs?

> What about the sill plate?

>

> Carl Grimes

> Healthy Habitats LLC