Guest guest Posted June 6, 2002 Report Share Posted June 6, 2002 Thanks for the article Patty! I love the mineral makeups but thought the mica made my skin itch. Then I found one without mica and it still itches after 3 days of consecutive usage. Now I think it's the Bismuth Oxy. Maybe ColorLab makes one without either ingredient. Worth looking into! > Here is an unbiased (I think) article on mineral makeups. I found > it interesting that Bismuth Oxychloride can cause allergic reactions > on the skin. This my have been why they made my skin react with > itching and hives. -Patty > > http://colorlabcosmetics.com/article01.htm > > Mineral > Powder > a trend in makeup > > by Mari Roseman > > Mineral Powders have taken the cosmetics industry by storm. Mineral > powders are beneficial for the skin, look natural, and can be used as > virtually any cosmeticó translucent powders, powder foundations, > eyeshadows, blushers, concealers, eyeliners, brow powders, and > bronzers. Dermatologists and plastic surgeons recommend mineral > powder cosmetics for their patients for post-procedure and post- > surgery wear because they are so gentle on the skin. Women love > mineral powders for their many outstanding qualities and functions, > most importantly, how beautiful it makes them look! > > Mineral Powder is basically foundation without the liquid > ingredients. At its purest it is simply crushed minerals (rocks) > without any preservatives. There are many mineral powder lines > available, which include: Colorescience, Colorlab Cosmetics, Demaur, > Jane Iredale, La Bella Donna, Mineral Essentials and Youngblood. With > the proliferation of mineral powder lines from which to choose, when > purchasing a mineral powder line, it is important to identify its > distinguishing factors. The differences between mineral powders may > be few, but depending on the needs of your business and clientele, > they may be critical. > > One factor that has reenergized the mineral powder sector is custom > blending. No longer do clients need to purchase a variety of products > to achieve the perfect shade, now they can have products custom > blended for shades that perfectly suit their needs. Colorlab > Cosmetics is the only company that does not sell finished > productsóthey sell custom blend mineral powder systems which allows > makeup artists to create shades with or without shimmer and adjust > the coverage to create anything from a translucent powder to a full > coverage foundation. > > What are they made of? > Many mineral powder lines have similar ingredients, but the presence > or absence of a single ingredient in the mix can make a difference in > the quality of the powder and its appearance. Additionally, the > milling process of the minerals can also make a huge difference in > the ease of application and final appearance of the minerals on the > skin. For example, titanium dioxide, a critical ingredient in mineral > powders, can be micronized (milled into a fine powder) which makes > the mineral powder easier to apply and provides a more natural look. > > > Following are mineral powder ingredients and their functions. Most of > the ingredients listed are commonly found in loose mineral powders, > while a few are less common. Pressed mineral powders will contain > additional ingredients that are used to bind the powder. This list is > not all-inclusive. > > Titanium Dioxide: Derived from Titanium. It has the most tinting > power of white pigments. Also recognized as one of the most effective > ingredients for sun protection. Contained in all mineral powders in > either regular or micronized form. > > Micronized Titanium Dioxide (finely milled Titanium Dioxide): > Provides the same benefits of Titanium Dioxide but makes mineral > powder finer and easier to apply. Contained in all mineral powders in > either regular or micronized form. > > Zinc Oxide: Provides opacity. It is also believed to aid in healing > skin disorders. Zinc oxide also provides sun protection Contained in > most mineral powders. > > Mica: Provides texture and light diffusion (luminescence) and slip. > Many mineral powders contain Mica or Bismuth Oxychloride for > luminescence. > > Bismuth Oxychloride: Provides luminescence and is sometimes referred > to as " synthetic pearl " . May cause allergic reactions to skin. Many > mineral powders contain Mica or Bismuth Oxychloride for luminescence. > > Sericite: A derivative of silica that provides silky texture and > light diffusing qualities. The addition of sericite changes the > molecular weight of the powder, allowing it to lay lightly on the > skin. Contained in few mineral powders. > > Kaolin:French Clay helps absorb oil. Contained in few mineral powders. > > > > To shimmer or not > Another aspect to consider when purchasing a mineral powder line is > shimmer. Do your clients want shimmer? Many salons and women enjoy > Jane Iredale for its complete mineral powder line of finished loose > and pressed shimmery powders. Still other salons and clients enjoy > Colorlab Cosmeticsí line of loose custom blend mineral powders which > allows makeup artists to create and sell their own shades with or > without shimmer. > > What is the texture and consistency of the mineral powder? Some feel > thick and grab the skin and drag when applied; others feel like silk, > almost creamy. It is important to find the right texture and > consistency. In order to ensure that your clients are successful with > mineral powders, make sure that they are easy to applyóthat they > glide easily on the skin. > > If you are new to mineral powders and are choosing between a few > lines, be sure to ask for samples so that you can touch and feel the > product and compare. With a little background information and the > product in hand you should be able to make an informed decision. > > A protective sun shade > Sun protection is a natural gift of mineral powders. Most companies > claim SPF factors of around 20. Micronized titanium dioxide reflects > ultraviolet rays from the skin while micronized zinc oxide absorbs > light, shielding the skin from the suns harmful rays. Iron oxide in > combination with zinc oxide enhances the effectiveness of zinc > oxideís sun protection abilities, boosting the SPF factor even > higher. Plastic surgeons and dermatologists prefer mineral powder sun > protection because there are no chemicals that irritate the skin. > Mineral powders give essential protection without the risk of an > adverse reaction. Additionally, mineral powders are extremely water > resistant making