Guest guest Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Kathy, I would agree with Carl that the windows will not offgas much (until you can open them in the spring). And it is a good idea to experiment with one or two windows first. But if you can make the plastic seal at the window truly airtight, there should not be much moisture from the house getting into the trapped-air space. So making the plastic seal airtight is the challenge. Then you can monitor the window. If a little frost forms, I would not worry. Watch it, if it melts and liquid water is on wood, than you have to open it up and dry it out. I would also put a container of DampRid (calcium chloride drying agent) inside the vapor barrier, along with a porous-lined bag of activated charcoal (to take up some of the odor). The DampRid and charcoal should be at the top where the warm air rises and the (since there is a convection cycle of air in the window). It maybe counter intuitive to put the drying agent at the top because ice forms at the bottom of the glass but that is because it is coldest at the bottom. You have a better chance of taking up the moisture from the air at the top where the air is warmer. May May Indoor Air Investigations LLC Tyngsborough, MA www.mayindoorair.com 978-649-1055 VAPORBARRIER POSTED BY: \ " BAAHSTUN@...\ " BAAHSTUN@... BAAHSTUN Sun Jan 30, 2011 5:07 pm (PST) Hi Group- Hoping to get some experience/feedback/opinions/expertise from you folks on one of the presented options for my toxic windows. Right after the install and as soon as I realized the VOC problem, immediately did phone consults w/both my Canadian and also Texas based environ consultants. One had a recommendation that I am having a hard time wrapping my brain around...and that is to vapor barrier my windows until the point in time where they have offgassed enough for personal tolerance. I was very caught off guard by this recommendation. I've done vapor barrier applications in the past but never involving as many multiple potential high moisture areas as what I will need to cover. Or maybe it's not as much moisture potential as I am making it out to be. I have 13 total windows in my house, all casements, many w/duplicate sashes for a total of 24 . So it's a lot of area to be covered involving the one main wall in every single room. I also live in one of the snowiest places in the US with extreme long cold winters and short cool summers. We are a total haven for moisture accumulation and am surprised that every mold in the universe hasn't migrated and set up shop here..lol..although I'm sure we have some unique indigenous species. Anyway, because this involves our weather extremes, exterior walls and windows....I am scared to death that if covered, I will start a moisture problem. In case it's a factor for any potential responses...my new windows are fir wood/triple pane/triple e/double argon and the jams were internally vapor barriered upon install. The exterior of my house is cedar channel, Obdyke House Slicker, wrap and then wall sheathing. That all said, sure would appreciate your feedback. Kathy PS: Please note that I have no financial or vested interest in any person, place, object or anything else mentioned in this posting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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