Re: Mineral Makeup Article - Bismuth Oxychloride

[Guest guest]

Thanks for the article Patty! I love the mineral makeups but thought

the mica made my skin itch. Then I found one without mica and it

still itches after 3 days of consecutive usage. Now I think it's the

Bismuth Oxy. Maybe ColorLab makes one without either ingredient.

Worth looking into!

> Here is an unbiased (I think) article on mineral makeups. I found

> it interesting that Bismuth Oxychloride can cause allergic

reactions

> on the skin. This my have been why they made my skin react with

> itching and hives. -Patty

>

> http://colorlabcosmetics.com/article01.htm

>

> Mineral

> Powder

> a trend in makeup

>

> by Mari Roseman

>

> Mineral Powders have taken the cosmetics industry by storm. Mineral

> powders are beneficial for the skin, look natural, and can be used

as

> virtually any cosmeticó translucent powders, powder foundations,

> eyeshadows, blushers, concealers, eyeliners, brow powders, and

> bronzers. Dermatologists and plastic surgeons recommend mineral

> powder cosmetics for their patients for post-procedure and post-

> surgery wear because they are so gentle on the skin. Women love

> mineral powders for their many outstanding qualities and functions,

> most importantly, how beautiful it makes them look!

>

> Mineral Powder is basically foundation without the liquid

> ingredients. At its purest it is simply crushed minerals (rocks)

> without any preservatives. There are many mineral powder lines

> available, which include: Colorescience, Colorlab Cosmetics,

Demaur,

> Jane Iredale, La Bella Donna, Mineral Essentials and Youngblood.

With

> the proliferation of mineral powder lines from which to choose,

when

> purchasing a mineral powder line, it is important to identify its

> distinguishing factors. The differences between mineral powders may

> be few, but depending on the needs of your business and clientele,

> they may be critical.

>

> One factor that has reenergized the mineral powder sector is custom

> blending. No longer do clients need to purchase a variety of

products

> to achieve the perfect shade, now they can have products custom

> blended for shades that perfectly suit their needs. Colorlab

> Cosmetics is the only company that does not sell finished

> productsóthey sell custom blend mineral powder systems which allows

> makeup artists to create shades with or without shimmer and adjust

> the coverage to create anything from a translucent powder to a full

> coverage foundation.

>

> What are they made of?

> Many mineral powder lines have similar ingredients, but the

presence

> or absence of a single ingredient in the mix can make a difference

in

> the quality of the powder and its appearance. Additionally, the

> milling process of the minerals can also make a huge difference in

> the ease of application and final appearance of the minerals on the

> skin. For example, titanium dioxide, a critical ingredient in

mineral

> powders, can be micronized (milled into a fine powder) which makes

> the mineral powder easier to apply and provides a more natural look.

>

>

> Following are mineral powder ingredients and their functions. Most

of

> the ingredients listed are commonly found in loose mineral powders,

> while a few are less common. Pressed mineral powders will contain

> additional ingredients that are used to bind the powder. This list

is

> not all-inclusive.

>

> Titanium Dioxide: Derived from Titanium. It has the most tinting

> power of white pigments. Also recognized as one of the most

effective

> ingredients for sun protection. Contained in all mineral powders in

> either regular or micronized form.

>

> Micronized Titanium Dioxide (finely milled Titanium Dioxide):

> Provides the same benefits of Titanium Dioxide but makes mineral

> powder finer and easier to apply. Contained in all mineral powders

in

> either regular or micronized form.

>

> Zinc Oxide: Provides opacity. It is also believed to aid in healing

> skin disorders. Zinc oxide also provides sun protection Contained

in

> most mineral powders.

>

> Mica: Provides texture and light diffusion (luminescence) and slip.

> Many mineral powders contain Mica or Bismuth Oxychloride for

> luminescence.

>

> Bismuth Oxychloride: Provides luminescence and is sometimes

referred

> to as " synthetic pearl " . May cause allergic reactions to skin. Many

> mineral powders contain Mica or Bismuth Oxychloride for

luminescence.

>

> Sericite: A derivative of silica that provides silky texture and

> light diffusing qualities. The addition of sericite changes the

> molecular weight of the powder, allowing it to lay lightly on the

> skin. Contained in few mineral powders.

>

> Kaolin:French Clay helps absorb oil. Contained in few mineral

powders.

