floor board and drywall to use?

[Guest guest]

Hi, I am new to this wonderful group and I have a few questions. We will be

replacing some ceiling drywall in a bedroom because of a leak , and also some

floor board, because the leaks under the kitchen sink have ruined the bottom of

the cabinet as well as the floor - in fact we will probably be replacing most of

the subfloor in the kitchen. What do you recommend as the safest products for

these jobs?

Thanks!

in GA

[Guest guest]

,

There are several issues intermingled.

Safe for the building or safe for you? Safe because they have

less outgassing or safe because they won't get water damaged

as much? How susceptible are you to water damage and the

resulting bacteria and mold? Is your reactivity a nuisance or life

threatening? Do you have trouble tolerating chemical sources

such as paint, adhesives, new particle board, disinfectants?

The answers help determine which of the many options for

products you might select.

The bottom of the cabinets should at least be pulled out and

inspected for mold, bacteria and water damage. If they can't be

easily cleaned or remediated then they should be replaced. If this

event is covered by insurance they should include the cabinets.

Some don't object but others, of course, object to everything.

Carl Grimes

Healthy Habitats LLC

-----

Hi, I am new to this wonderful group and I have a few questions. We will

be replacing some ceiling drywall in a bedroom because of a leak , and

also some floor board, because the leaks under the kitchen sink have

ruined the bottom of the cabinet as well as the floor - in fact we will

probably be replacing most of the subfloor in the kitchen. What do you

recommend as the safest products for these jobs?

Thanks!

in GA

[Guest guest]

DensArmorPlus by Geogia Pacific is the least toxic drywall I found. Have samples

but haven't used it yet. I hear it's hard to sink a screw it it & it's best to

drill a hole w/ drill in reverse first. I also hear it's hard to avoid the seams

showing because of the texture of DAP.

I'll be going with a plaster veneer over the whole wall. Master of Plaster brand

is premixed, non-toxic inmgredients & seems easier to work with than others.

Murco is another non-toxic " mud " .

for floors

Someone said they reacted to the PureBond plywood.

I have samples of Plyboo & they were great - but $250 a sheet !

For floor covering my Marmoleum sample was fine until it was exposed to a damp

room & then it sorta smelled like it was so natural it would smell decayed

quickly. Hard to explain but didn't seem good for my damp house. I may go with a

no-formadehyde plywood my local hardware has (not sure if it " no " or " low " ) as

flooring ... & not use the room for awhile. If I do I'll finish it with Bioshield

products.I used 2 coats of the hard oil # 9 on one floor. It's takes a while to

offgas (affected my sinuses) but it's better now after 9 days. I'm not using the

room now. I have low humidity - the odor was much worse at night when the

humidity rises a bit. In a few days I'll use the wax #39 as the final coat.

>

> Hi, I am new to this wonderful group and I have a few questions. We will be

replacing some ceiling drywall in a bedroom because of a leak , and also some

floor board, because the leaks under the kitchen sink have ruined the bottom of

the cabinet as well as the floor - in fact we will probably be replacing most of

the subfloor in the kitchen. What do you recommend as the safest products for

these jobs?

>

> Thanks!

> in GA

>

>

>

[Guest guest]

Safe for me. Less outgassing AND hopefully effective at doing the job of keeping

down water damage. My reactivity would be considered a nuisance. However I am a

4+ yr br ca survivor. I am very concerned about materials that we put in the

house. I have had seasonal allergies my whole life but the older I get the more

chemicals and mold do bother me. I take zyrtec everyday so that helps!

Thanks

>

> ,

>

> There are several issues intermingled.

>

> Safe for the building or safe for you? Safe because they have

> less outgassing or safe because they won't get water damaged

> as much? How susceptible are you to water damage and the

> resulting bacteria and mold? Is your reactivity a nuisance or life

> threatening? Do you have trouble tolerating chemical sources

> such as paint, adhesives, new particle board, disinfectants?

>

> The answers help determine which of the many options for

> products you might select.

>

> The bottom of the cabinets should at least be pulled out and

> inspected for mold, bacteria and water damage. If they can't be

> easily cleaned or remediated then they should be replaced. If this

> event is covered by insurance they should include the cabinets.

> Some don't object but others, of course, object to everything.

>

> Carl Grimes

> Healthy Habitats LLC

>

[Guest guest]

Thank you so much for this info . I am printing it off and will take it to

Lowe's with me!

>

> DensArmorPlus by Geogia Pacific is the least toxic drywall I found. Have

samples but haven't used it yet. I hear it's hard to sink a screw it it & it's

best to drill a hole w/ drill in reverse first. I also hear it's hard to avoid

the seams showing because of the texture of DAP.

> I'll be going with a plaster veneer over the whole wall. Master of Plaster

brand is premixed, non-toxic inmgredients & seems easier to work with than

others. Murco is another non-toxic " mud " .

> for floors

> Someone said they reacted to the PureBond plywood.

> I have samples of Plyboo & they were great - but $250 a sheet !

> For floor covering my Marmoleum sample was fine until it was exposed to a damp

room & then it sorta smelled like it was so natural it would smell decayed

quickly. Hard to explain but didn't seem good for my damp house. I may go with a

no-formadehyde plywood my local hardware has (not sure if it " no " or " low " ) as

flooring ... & not use the room for awhile. If I do I'll finish it with Bioshield

products.I used 2 coats of the hard oil # 9 on one floor. It's takes a while to

offgas (affected my sinuses) but it's better now after 9 days. I'm not using the

room now. I have low humidity - the odor was much worse at night when the

humidity rises a bit. In a few days I'll use the wax #39 as the final coat.

>

>

[Guest guest]

,

Safe for me.

