Guest guest Posted September 17, 2010 Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 I have had experience with this type of stucco insulation. Make sure the EPS is at least 4 " abouve grde or it will wick up water behind it and feed on the glue. Don't put the EPS anywhere except against the cement. If you can get away with no insulation, just stucco against the cement black and nothing will ever mold . > > This is what a contractor who did a nice job on my mom's house said > about the building that the other contractor suggested hardy board for.... > > any views on this approach, i personally don't like the idea of > styrofoam, but.... > > The front > and the side facing the main street have been remodeled at some point. > Since the > entire building is concrete block it appears that those two sides have been > furred out with wood strips and a 1/4 " stucco board look siding was poorly > applied to it and rapidly deteriating. The upper section with the tenants > signage that runs the length of the building is furred out even further and > appears to have some real dry rot issues that were obviously covered > over with > paint. My suggestion is that those two sides be stripped down to the concrete > block and then apply the modern day verson of stucco. Which consists of > a layer > of styrfoam backing, a cement based finish coat and then the final > spray coat of > the colored stucco finish. This option I think is the most versatile for this > application, given the age of the building and will be the most > cost effective > way to achieve a ultra low maintenance exterior finish. > > > besides trying to understand healthy & good construction approaches, > what amazes me is this guy is saying the building needs $40-50K of work, > while a year ago he took a careful look and came up with $15K of needed > repairs vs. the hardy board contractor suggesting a few thousand dollars > of repairs.... > > sue v. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted September 17, 2010 Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 This article Face Luft for Old Buildings may help you decide. http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-013-face-lift-for-old-buil\ dings/?searchterm=face%20lift > > This is what a contractor who did a nice job on my mom's house said > about the building that the other contractor suggested hardy board for.... > > any views on this approach, i personally don't like the idea of > styrofoam, but.... > > The front > and the side facing the main street have been remodeled at some point. > Since the > entire building is concrete block it appears that those two sides have been > furred out with wood strips and a 1/4 " stucco board look siding was poorly > applied to it and rapidly deteriating. The upper section with the tenants > signage that runs the length of the building is furred out even further and > appears to have some real dry rot issues that were obviously covered > over with > paint. My suggestion is that those two sides be stripped down to the concrete > block and then apply the modern day verson of stucco. Which consists of > a layer > of styrfoam backing, a cement based finish coat and then the final > spray coat of > the colored stucco finish. This option I think is the most versatile for this > application, given the age of the building and will be the most > cost effective > way to achieve a ultra low maintenance exterior finish. > > > besides trying to understand healthy & good construction approaches, > what amazes me is this guy is saying the building needs $40-50K of work, > while a year ago he took a careful look and came up with $15K of needed > repairs vs. the hardy board contractor suggesting a few thousand dollars > of repairs.... > > sue v. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted September 17, 2010 Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 looks interesting, i will read. thanks, sue v >http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-013-face-lift-for-old-bui\ ldings/?searchterm=face%20lift Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted September 17, 2010 Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 The other article I sent the link on wasn't the one I had in mind - but food for thought anyway. This one is the one I was thinking of. Small Sacrifices http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-011-capillarity-small-sacr\ ifices?searchterm=small+sacrifices > > This is what a contractor who did a nice job on my mom's house said > about the building that the other contractor suggested hardy board for.... > > any views on this approach, i personally don't like the idea of > styrofoam, but.... > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 thanks for the advice, i have since gone back and forth with this contractor, he is going to rebid with the hardy board approach, say hardie board has 30 year guarantee, you have to make sure it stays well caulked, and may need to do some recaulking, get good paint and the paint job should last 7-10 years, it's a cheaper approach and that is what i need, so will not use this kind of insulation. cheers, sue wrote: I have had experience with this type of stucco insulation. Make sure the >EPS is at least 4 " abouve grde or it will wick up water behind it and >feed on the glue. Don't put the EPS anywhere except against the cement. >If you can get away with no insulation, just stucco against the cement >black and nothing will ever mold . > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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