Guest guest Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 , It sounds like you are doing this yourself rather than hiring a professional remediation company. If they do it they will contain the area and use what is called a Negative Air Machine to control the airflow so what's inside the work area won't backflow into the non-work area. If you are doing it yourself then you first need to learn how to set containment and how to control the air flow. Because of your exquisite sensitivity this must be done impeccably to avoid more problems. Carl Grimes Healthy Habitats LLC ----- As soon as I can finish emptying my kitchen completely & have a bit of down time to make sure I covered all my bases I'll have the kitchen sink & cabinets taken out again because of fragrance.This time I'll remove the wood shelves next to it too. The bathroom door is in the kitchen so I'll empty that room too & seal the door with tape. I want to be fully prepared for offgassing & if there is mold behind the cabinets. Shouldn't I tape the electric sockets? I figured I'd seal the whole washing machine & exposed pipe down to the floor with plastic & tape. I'll try to sleep in the living room - no guarantees since I oiled the wood floor on July 30th & waxed on Aug 11th...with Bioshield products. I didn't tolerate the wood & don't know if I tolerate the room either. My vehicle is ready to be slept in. There is a door between the kitchen & living room. What can be done to seal off the kitchen but allow access ? - plastic sheeting ? Almost seems pointless. A few molecules of fragrance escaping when the door opens will go away but I'm thinking this isn't so if there are mold spores. Also I have foil taped onto the fragrant wall behind the washing machine - dryer sheet fumes are not removeable- tried everything? I kinda think the foil is as bad as vinyl wallpaper in relation to mold growth. Any ideas what can seal out the fumes but not grow mold? Something porous under the foil that can release moisture to the outside if it gets damp? ---------- The following section of this message contains a file attachment prepared for transmission using the Internet MIME message format. If you are using Pegasus Mail, or any other MIME-compliant system, you should be able to save it or view it from within your mailer. If you cannot, please ask your system administrator for assistance. ---- File information ----------- File: DEFAULT.BMP Date: 16 Jun 2009, 0:10 Size: 358 bytes. Type: Unknown Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 Carl, I am not doing it myself. What I am doing myself is researching reconstruction practices to make sure it's done right & to locate the least toxic choices- i.e. least toxic drywall, mud, caulk, etc etc. So I do have to know how it's done (even if not to check up on a builder's construction design) but to know in advance every molecule of stuff that will be used so I can find an alternative. Ex: whether or not a tar paper sandwich floor is correct I wouldn't use tar paper. If a sub floor is in fact supposed to be comprised of two layers with something in between then I have to find out what that something in between does (vapor permeable, semi permeable etc) to find the least toxic product of it's kind...or in some cases find out if there is a whole other way to do it that eliminates the need for said product. Do you know what I mean? > > , > > It sounds like you are doing this yourself rather than hiring a > professional remediation company. If they do it they will contain > the area and use what is called a Negative Air Machine to control > the airflow so what's inside the work area won't backflow into the > non-work area. > > If you are doing it yourself then you first need to learn how to set > containment and how to control the air flow. > > Because of your exquisite sensitivity this must be done > impeccably to avoid more problems. > > Carl Grimes > Healthy Habitats LLC > > ----- > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 Not true-dryer sheet fumes offgas-I have the same dryer as I had when I used the sheets and they never made a permanent impact. But that being said it is possible that you have an extreme situation. Can you soak a towel with vinegar and put it in the dryer? That;s what I would try. > > As soon as I can finish emptying my kitchen completely & have a bit of down time to make sure I covered all my bases I'll have the kitchen sink & cabinets taken out again because of fragrance.This time I'll remove the wood shelves next to it too. The bathroom door is in the kitchen so I'll empty that room too & seal the door with tape. I want to be fully prepared for offgassing & if there is mold behind the cabinets. > Shouldn't I tape the electric sockets? > I figured I'd seal the whole washing machine & exposed pipe down to the floor with plastic & tape. I'll try to sleep in the living room - no guarantees since I oiled the wood floor on July 30th & waxed on Aug 11th...with Bioshield products. I didn't tolerate the wood & don't know if I tolerate the room either. My vehicle is ready to be slept in. There is a door between the kitchen & living room. > What can be done to seal off the kitchen but allow access ? - plastic sheeting ? > Almost seems pointless. A few molecules of fragrance escaping when the door opens will go away but I'm thinking this isn't so if there are mold spores. > Also I have foil taped onto the fragrant wall behind the washing machine - dryer sheet fumes are not removeable- tried everything? I kinda think the foil is as bad as vinyl wallpaper in relation to mold growth. Any ideas what can seal out the fumes but not grow mold? Something porous under the foil that can release moisture to the outside if it gets damp? > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 It could be the type,  I had same dryer but my use of that kind of stuff was never much. I did not have residues in washer or dyer. I heard it also depends on material of the tub, stainless stell, versus ceramic, versus plastic.  