* I need more information about your experiences with what you

react to and what you don't react to. What others say is a useful

starting point but doesn't mean it will be true for you. You have to

determine what is true for you, even if it is true for only you and

no one else.

hopefully effective at doing the job of keeping down water damage.

* Sources of water, including condensation, must be controlled

then even paper and cardboard won't grow mold. But for places

like bathrooms and kitchens then materials which won't grow

mold as easily should be used.

My reactivity would be considered a nuisance.

* That's good news! This makes it much easier to control and

avoid than for someone whose reactivity is life altering or

disabling. That said, beware the accumulation of multiple small

sources of exposure, the total combination of which can lead to

more serious issues.

However I am a 4+ yr br ca survivor.

* What a " br ca survivor " ? I'm guessing breast cancer?

I am very concerned about materials that we put in the house. I have had

seasonal allergies my whole life but the older I get the more chemicals

and mold do bother me. I take zyrtec everyday so that helps!

* The success of zyrtec for you is a good sign and consistent with

your statement above that the exposures are a nuisance.

However, because of the increasing awareness of the connection

between chemical exposure and cancers of various types it is

wise to not bring chemical sources into your home unnecessarily.

Read labels carefully and get the Material Safety Data Sheet

(MSDS) to learn what the manufacturers reveal being in the

product. Those are starting points. Learn more by continuing to

ask questions and participating in groups like this one.

Answers which are more specific, rather than general, require a

more detailed profile of your susceptibilites and the comparative

impact of each.

Carl Grimes

Healthy Habitats LLC

-----

Thanks

--- In , " Carl E. Grimes " <grimes@...>

wrote:

>

> ,

>

> There are several issues intermingled.

>

> Safe for the building or safe for you? Safe because they have

> less outgassing or safe because they won't get water damaged

> as much? How susceptible are you to water damage and the

> resulting bacteria and mold? Is your reactivity a nuisance or life

> threatening? Do you have trouble tolerating chemical sources

> such as paint, adhesives, new particle board, disinfectants?

>

> The answers help determine which of the many options for

> products you might select.

>

> The bottom of the cabinets should at least be pulled out and

> inspected for mold, bacteria and water damage. If they can't be

> easily cleaned or remediated then they should be replaced. If this

> event is covered by insurance they should include the cabinets.

> Some don't object but others, of course, object to everything.

>

> Carl Grimes

> Healthy Habitats LLC

>

----------

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[Guest guest]

, Is the dens armour plus very heavy, seems to have someting like cement in

it. (Please overlook typos, my computer keyboard is not working as of a couple

days ago). Is it the same as or similar to 'green board'. I have to put some

wall board up too.

>

> DensArmorPlus by Geogia Pacific is the least toxic drywall I found. Have

samples but haven't used it yet. I hear it's hard to sink a screw it it & it's

best to drill a hole w/ drill in reverse first. I also hear it's hard to avoid

the seams showing because of the texture of DAP.

> I'll be going with a plaster veneer over the whole wall. Master of Plaster

brand is premixed, non-toxic inmgredients & seems easier to work with than

others. Murco is another non-toxic " mud " .

> for floors

> Someone said they reacted to the PureBond plywood.

> I have samples of Plyboo & they were great - but $250 a sheet !

> For floor covering my Marmoleum sample was fine until it was exposed to a damp

room & then it sorta smelled like it was so natural it would smell decayed

quickly. Hard to explain but didn't seem good for my damp house. I may go with a

no-formadehyde plywood my local hardware has (not sure if it " no " or " low " ) as

flooring ... & not use the room for awhile. If I do I'll finish it with Bioshield

products.I used 2 coats of the hard oil # 9 on one floor. It's takes a while to

offgas (affected my sinuses) but it's better now after 9 days. I'm not using the

room now. I have low humidity - the odor was much worse at night when the

humidity rises a bit. In a few days I'll use the wax #39 as the final coat.

>

>

[Guest guest]

I just have small samples (5 " X 7 " or so). I'm new to home-remodeling so I'm

unfamiliar with regular drywall to compare it to. DAP is dense. Reminds me of a

slab of chalk without the dust if I had to compare it with something. It doesn't

have nooks & crannies in it like Wonderboard or Durock. I ran it under running

water & it didn't change except smelled even less. One contractor left some

outside in the rain for 3 weeks & said it actually could've still been used.

It's very hard & it doesn't dimple like traditional drywall when you screw it on

- that's why it was suggested to pre-drill holes with the drill in reverse. All

these little details I'm giving are from contractor internet groups.

> >

> > DensArmorPlus by Geogia Pacific is the least toxic drywall I found. Have

samples but haven't used it yet. I hear it's hard to sink a screw it it & it's

best to drill a hole w/ drill in reverse first. I also hear it's hard to avoid

the seams showing because of the texture of DAP.

> > I'll be going with a plaster veneer over the whole wall. Master of Plaster

brand is premixed, non-toxic inmgredients & seems easier to work with than

others. Murco is another non-toxic " mud " .

> > for floors

> > Someone said they reacted to the PureBond plywood.

> > I have samples of Plyboo & they were great - but $250 a sheet !

> > For floor covering my Marmoleum sample was fine until it was exposed to a

damp room & then it sorta smelled like it was so natural it would smell decayed

quickly. Hard to explain but didn't seem good for my damp house. I may go with a

no-formadehyde plywood my local hardware has (not sure if it " no " or " low " ) as

flooring ... & not use the room for awhile. If I do I'll finish it with Bioshield

products.I used 2 coats of the hard oil # 9 on one floor. It's takes a while to

offgas (affected my sinuses) but it's better now after 9 days. I'm not using the

room now. I have low humidity - the odor was much worse at night when the

humidity rises a bit. In a few days I'll use the wax #39 as the final coat.

> >

> >

>