No one to sue, no one to blame

[Guest guest]

We have no one to sue for our mold problems at all, at least not that we can

think of. We spent $2000 today to get a mold expert to check out our home, he

found that our HVAC until was really backed up and flooded with water inside and

out, has probably been this way for years and although mold is visible we do

not know the type yet until samples come back, but based on our ilnesses,

expecially mine, we know it's toxic. 6 years of pure hell and no one to blame.

Mia

[Guest guest]

Mia,

I am so sorry that you have been suffering for six years and no one told

you your symptoms could be from mold and other contaminants that are found in

water damaged buildings.

Today, I sent a message to the Commissioner of the Minn Health Dept

thanking them for putting out a health advisory that is accurate, brief and easy

to understand. I asked if they could take proactive measures to share their

great work with others. Maybe this could help to increase the training

and change the mindset of all Health Depts so that what has happened to you,

happens to no one else:

Best of success of a home habitable for you and your family,

Sharon K

In a message dated 7/17/2010 5:44:25 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,

mariaharrod@... writes:

We have no one to sue for our mold problems at all, at least not that we

can think of. We spent $2000 today to get a mold expert to check out our

home, he found that our HVAC until was really backed up and flooded with water

inside and out, has probably been this way for years and although mold is

visible we do not know the type yet until samples come back, but based on

our ilnesses, expecially mine, we know it's toxic. 6 years of pure hell and

no one to blame.

Mia

[Guest guest]

Air conditioning has been discussed several times before. It is my favorite

topic, since a very moldy HVAC in my workplace of 32 years was the source of my

health problem. I suspect your central AC is old, and you will probably want to

replace it. If so, there are a few things you can request that most companies do

not provide standard. You can also use these suggestions for remediating an

older functionable system.

1. Demand that your new unit include an access door so you will be able to have

the coils and drain pan periodically cleaned. This can also be installed on an

old unit if you are not getting new. This panel also allows you to put a small

amount of dilute chlorine bleach into the pan monthly to prevent the drain line

from getting plugged. Or better yet, you can use this access door to place AC

disinfectant tablets in the drain pan. These are available at Lowes and Home

Depot. This will eliminate the need for bleach.

2. As the new unit is being installed, before the coils are covered, pour 2

cups water into the drain pan. If it does not drain completely, have the

installer correct the drain pan level so it does drain completely.

3. Make sure the plenum (air distribution box) is sheet metal, not fiberglass

ductboard, and there is no interior fibrous insulation. These have been shown to

trap dust and moisture, providing mold growth habitat. Air distribution lines

ideally should be sheet metal, but many contractors insist on flexduct. It's not

as mold resistant as sheet metal, but better than ductboard. For an even

healthier system, some sheet metal retards biofilm growth, such as Agion

Technology from AK Steel.

4. Make sure the filter housing to furnace junction is properly sealed. A poor

job will allow unfiltered air to flow around filters allowing dust (mold

nutrient) to contaminate the new coils.

5. Beware of furnace humidifiers. These can contribute to the same type

problems you now have. With just a little dust, they can be bioaerosol

reservoirs. Do not believe the hype that humidifiers will improve your health.

Most homes generate enough humidity from cooking, laundry, and bathing.

6. Make sure good filters are used from day 1. Don't waste your money on cheap

fiberglass filters. 3M Filtretes are pretty good, as are some by Purolator and

other companies. Better still are the 5 inch thick filters sold by your

contractor, though very expensive. (Electronic air filters do not remove what

bothers me, and also produce trace ozone, a respiratory irritant.) But remember,

the best filters are useless if the installation isn't done properly.

7. After it's running, make sure you change filters at the proper intervals.

8. As discussed recently, consider running the fan continuously, and letting

the fan run 2-3 hours after turning off the AC. This will evaporate any

remaining water on the coils or in the drain pan, preventing the air handler

relative humidity from getting any higher than that in the house. If doing so

raises relative humidity in your house, that means the drain pan is holding

water and was not leveled correctly when installed. Some furnaces have variable

speed fans, meant to run continuously. They slow considerably when there is no

heating or cooling occuring, but still move the air sufficiently through the

plenum.

I hope this helps.

Gil

No one to sue, no one to blame

Posted by: " Mia " mariaharrod@... mia2amazeu

Date: Sat Jul 17, 2010 5:44 pm ((PDT))

We have no one to sue for our mold problems at all, at least not that we can

think of. We spent $2000 today to get a mold expert to check out our home, he

found that our HVAC until was really backed up and flooded with water inside and

out, has probably been this way for years and although mold is visible we do not

know the type yet until samples come back, but based on our ilnesses, expecially

mine, we know it's toxic. 6 years of pure hell and no one to blame.