God Bless !! dragonflymcs Mayleen ________________________________ From: surellabaer <surellabaer@...> Sent: Mon, August 16, 2010 9:17:37 PM Subject: [] Re: Input needed.  Not true-dryer sheet fumes offgas-I have the same dryer as I had when I used the sheets and they never made a permanent impact. But that being said it is possible that you have an extreme situation. Can you soak a towel with vinegar and put it in the dryer? That;s what I would try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 The dryer was the first thing to go ! Still mad at myself for trying to keep the washer - windows opened until the end of Dec! Cleaned with everything over & over. The worst thing on the face of the earth for me is dryer sheets & second is laundry detergent. The fumes I refer to are on the wall, socket & dryer duct. > > Not true-dryer sheet fumes offgas-I have the same dryer as I had when I used the sheets and they never made a permanent impact. But that being said it is possible that you have an extreme situation. Can you soak a towel with vinegar and put it in the dryer? That;s what I would try. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 , Yes, I know what you mean. Super diligence is a must! The best way to start is with the construction techniques and materials suggested by a couple of contractors. Review their suggestions and modify as necessary. Check all labels and the MSDS. I'm currently working with a local client on building the entire interior of a condo. Everything - and I do mean everything - that goes in is being checked and double checked. Be sure the MSDS is recent because we found several that " changed " during our review. So the questions became " were they corrected? " or " was the product changed? " My original comments addressed the tear- out, not the rebuild. Carl Grimes Healthy Habitats LLC ----- Carl, I am not doing it myself. What I am doing myself is researching reconstruction practices to make sure it's done right & to locate the least toxic choices- i.e. least toxic drywall, mud, caulk, etc etc. So I do have to know how it's done (even if not to check up on a builder's construction design) but to know in advance every molecule of stuff that will be used so I can find an alternative. Ex: whether or not a tar paper sandwich floor is correct I wouldn't use tar paper. If a sub floor is in fact supposed to be comprised of two layers with something in between then I have to find out what that something in between does (vapor permeable, semi permeable etc) to find the least toxic product of it's kind...or in some cases find out if there is a whole other way to do it that eliminates the need for said product. Do you know what I mean? > > , > > It sounds like you are doing this yourself rather than hiring a > professional remediation company. If they do it they will contain > the area and use what is called a Negative Air Machine to control > the airflow so what's inside the work area won't backflow into the > non-work area. > > If you are doing it yourself then you first need to learn how to set > containment and how to control the air flow. > > Because of your exquisite sensitivity this must be done > impeccably to avoid more problems. > > Carl Grimes > Healthy Habitats LLC > > ----- > ---------- The following section of this message contains a file attachment prepared for transmission using the Internet MIME message format. If you are using Pegasus Mail, or any other MIME-compliant system, you should be able to save it or view it from within your mailer. If you cannot, please ask your system administrator for assistance. ---- File information ----------- File: DEFAULT.BMP Date: 16 Jun 2009, 0:10 Size: 358 bytes. Type: Unknown Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 , nothing is needed between those sheets of plywood. I have torn up and laid down a subfloor and underlayment (two layers of subfloor is really a subfloor and an underlayment) and have seen other such construction, and tar paper is not at all common or usual. After 30 years the plywood wouldn't outgas--is it the tar paper that you are smelling? If you do want to lay down a new subfloor, marine grade plywood is a good but expensive choice. It has little to no formaldehyde. I used it and didn't react at all, but everyone is different. Sent from my iPhone On Aug 16, 2010, at 6:22 PM, " safersmilesdentallab " <safersmilesdentallab@...> wrote: Carl, I am not doing it myself. What I am doing myself is researching reconstruction practices to make sure it's done right & to locate the least toxic choices- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 She was asking what could get rid of dryer sheet smell lingering on the wall without encouraging mold growth. , I'd try to wipe it down with vinegar. Antimicrobial and good at eliminating fumes. Painters put a bowl of vinegar in a room to clear our VOCs. Sent from my iPhone On Aug 16, 2010, at 8:17 PM, " surellabaer " <surellabaer@...> wrote: Not true-dryer sheet fumes offgas-I have the same dryer as I had when I used the sheets and they never made a permanent impact. But that being said it is possible that you have an extreme situation. Can you soak a towel with vinegar and put it in the dryer? That;s what I would try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 Oops, sorry, , I reread your message and didn't quite answer what you were asking. You would lay down paper over the underlayment and underneath the new hardwood floor. Just not between the subfloor and underlayment. Begin forwarded message: From: Advocate_Now <advocate_now@...