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Re: Semi-Natural Fabrics?

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More? What a joke! Care to do a brain dump on fabrics for the rest of us? I'd

love to know what you know! That is one of the areas that I have not even

thought about trying to change.

Thanks for the education so far Lana,

Kathy

---- Lana Gibbons <lana.m.gibbons@...> wrote:

> I've been going through my wardrobe since a lot of stuff doesn't fit. I

> figured it was time to send the clothes I don't like off to be hand-me-downs

> and pack away the rest in hopes that they'll still fit after baby comes.

> I've been trying to get down to a more natural fabric collection so that all

> my clothing is breatheable which means the synthetics are some of the first

> to go.

>

> I was always under the impression that Rayon and Modal were synthetic

> fabrics... It turns out they are both made from cellulose! Modal is made

> from Beech and Rayon is made from a variety of things including Bamboo.

> These fabrics have always confused me as they're the only ones I can't pick

> out by touch (I've been sewing for 15+ years) - I often confuse rayon or

> modal for cotton.

>

> I was wondering if anyone out there knew any more about these fabrics?

>

> -Lana

>

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Yes they are made from natural materials, and the process for making

rayon goes back surprisingly far - it was thought that it could

replace silk. But the process uses chemicals that are really

polluting and so it is not sustainable in the respect that it causes

terrible harm to the environment. Rayon is also the reason the laws

were passed about using flame retardents on bedding because it really

burns very well. Similar processes are now being used to make fiber

(material) from soy, wood, and other things.

Cotton tho is often genetically modified these days, so that's not a

good option either unless you can find it organic, which you see more

of these days.

Wool in the higher qualities is a result of either oppression of the

poor (cashmere where the farmers get much less than 1% of the money

tho they do the majority of the work) or the animals - good quality

merino sheep are kept confined to keep their wool clean! The old-

fashioned scratchy wool is pretty sustainable, tho, and durable and

worthwhile (I think!). It is flame-resistant, warm in cooler

climates but less likely to overheat you when it warms up (like you

go from the car to outside to the store). It stays warm when it gets

wet (but is slightly waterproof), resists dirt and odors, and lasts a

long time (unlike the sofer wools that pill and mat). Just wear a

softer shirt under the wool so it's not against your skin!

Alpaca is a very good option and if you can find it color-grown even

better since many of the colors of alpaca are being neglected as the

white dyes to cleaner, brighter colors that are more in demand. Also

it's flame resistant (as is wool). It's one of the softest and

warmest fibers available, and has almost all of the benefits of wool.

Bamboo is pretty sustainable but in my experience it tends to pick up

colors and get greyish over time.

Hemp and linen are both very good quality fibers for clothing,

especially summer-wear. They are durable, strong, cool, and

sustainable. Hemp can be hard to find but it is worth it to support

the people growing it when we can. It is not very closely related to

the marijuana that pot-heads smoke - it has very little of the THC

that will get you high. Hemp can grow like crazy with no fertilizer

or insecticide. It can make durable fibers for clothing and the

stuff that's left makes a particle board that's stronger than steel.

I read where there was a thriving hemp industry in the early US but a

certain wealthy powerful figure owned a lot of timber land and pushed

through legislation outlawing hemp to insure a profit for his wood

(both can be used for paper). I used to think the hemp thing was

mostly pushed by pot-heads, but really it is one of the most

sustainable fibers out there and very useful and it's a shame people

are so uneducated about it. Linen is made from the flax plant and is

also pretty easy to grow.

> > I've been going through my wardrobe since a lot of stuff doesn't

fit. I

> > figured it was time to send the clothes I don't like off to be

hand-me-downs

> > and pack away the rest in hopes that they'll still fit after baby

comes.

> > I've been trying to get down to a more natural fabric collection

so that all

> > my clothing is breatheable which means the synthetics are some of

the first

> > to go.

> >

> > I was always under the impression that Rayon and Modal were

synthetic

> > fabrics... It turns out they are both made from cellulose!

Modal is made

> > from Beech and Rayon is made from a variety of things including

Bamboo.

> > These fabrics have always confused me as they're the only ones I

can't pick

> > out by touch (I've been sewing for 15+ years) - I often confuse

rayon or

> > modal for cotton.

> >

> > I was wondering if anyone out there knew any more about these

fabrics?

> >

> > -Lana

> >

>

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" I was wondering if anyone out there knew any more about these fabrics? " -Lana

Hi Lana,

I'm new to the group and don't have time to write my intro right now but want to

respond to your post. Body Ecology recently had an article on fabrics. Here is

a clip from that article:

Top 6 Toxic Fabrics

1. Polyester is the worst fabric you can buy. It is made from synthetic polymers

that are made from esters of dihydric alcohol and terpthalic acid.

2. Acrylic fabrics are polycrylonitriles and may cause cancer, according to the

EPA.

3. Rayon is recycled wood pulp that must be treated with chemicals like caustic

soda, ammonia, acetone and sulphuric acid to survive regular washing and

wearing.

4. Acetate and Triacetate are made from wood fibers called cellulose and undergo

extensive chemical processing to produce the finished product.

5. Nylon is made from petroleum and is often given a permanent chemical finish

that can be harmful.

6. Anything static resistant, stain resistant, permanent press, wrinkle-free,

stain proof or moth repellant. Many of the stain resistant and wrinkle-free

fabrics are treated with perfluorinated chemicals (PFCs), like Teflon.