Mia

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[Guest guest]

Gil,

Excellent post as always. I'd add only one more item.

The heat exchanger and A/C coils usually have a coating of machine oil which

will out gas. Because they are semi volatile rather than volatile it takes

weeks to months depending on use and your sensitivity.

Have the installers remove this coating before they bring it to your house.

Usually a two step process. Solvent to remove the oil then hot water with a safe

detergent to remove the solvent.

Do not listen to the salesman or installer when they tell you " oh, don't worry

because it will burn off.

Ask them " where does it go? " It goes into the air and is now distributed

throughout the house. Good luck removing that from everything!

Then ask them what burns the oil off the A/C coils? They don't get hot.

This procedure is usually sufficient but occasionally it isn't. If you are

extremely sensitive to this type of substance I suggest you personally test the

equipment before they install it.

Carl Grimes

Healthy Habitats LLC

(fm my Blackberry)

[] Re: No one to sue, no one to blame

Air conditioning has been discussed several times before. It is my favorite

topic, since a very moldy HVAC in my workplace of 32 years was the source of my

health problem. I suspect your central AC is old, and you will probably want to

replace it. If so, there are a few things you can request that most companies do

not provide standard. You can also use these suggestions for remediating an

older functionable system.

1. Demand that your new unit include an access door so you will be able to have

the coils and drain pan periodically cleaned. This can also be installed on an

old unit if you are not getting new. This panel also allows you to put a small

amount of dilute chlorine bleach into the pan monthly to prevent the drain line

from getting plugged. Or better yet, you can use this access door to place AC

disinfectant tablets in the drain pan. These are available at Lowes and Home

Depot. This will eliminate the need for bleach.

2. As the new unit is being installed, before the coils are covered, pour 2

cups water into the drain pan. If it does not drain completely, have the

installer correct the drain pan level so it does drain completely.

3. Make sure the plenum (air distribution box) is sheet metal, not fiberglass

ductboard, and there is no interior fibrous insulation. These have been shown to

trap dust and moisture, providing mold growth habitat. Air distribution lines

ideally should be sheet metal, but many contractors insist on flexduct. It's not

as mold resistant as sheet metal, but better than ductboard. For an even

healthier system, some sheet metal retards biofilm growth, such as Agion

Technology from AK Steel.

4. Make sure the filter housing to furnace junction is properly sealed. A poor

job will allow unfiltered air to flow around filters allowing dust (mold

nutrient) to contaminate the new coils.

5. Beware of furnace humidifiers. These can contribute to the same type

problems you now have. With just a little dust, they can be bioaerosol

reservoirs. Do not believe the hype that humidifiers will improve your health.

Most homes generate enough humidity from cooking, laundry, and bathing.

6. Make sure good filters are used from day 1. Don't waste your money on cheap

fiberglass filters. 3M Filtretes are pretty good, as are some by Purolator and

other companies. Better still are the 5 inch thick filters sold by your

contractor, though very expensive. (Electronic air filters do not remove what

bothers me, and also produce trace ozone, a respiratory irritant.) But remember,

the best filters are useless if the installation isn't done properly.

7. After it's running, make sure you change filters at the proper intervals.

8. As discussed recently, consider running the fan continuously, and letting

the fan run 2-3 hours after turning off the AC. This will evaporate any

remaining water on the coils or in the drain pan, preventing the air handler

relative humidity from getting any higher than that in the house. If doing so

raises relative humidity in your house, that means the drain pan is holding

water and was not leveled correctly when installed. Some furnaces have variable

speed fans, meant to run continuously. They slow considerably when there is no

heating or cooling occuring, but still move the air sufficiently through the

plenum.

I hope this helps.

Gil

No one to sue, no one to blame

Posted by: " Mia " mariaharrod@... mia2amazeu

Date: Sat Jul 17, 2010 5:44 pm ((PDT))

We have no one to sue for our mold problems at all, at least not that we can

think of. We spent $2000 today to get a mold expert to check out our home, he

found that our HVAC until was really backed up and flooded with water inside and

out, has probably been this way for years and although mold is visible we do not

know the type yet until samples come back, but based on our ilnesses, expecially

mine, we know it's toxic. 6 years of pure hell and no one to blame.