> Date: August 17, 2010 12:05:08 AM CDT " " < > Subject: Re: [] Re: Input needed. , nothing is needed between those sheets of plywood. I have torn up and laid down a subfloor and underlayment (two layers of subfloor is really a subfloor and an underlayment) and have seen other such construction, and tar paper is not at all common or usual. After 30 years the plywood wouldn't outgas--is it the tar paper that you are smelling? If you do want to lay down a new subfloor, marine grade plywood is a good but expensive choice. It has little to no formaldehyde. I used it and didn't react at all, but everyone is different. Sent from my iPhone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 Thanks. I'll look for marine grade. I'm not smelling the pywood - the whole room smells of mold. So eveything is getting replaced. Last night I thougt I could take it down to studs & make a parking spot for a bus out of the area. That's how bad it is with no mold visible except on the outside of the house. > > , nothing is needed between those sheets of plywood. I have torn up and laid down a subfloor and underlayment (two layers of subfloor is really a subfloor and an underlayment) and have seen other such construction, and tar paper is not at all common or usual. > > After 30 years the plywood wouldn't outgas--is it the tar paper that you are smelling? If you do want to lay down a new subfloor, marine grade plywood is a good but expensive choice. It has little to no formaldehyde. I used it and didn't react at all, but everyone is different. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Aug 16, 2010, at 6:22 PM, " safersmilesdentallab " <safersmilesdentallab@...> wrote: > > Carl, > I am not doing it myself. What I am doing myself is researching reconstruction practices to make sure it's done right & to locate the least toxic choices- > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 Used vinegar, baking soda, vodka, over & over leaving the empty bottles of vinegar out (with alittle in the bottom)helped the most. Funny, it didn't help much left in a bowl or wide mouth jar. Used liken too. Boy does it absorb. This went on for 2 months.I figure it will dissipate through the other side of the wall eventually - esp since the dryer opening is behind the foil. > > Not true-dryer sheet fumes offgas-I have the same dryer as I had when I used the sheets and they never made a permanent impact. But that being said it is possible that you have an extreme situation. Can you soak a towel with vinegar and put it in the dryer? That;s what I would try. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 To be cheap I wasn't going to put down a real floor covering - just more plywood :-). Is 3 layers of plywood utterly ridiculous ? > > Oops, sorry, , I reread your message and didn't quite answer what you were asking. You would lay down paper over the underlayment and underneath the new hardwood floor. Just not between the subfloor and underlayment. > > > Begin forwarded message: > > From: Advocate_Now <advocate_now@...> > Date: August 17, 2010 12:05:08 AM CDT > " " < > > Subject: Re: [] Re: Input needed. > > > , nothing is needed between those sheets of plywood. I have torn up and laid down a subfloor and underlayment (two layers of subfloor is really a subfloor and an underlayment) and have seen other such construction, and tar paper is not at all common or usual. > > After 30 years the plywood wouldn't outgas--is it the tar paper that you are smelling? If you do want to lay down a new subfloor, marine grade plywood is a good but expensive choice. It has little to no formaldehyde. I used it and didn't react at all, but everyone is different. > > Sent from my iPhone > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 watch out for vodka, I cant take the smell of any acolhols. > > Used vinegar, baking soda, vodka, over & over leaving the empty bottles of vinegar out (with alittle in the bottom)helped the most. Funny, it didn't help much left in a bowl or wide mouth jar. Used liken too. Boy does it absorb. This went on for 2 months.I figure it will dissipate through the other side of the wall eventually - esp since the dryer opening is behind the foil. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 Vinegar makes me high. I'm Ok with vodka. It helps get plastic fumes off & other petroleum based stuff like gasoline on your hands. Sometimes I would spray myself down with it to get fragrance off of me & my groceries before. Not always just some places were REAL bad. > > > > Used vinegar, baking soda, vodka, over & over leaving the empty bottles of vinegar out (with alittle in the bottom)helped the most. Funny, it didn't help much left in a bowl or wide mouth jar. Used liken too. Boy does it absorb. This went on for 2 months.I figure it will dissipate through the other side of the wall eventually - esp since the dryer opening is behind the foil. > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 It's more likely the crawlspace you are smelling. Carl Grimes Healthy Habitats LLC ----- Thanks. I'll look for marine grade. I'm not smelling the pywood - the whole room smells of mold. So eveything is getting replaced. Last night I thougt I could take it down to studs & make a parking spot for a bus out of the area. That's how bad it is with no mold visible except on the outside of the house. > > , nothing is needed between those sheets of plywood. I have torn up and laid down a subfloor and underlayment (two layers of subfloor is really a subfloor and an underlayment) and have seen other such construction, and tar paper is not at all common or usual. > > After 30 years the plywood wouldn't outgas--is it the tar paper that you are smelling? If you do want to lay down a new subfloor, marine grade plywood is a good but expensive choice. It has little to no formaldehyde. I used it and didn't react at all, but everyone is different. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Aug 16, 2010, at 6:22 PM, " safersmilesdentallab " <safersmilesdentallab@...