Modern Materials

Keep in mind that many fabrics (including natural fibers) undergo significant

processing that often involves:

Detergents

Petrochemical dyes

Formaldehyde to prevent shrinkage

Volatile organic compounds (VOCs)

Dioxin-producing bleach

Chemical fabric softeners

Laree

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Somehow my first post of this didn't go straight to the group, so I'm

resending it.

Haecklers did a great write up on the natural fabrics, the only thing I have

to add about the natural fabrics is that both Wool and Bamboo are said to be

naturally antibacterial. I have heard say that Silk is also, but I'm not

too sure about that. I don't quite know the implications of this outside of

it being desirable in the cloth diapering circuit. :)

My favorite fabric right now is silk and my second favorite is wool. Cotton

is nice because it is so mainstream, but as haecklers pointed out a lot of

it is GM - another negative to cotton is that it requires a lot of

pesticides to grow. I'd love to try out hemp, but it is still fairly

expensive (cotton/hemp blends seem to start around $15/yd whereas cotton can

be gotten as cheap as $3/yd). Both silk and wool can be ridiculously

expensive new but since it takes a bit of effort to care for them, you can

often find them second hand as cheap as (or cheaper than) cotton.

Here's some info on synthetics:

Polyester is basically a plastic. The term polyester encompasses the family

that includes pthalate containing PET and Bisphenol-A containing

polycarbonate. I'm not too sure specifically what variant is used in

clothing fiber or if a variety of these are used in clothing. Both pthalate

and bisphenol-A are suspected carcinogens.

Nylon is a thermoplastic material - that means it is a plastic that melts to

a liquid when heated and it freezes to be brittle. One of the " fun " facts

they taught us in EMT class was that a woman who happens to be unlucky

enough to be in a fire when wearing nylon stockings will end up with the

plastic literally fused to her skin. (We had to be specifically taught not

to try to remove it, as would be done with many other materials, since

apparently when you peel it off the skin comes too...)

Acrylic in the US is a fabric that contains at least 85% acrylonitrile -

this is a combination of vinyl and nitrile, so I think it also classifies as

a plastic. Acrylonitrile is also a known carcinogen.

I see Acetate used in a lot of older clothing but I don't really know much

about it. It is similar to Polyester in texture.

-Lana

On Wed, Mar 19, 2008 at 4:19 PM, <kathy.dickson@...> wrote:

> More? What a joke! Care to do a brain dump on fabrics for the rest of us?

> I'd love to know what you know! That is one of the areas that I have not

> even thought about trying to change.

>

> Thanks for the education so far Lana,

> Kathy

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Okay, so here's another question about the semi-natural fabrics... I've been

seeing a lot of bamboo blend yarn that is actually bamboo rayon. Is all

bamboo rayon or is only some of it? How would one tell the difference?

-Lana

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Thanks for that info. Do you know about chemical treatments of wool?

I've always read that wool is almost always treated with moth-proofing

chemicals (but that doesn't seem to stop the moths from eating it...).

I found a really cool retro sweater ('70's) at the thrift shop. It

felt strange, and when I washed it, it had a really nasty petroleum

smell. Newer wool, I've never smelled that.

Joy

--- In , " haecklers " <haecklers@...>

wrote:

>

> Yes they are made from natural materials, and the process for making

> rayon goes back surprisingly far - it was thought that it could

> replace silk. But the process uses chemicals that are really

> polluting and so it is not sustainable in the respect that it causes

> terrible harm to the environment. Rayon is also the reason the laws

> were passed about using flame retardents on bedding because it really

> burns very well. Similar processes are now being used to make fiber

> (material) from soy, wood, and other things.

>

> Cotton tho is often genetically modified these days, so that's not a

> good option ei

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I haven't heard much about chemical treatments for wool like that.

They do use some chemicals to dissolve straw, etc. from the wool to

salvage what is kind of dirty. Maybe your sweater got something

spilled on it. I'd soak it in a bucket with some wool type detergent

for several hours and see if that helps get it out.

> >

> > Yes they are made from natural materials, and the process for

making

> > rayon goes back surprisingly far - it was thought that it could

> > replace silk. But the process uses chemicals that are really

> > polluting and so it is not sustainable in the respect that it

causes

> > terrible harm to the environment. Rayon is also the reason the

laws

> > were passed about using flame retardents on bedding because it

really

> > burns very well. Similar processes are now being used to make

fiber

> > (material) from soy, wood, and other things.

> >

> > Cotton tho is often genetically modified these days, so that's

not a

> > good option ei

>

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Joy,

I have heard about moth-proofing wool - also from the diaper circuit. I

know as a fact organic wool isn't moth-proofed, but there are also

conventional wools which are not moth-proofed. Apparently when you buy wool

fabrics or yarns, the manufacturer should be able to tell you if it is

treated.

I wish I knew more about removing the moth-proofing, but unfortunately I

don't. I did a search on the diaper community I'm a part of and I could

only find info as to how to remove the moth ball scent from wool -

apparently woollite does a good job of that.

What did you wash it in? Some detergents contain enzymes designed for

whitening that can cause issues with wool.

-Lana

On Thu, Mar 20, 2008 at 9:13 AM, jmr1290 <jomarex@...> wrote:

> Thanks for that info. Do you know about chemical treatments of wool?

> I've always read that wool is almost always treated with moth-proofing

> chemicals (but that doesn't seem to stop the moths from eating it...).

>

> I found a really cool retro sweater ('70's) at the thrift shop. It

> felt strange, and when I washed it, it had a really nasty petroleum

> smell. Newer wool, I've never smelled that.

>

> Joy

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