Mia

_________________________________________________________________

Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.

http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en\

-US:WM_HMP:042010_1

[Guest guest]

Carl: Do the portable air conditioners that you install in a window have the

machine oil on the coils also? My son just purchased two of them. Thanks~ Diane

>

> Gil,

>

> Excellent post as always. I'd add only one more item.

>

> The heat exchanger and A/C coils usually have a coating of machine oil which

will out gas. Because they are semi volatile rather than volatile it takes

weeks to months depending on use and your sensitivity.

>

> Have the installers remove this coating before they bring it to your house.

Usually a two step process. Solvent to remove the oil then hot water with a safe

detergent to remove the solvent.

>

> Do not listen to the salesman or installer when they tell you " oh, don't worry

because it will burn off.

>

> Ask them " where does it go? " It goes into the air and is now distributed

throughout the house. Good luck removing that from everything!

>

> Then ask them what burns the oil off the A/C coils? They don't get hot.

>

> This procedure is usually sufficient but occasionally it isn't. If you are

extremely sensitive to this type of substance I suggest you personally test the

equipment before they install it.

>

>

> Carl Grimes

> Healthy Habitats LLC

> (fm my Blackberry)

>

> [] Re: No one to sue, no one to blame

>

>

> Air conditioning has been discussed several times before. It is my favorite

topic, since a very moldy HVAC in my workplace of 32 years was the source of my

health problem. I suspect your central AC is old, and you will probably want to

replace it. If so, there are a few things you can request that most companies do

not provide standard. You can also use these suggestions for remediating an

older functionable system.

>

>

>

> 1. Demand that your new unit include an access door so you will be able to

have the coils and drain pan periodically cleaned. This can also be installed on

an old unit if you are not getting new. This panel also allows you to put a

small amount of dilute chlorine bleach into the pan monthly to prevent the drain

line from getting plugged. Or better yet, you can use this access door to place

AC disinfectant tablets in the drain pan. These are available at Lowes and Home

Depot. This will eliminate the need for bleach.

>

> 2. As the new unit is being installed, before the coils are covered, pour 2

cups water into the drain pan. If it does not drain completely, have the

installer correct the drain pan level so it does drain completely.

>

> 3. Make sure the plenum (air distribution box) is sheet metal, not fiberglass

ductboard, and there is no interior fibrous insulation. These have been shown to

trap dust and moisture, providing mold growth habitat. Air distribution lines

ideally should be sheet metal, but many contractors insist on flexduct. It's not

as mold resistant as sheet metal, but better than ductboard. For an even

healthier system, some sheet metal retards biofilm growth, such as Agion

Technology from AK Steel.

>

> 4. Make sure the filter housing to furnace junction is properly sealed. A

poor job will allow unfiltered air to flow around filters allowing dust (mold

nutrient) to contaminate the new coils.

>

> 5. Beware of furnace humidifiers. These can contribute to the same type

problems you now have. With just a little dust, they can be bioaerosol

reservoirs. Do not believe the hype that humidifiers will improve your health.

Most homes generate enough humidity from cooking, laundry, and bathing.

>

> 6. Make sure good filters are used from day 1. Don't waste your money on

cheap fiberglass filters. 3M Filtretes are pretty good, as are some by Purolator

and other companies. Better still are the 5 inch thick filters sold by your

contractor, though very expensive. (Electronic air filters do not remove what

bothers me, and also produce trace ozone, a respiratory irritant.) But remember,

the best filters are useless if the installation isn't done properly.

>

> 7. After it's running, make sure you change filters at the proper intervals.

>

> 8. As discussed recently, consider running the fan continuously, and letting

the fan run 2-3 hours after turning off the AC. This will evaporate any

remaining water on the coils or in the drain pan, preventing the air handler

relative humidity from getting any higher than that in the house. If doing so

raises relative humidity in your house, that means the drain pan is holding

water and was not leveled correctly when installed. Some furnaces have variable

speed fans, meant to run continuously. They slow considerably when there is no

heating or cooling occuring, but still move the air sufficiently through the

plenum.

>

> I hope this helps.

> >

> Gil

[Guest guest]

im going to have a new box and a/c coils installed sometime this week thanks for

the info Gil & Carl

>

>

> Air conditioning has been discussed several times before. It is my favorite

topic, since a very moldy HVAC in my workplace of 32 years was the source of my

health problem. I suspect your central AC is old, and you will probably want to

replace it. If so, there are a few things you can request that most companies do

not provide standard. You can also use these suggestions for remediating an

older functionable system.