Re: checkin' in

[Guest guest]

Hi , Glad to send some encouragement. Mind you it took me 12

weeks of rehab post op to even try to longboard. In physical

therapy we drew an outline of a board and I trained to pop up. My

first go missed the outline w/ both feet! On top of that I was

swimming as soon as possible. Our community pool upcountry in

Pukalani has a handicap loader. Got in no prob, then I was kicking

w/ all I had in me and a slight breath of a breeze had me moving

backward. Nonetheless, I kept at it and the improvements were

swift. At 5 months post op my wife and I took a big leap and left

on a global surf quest, an over year trip we had been planning

before my hip crashed. I didn't short board any serius surf until

Peru, maybe 7 mons post op and quite honestly until this past season

I was still a bit apprehensive in anything with real consequences.

Seems to be doing very well now and at this point I don't know that

I can blame any hesitation on a paddle out on my hip! If you're an

experienced surfer you know what I'm referring to...days where

suddenly a chore like mowing the lawn is more important than

surfing! We had a good many days with a fear level bumped up this

winter, I'm finding that I just don't want to risk it in bigger surf

unless it is really clean. Sort surf for 30 more years rather than

one day of glory!

Best of luck to you. Perhaps post op you'll do a Hawaii

holiday...if so you can luck me up and maybe we could get in a

session! I've had a few hippies express interest in surfing though

have yet to actually hook up w/ any for a surf. If you ever surf

the bay area, I get back to Santa Cruz quite often.

Cheers, Dan

BTW...I know all about not getting your legs under you. It was the

first big winter (fall) day at Hookipa in the Nov. '01 about 4

months into chronic pain when I paddled out to double/triple

overhead surf. Since I've been surfin' Hookipa for some 25+ years

I'm a familiar face in the line up and was in position for set

wave. Ultimately I charged, couldn't get the leg to respond and

free fell into the pit and had a very unpleasant experience. I

repeated this on two more set waves only to go in extremely

depressed. It's so good to know you've got an option to get rid of

the pain and get the bod to work again.

> Dan,

>

> I surfed Cloud Break about 13 years ago. Not long after my hips

got so bad,

> I could not get my legs around the board! Also, the take off got

impossible.

> Can't tell you how encouraging it is to here from you about being

able to

> surf again. I am looking at having a bilateral resurface soon.

>

> Thanks,

>

> at Tahoe

>

>

>