>

>

>

> To shimmer or not

> Another aspect to consider when purchasing a mineral powder line is

> shimmer. Do your clients want shimmer? Many salons and women enjoy

> Jane Iredale for its complete mineral powder line of finished loose

> and pressed shimmery powders. Still other salons and clients enjoy

> Colorlab Cosmeticsí line of loose custom blend mineral powders

which

> allows makeup artists to create and sell their own shades with or

> without shimmer.

>

> What is the texture and consistency of the mineral powder? Some

feel

> thick and grab the skin and drag when applied; others feel like

silk,

> almost creamy. It is important to find the right texture and

> consistency. In order to ensure that your clients are successful

with

> mineral powders, make sure that they are easy to applyóthat they

> glide easily on the skin.

>

> If you are new to mineral powders and are choosing between a few

> lines, be sure to ask for samples so that you can touch and feel

the

> product and compare. With a little background information and the

> product in hand you should be able to make an informed decision.

>

> A protective sun shade

> Sun protection is a natural gift of mineral powders. Most companies

> claim SPF factors of around 20. Micronized titanium dioxide

reflects

> ultraviolet rays from the skin while micronized zinc oxide absorbs

> light, shielding the skin from the suns harmful rays. Iron oxide in

> combination with zinc oxide enhances the effectiveness of zinc

> oxideís sun protection abilities, boosting the SPF factor even

> higher. Plastic surgeons and dermatologists prefer mineral powder

sun

> protection because there are no chemicals that irritate the skin.

> Mineral powders give essential protection without the risk of an

> adverse reaction. Additionally, mineral powders are extremely water

> resistant making them an ideal product for humid climates and

active

> lifestyles.

>

> Mineral powder users

> Bohms, esthetician at Visage Spa in Troy, Michigan, custom

> blends mineral powder for her clients. " We get a lot of business

> referrals from a number of plastic surgeons and dermatologists so I

> knew I would need a talc-free, non-irritating mineral powder for

> these clients. In order to match skin tones and cover up

> discoloration, I chose a custom blend mineral powder that allows me

> to create just the right shade. " According to Bohms, mineral powder

> is a great product for post plastic surgery patients beyond the

> initial recovery. " Plastic surgeons recommend that for best

results,

> face lift patients should stay out of the sun for one year after

> surgery. Mineral powder is a great product for these patients. Not

> only does it provide extra sun protection, it is a great light-

weight

> product for the summer. It adheres nicely to the skin while

allowing

> your skin to breathe. I can even create bronzers for my clients so

> they can have a beautiful, safe, sun-touched look "

>

> As far as cosmetics are concerned, mineral powders are the most

> versatile product on the market these days. They can be worn as a

> translucent powder or even as a foundation powder. Manna,

> makeup artist and owner of Belleci Cosmetics & Skin Care in

Danville,

> California says a lot of her clients are looking for a very natural

> look. " Here in Danville my clients are very minimalistóthey want

> their makeup to look very natural. Many will not wear liquid

> foundation, but love mineral powders. They can wear them as

> foundation or sheerer as a translucent powder. It evens out their

> skin tone and gives them a ëno makeup lookí. My clients love it. "

It

> is so easy to touch up with mineral powder. Most women donít carry

a

> bottle of foundation with them for touch ups, but mineral powder is

> light and great for quick touch-ups. Mineral powders are most often

> applied dry, but can also be applied wet, which sets the powder and

> provides greater coverage.

>

> A versatile product

> As eye makeup, mineral powders can be used as eyeshadows as well as

> eyeliners. Because mineral powders adhere so well to the skin, once

> they are on the lid, they stay on and are virtually crease free. It

> is best to use an angled brush to apply dry eyeshadow to prevent it

> from flaking off and then blend it with a larger fluff brush.

Applied

> wet, mineral powders can create a dramatic, well defined eyeshadow.

> With water or an eyeliner sealer they can be applied as eyeliners,

> which can create a dramatic or subtle look depending on the mineral

> powder shade and thickness of the line. Manna has clients who had

> been unable to wear colored eyeshadows, due to the irritants, until

> mineral powders, " I have clients who can now wear purple mineral

> powder eyeshadows. They are ecstatic! "

>

> Earth toned mineral powders can be used in place of an eyebrow

> pencil. Mineral powder can fill in eyebrows nicely giving eyebrows

a

> filled in look without making them look severe. An angle brow brush

> works nicely. The same mineral powder could also serve as an

eyeliner

> or shadow.

