Window Air Conditioners [Was: Re: No one to sue, no one to blame]

[Guest guest]

Diane,

Usually not, in my experience. But there's always an exception.

Often more of a plastic odor or something from the motor. I

suggest you turn them on and see what happens. If there is an

oil-type odor you'll know immediately. If run only a few minutes it

won't contaminate the house. Hopefully they can be returned if

they don't work.

Carl Grimes

Healthy Habitats LLC

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Carl: Do the portable air conditioners that you install in a window have the

machine oil on the coils also? My son just purchased two of them. Thanks~ Diane

>

> Gil,

>

> Excellent post as always. I'd add only one more item.

>

> The heat exchanger and A/C coils usually have a coating of machine oil which

will out gas. Because they are semi volatile rather than volatile it takes weeks

to months depending on use and your sensitivity.

>

> Have the installers remove this coating before they bring it to your house.

Usually a two step process. Solvent to remove the oil then hot water with a safe

detergent to remove the solvent.

>

> Do not listen to the salesman or installer when they tell you " oh, don't worry

because it will burn off.

>

> Ask them " where does it go? " It goes into the air and is now distributed

throughout the house. Good luck removing that from everything!

>

> Then ask them what burns the oil off the A/C coils? They don't get hot.

>

> This procedure is usually sufficient but occasionally it isn't. If you are

extremely sensitive to this type of substance I suggest you personally test the

equipment before they install it.

>

>

> Carl Grimes

> Healthy Habitats LLC

> (fm my Blackberry)

>

> [] Re: No one to sue, no one to blame

>

>

> Air conditioning has been discussed several times before. It is my favorite

topic, since a very moldy HVAC in my workplace of 32 years was the source of my

health problem. I suspect your central AC is old, and you will probably want to

replace it. If so, there are a few things you can request that most companies do

not provide standard. You can also use these suggestions for remediating an

older functionable system.

>

>

>

> 1. Demand that your new unit include an access door so you will be able to

have the coils and drain pan periodically cleaned. This can also be installed on

an old unit if you are not getting new. This panel also allows you to put a

small amount of dilute chlorine bleach into the pan monthly to prevent the drain

line from getting plugged. Or better yet, you can use this access door to place

AC disinfectant tablets in the drain pan. These are available at Lowes and Home

Depot. This will eliminate the need for bleach.

>

> 2. As the new unit is being installed, before the coils are covered, pour 2

cups water into the drain pan. If it does not drain completely, have the

installer correct the drain pan level so it does drain completely.

>

> 3. Make sure the plenum (air distribution box) is sheet metal, not fiberglass

ductboard, and there is no interior fibrous insulation. These have been shown to

trap dust and moisture, providing mold growth habitat. Air distribution lines

ideally should be sheet metal, but many contractors insist on flexduct. It's not

as mold resistant as sheet metal, but better than ductboard. For an even

healthier system, some sheet metal retards biofilm growth, such as Agion

Technology from AK Steel.

>

> 4. Make sure the filter housing to furnace junction is properly sealed. A poor

job will allow unfiltered air to flow around filters allowing dust (mold

nutrient) to contaminate the new coils.

>

> 5. Beware of furnace humidifiers. These can contribute to the same type

problems you now have. With just a little dust, they can be bioaerosol

reservoirs. Do not believe the hype that humidifiers will improve your health.

Most homes generate enough humidity from cooking, laundry, and bathing.

>

> 6. Make sure good filters are used from day 1. Don't waste your money on cheap

fiberglass filters. 3M Filtretes are pretty good, as are some by Purolator and

other companies. Better still are the 5 inch thick filters sold by your

contractor, though very expensive. (Electronic air filters do not remove what

bothers me, and also produce trace ozone, a respiratory irritant.) But remember,

the best filters are useless if the installation isn't done properly.

>

> 7. After it's running, make sure you change filters at the proper intervals.

>

> 8. As discussed recently, consider running the fan continuously, and letting

the fan run 2-3 hours after turning off the AC. This will evaporate any

remaining water on the coils or in the drain pan, preventing the air handler

relative humidity from getting any higher than that in the house. If doing so

raises relative humidity in your house, that means the drain pan is holding

water and was not leveled correctly when installed. Some furnaces have variable

speed fans, meant to run continuously. They slow considerably when there is no

heating or cooling occuring, but still move the air sufficiently through the

plenum.

>

> I hope this helps.

> >

> Gil

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