> wrote: > > Carl, > I am not doing it myself. What I am doing myself is researching reconstruction practices to make sure it's done right & to locate the least toxic choices- > ---------- The following section of this message contains a file attachment prepared for transmission using the Internet MIME message format. If you are using Pegasus Mail, or any other MIME-compliant system, you should be able to save it or view it from within your mailer. If you cannot, please ask your system administrator for assistance. ---- File information ----------- File: DEFAULT.BMP Date: 16 Jun 2009, 0:10 Size: 358 bytes. Type: Unknown Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 You know I heard that vodka would work! Thanks for the confirmation! > > > > Not true-dryer sheet fumes offgas-I have the same dryer as I had when I used the sheets and they never made a permanent impact. But that being said it is possible that you have an extreme situation. Can you soak a towel with vinegar and put it in the dryer? That;s what I would try. > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 Carl, Definitely not. The crawl smells the same as the soil outside. It's surprisingly smell-less. It's the room that's AWFUL! It's not from the attic either. It may be from the mold on the outside which is really strong - hard for me to believe but it IS very strong outside. It may be in the walls. I don't know yet. There was a really stupid gutter installation. Not much time to find out before the rains start. The dilemma - If I remove the outside moldy wood & insulation & it's not better than whatever is in the walls (the only thing left) will contaminate the new outside stuff so it would be a mad dash to rip out those walls as soon as I draw that conclusion. > > It's more likely the crawlspace you are smelling. > > Carl Grimes > Healthy Habitats LLC > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 I understand about baking soda and vinegar, but what is in the vodka that helps and why just vodka and not all liguors? Thanks D > > > > Used vinegar, baking soda, vodka, over & over leaving the empty bottles of vinegar out (with alittle in the bottom)helped the most. Funny, it didn't help much left in a bowl or wide mouth jar. Used liken too. Boy does it absorb. This went on for 2 months.I figure it will dissipate through the other side of the wall eventually - esp since the dryer opening is behind the foil. > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 I also have a problem with vinigar, so yes, everyone just has to find what they can tolerate. > > > > Used vinegar, baking soda, vodka, over & over leaving the empty bottles of vinegar out (with alittle in the bottom)helped the most. Funny, it didn't help much left in a bowl or wide mouth jar. Used liken too. Boy does it absorb. This went on for 2 months.I figure it will dissipate through the other side of the wall eventually - esp since the dryer opening is behind the foil. > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 does air leak in around your window? > > > > It's more likely the crawlspace you are smelling. > > > > Carl Grimes > > Healthy Habitats LLC > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 20, 2010 Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 How I got the idea was that I bought a plastic item once that you are suppposed to put these self-stick velcro tabs on. They recommended cleaning it with alcohol first. Isopropyl is toxic so I use vodka. I had it with me on the road for deodorant (as per Dr Hulda ). I spilled gas all over my feet & decided to try vodka & it worked. When my hair got sprayed by one of those timed frgrance dispensers in a public bathroom I tried peroxide, vinegar & vodka. Vodka worked best but I still had to put my hair in a towel. The 50 min ride to the healthy food store took 3 hours of getting lost on the way back because of the fragrance assault. :-/ After that it became what I sprayed on really stinky groceries or myself after being in a really stinky place. Don't know the science but I guess it breaks down oils enough to release them ??? The fragrance doesn't completely go away but the reactive element does. > > > > > > Used vinegar, baking soda, vodka, over & over leaving the empty bottles of vinegar out (with alittle in the bottom)helped the most. Funny, it didn't help much left in a bowl or wide mouth jar. Used liken too. Boy does it absorb. This went on for 2 months.I figure it will dissipate through the other side of the wall eventually - esp since the dryer opening is behind the foil. > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 20, 2010 Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 Oh & vodka is the most pure alcohol especially Everclear - no coloring or stickyness. > > > > > > Used vinegar, baking soda, vodka, over & over leaving the empty bottles of vinegar out (with alittle in the bottom)helped the most. Funny, it didn't help much left in a bowl or wide mouth jar. Used liken too. Boy does it absorb. This went on for 2 months.I figure it will dissipate through the other side of the wall eventually - esp since the dryer opening is behind the foil. > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 20, 2010 Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 Um, well, duh?, the windows are opened - figured it would really fester in there if it was closed up. Yesterday the contractor pulled off a piece of outside board AGAIN but this time pulled out a piece of batt. The inside side of the batt was moldy (but not the outside...weird) & the back of the drywall. Found the source finally. He'll start ripping into it on Tues.- inside & out. > > does air leak in around your window? > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You are posting as a guest. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.