>

> Minerals look great as blushers and bronzers. Dye-free minerals

wonít

> cause breakouts caused by red dyes commonly found in blushers.

> Depending on the shade, blushers and bronzers can double as

> eyeshadows. Those who wish to travel light can carry one mineral

> powder to use as blush, eyeshadow and lip color, and another as a

> foundation or translucent powder. A dip in your mineral powder

blush

> with a clear lip balm makes a great lipstick on the goójust be sure

> not to contaminate your mineral powder with the lip balm oils.

>

> Dispel the myths

> For those who retail mineral powders, old notions of what powder is

> (or can be), must be dispelled. Most women are used to talc based

> pressed powders which can cause irritation and can also turn gray

on

> the skin when the powder mixes with the skinís sebum. Many older

> women have shied away from powder since it can accentuate wrinkles.

> Mineral powders can be very forgiving. " I have a lot of clients in

> the 40-50 age range, " comments Manna, " and they love my mineral

> powder. I use a light diffusing mineral powder that stays on the

> surface of the skin and makes them look younger. It gives my

clients

> a luminous look without the shimmer which can accentuate wrinkles. "

>

> A mineral powder that contains mica or bismuth oxychloride is an

> option for those who are looking for a dewy look. However, donít

> confuse shimmer or luminescence with light diffusion. Mica and

> bismuth oxychloride reflects light in an obvious way--it adds a

> glimmering sheen. Light diffusing products create a matte finish,

> gloss reduction and the appearance of smoother skin. Light

diffusing

> products increase the amount of light that is reflected from inside

> the wrinkle making the skin appear smoother.

>

> Presenting it to clients

> Doni Rayford, Makeup Artist for Bella Via in Toledo, Ohio finds

that

> many of his clients have little or no previous knowledge of mineral

> powders. " I get a lot of post medical procedure patients who

require

> non-irritating makeup in addition to a lot of non-medical clients

who

> are just looking for quality cosmetics and service. My clients are

> shocked when they find out about mineral powders and compare them

to

> brands they know and have used. I have my clients bring their

> products in so I can show them and discuss the differences between

> their products and mineral powders. They are quite taken with

mineral

> powders once we make this comparison. "

>

> For Manna, education is key to selling mineral powders. " The first

> thing I do is have my clients rub the mineral powder between their

> fingers. When they feel how creamy and silky it is and how it

glides

> on to the back of their hand, they are amazed. And then I tell them

> about the sun protection and the flawless finish. At that point,

they

> try it and then they buy it. Once I educate my clients, the mineral

> powder basically sells itself. "

>

> Smooth it on

> Applying mineral powders is easy with the right powder and tools.

> Most makeup artists prefer to apply mineral powder with brushes

> although sponges work well too; much depends on the type and

coverage

> of the powder, the type of sponge or brush, the look the client is

> trying to achieve and personal preference. To choose the best shade

> of translucent or foundation powder, put a thin stripe of the

powder

> on the jawbone with an eyeshadow brush. It is important to stripe

> rather than blend to get a good sense of how well the shade works

> with the clientís skin. Let it sit on the skin for a few

minutesómost

> minerals powders will darken slightly when they mix with the sebum

of

> the skin. First look at the depth of color and then look at the

> colors. Next, choose or custom blend the mineral powders to match

the

> clientís skin tone.

>

> To ensure that your clients are successful with mineral powders, as

> with any cosmetic product, it is important to make sure they are

> comfortable applying their powder. Rayford applies translucent and

> foundation powders with a brush using downward strokes to create

that

> flawless finish. " I always show my clients what I am doing and have

> them do it themselves in front of me so we can work through any

> difficulties they may have. In addition to making sure their

> technique is good, I make sure their skin care routine is

> appropriate. If their skin is oily, or if there is unabsorbed

> moisturizer on their skin, the mineral powder will not go on

evenly. "

> As with any cosmetics, creating a look may require some practice.

> Mineral powders are easy to work with and can be mastered easily.

>

> A growing trend

> Women are increasingly looking for multifunctional cosmetics.

Mineral

> powders protect the skin from the sunís harmful rays, can be used

on

> the entire face, can be worn any time of the year in any weather

and

> look great! The overwhelming response from makeup artists and

makeup

> wearers indicates that mineral powder is a growing trend in

> cosmetics. As more and more women learn about its uses and

benefits,

> expect your clients to look for it in your salon.