them an ideal product for humid climates and active > lifestyles. > > Mineral powder users > Bohms, esthetician at Visage Spa in Troy, Michigan, custom > blends mineral powder for her clients. " We get a lot of business > referrals from a number of plastic surgeons and dermatologists so I > knew I would need a talc-free, non-irritating mineral powder for > these clients. In order to match skin tones and cover up > discoloration, I chose a custom blend mineral powder that allows me > to create just the right shade. " According to Bohms, mineral powder > is a great product for post plastic surgery patients beyond the > initial recovery. " Plastic surgeons recommend that for best results, > face lift patients should stay out of the sun for one year after > surgery. Mineral powder is a great product for these patients. Not > only does it provide extra sun protection, it is a great light- weight > product for the summer. It adheres nicely to the skin while allowing > your skin to breathe. I can even create bronzers for my clients so > they can have a beautiful, safe, sun-touched look " > > As far as cosmetics are concerned, mineral powders are the most > versatile product on the market these days. They can be worn as a > translucent powder or even as a foundation powder. Manna, > makeup artist and owner of Belleci Cosmetics & Skin Care in Danville, > California says a lot of her clients are looking for a very natural > look. " Here in Danville my clients are very minimalistóthey want > their makeup to look very natural. Many will not wear liquid > foundation, but love mineral powders. They can wear them as > foundation or sheerer as a translucent powder. It evens out their > skin tone and gives them a ëno makeup lookí. My clients love it. " It > is so easy to touch up with mineral powder. Most women donít carry a > bottle of foundation with them for touch ups, but mineral powder is > light and great for quick touch-ups. Mineral powders are most often > applied dry, but can also be applied wet, which sets the powder and > provides greater coverage. > > A versatile product > As eye makeup, mineral powders can be used as eyeshadows as well as > eyeliners. Because mineral powders adhere so well to the skin, once > they are on the lid, they stay on and are virtually crease free. It > is best to use an angled brush to apply dry eyeshadow to prevent it > from flaking off and then blend it with a larger fluff brush. Applied > wet, mineral powders can create a dramatic, well defined eyeshadow. > With water or an eyeliner sealer they can be applied as eyeliners, > which can create a dramatic or subtle look depending on the mineral > powder shade and thickness of the line. Manna has clients who had > been unable to wear colored eyeshadows, due to the irritants, until > mineral powders, " I have clients who can now wear purple mineral > powder eyeshadows. They are ecstatic! " > > Earth toned mineral powders can be used in place of an eyebrow > pencil. Mineral powder can fill in eyebrows nicely giving eyebrows a > filled in look without making them look severe. An angle brow brush > works nicely. The same mineral powder could also serve as an eyeliner > or shadow. > > Minerals look great as blushers and bronzers. Dye-free minerals wonít > cause breakouts caused by red dyes commonly found in blushers. > Depending on the shade, blushers and bronzers can double as > eyeshadows. Those who wish to travel light can carry one mineral > powder to use as blush, eyeshadow and lip color, and another as a > foundation or translucent powder. A dip in your mineral powder blush > with a clear lip balm makes a great lipstick on the goójust be sure > not to contaminate your mineral powder with the lip balm oils. > > Dispel the myths > For those who retail mineral powders, old notions of what powder is > (or can be), must be dispelled. Most women are used to talc based > pressed powders which can cause irritation and can also turn gray on > the skin when the powder mixes with the skinís sebum. Many older > women have shied away from powder since it can accentuate wrinkles. > Mineral powders can be very forgiving. " I have a lot of clients in > the 40-50 age range, " comments Manna, " and they love my mineral > powder. I use a light diffusing mineral powder that stays on the > surface of the skin and makes them look younger. It gives my clients > a luminous look without the shimmer which can accentuate wrinkles. " > > A mineral powder that contains mica or bismuth oxychloride is an > option for those who are looking for a dewy look. However, donít > confuse shimmer or luminescence with light diffusion. Mica and > bismuth oxychloride reflects light in an obvious way--it adds a > glimmering sheen. Light diffusing products create a matte finish, > gloss reduction and the appearance of smoother skin. Light diffusing > products increase the amount of light that is reflected from inside > the wrinkle making the skin appear smoother. > > Presenting it to clients > Doni Rayford, Makeup Artist for Bella Via in Toledo, Ohio finds that > many of his clients have little or no previous knowledge of mineral > powders. " I get a lot of post medical procedure patients who require > non-irritating makeup in addition to a lot of non-medical clients who > are just looking for quality cosmetics and service. My clients are > shocked when they find out about mineral powders and compare them to > brands they know and have used. I have my clients bring their > products in so I can show them and discuss the differences between > their products and mineral powders. They are quite taken with mineral > powders once we make this comparison. " > > For Manna, education is key to selling mineral powders. " The first > thing I do is have my clients rub the mineral powder between their > fingers. When they feel how creamy and silky it is and how it glides > on to the back of their hand, they are amazed. And then I tell them > about the sun protection and the flawless finish. At that point, they > try it and then they buy it. Once I educate my clients, the mineral > powder basically sells itself. " > > Smooth it on > Applying mineral powders is easy with the right powder and tools. > Most makeup artists prefer to apply mineral powder with brushes > although sponges work well too; much depends on the type and coverage > of the powder, the type of sponge or brush, the look the client is > trying to achieve and personal preference. To choose the best shade > of translucent or foundation powder, put a thin stripe of the powder > on the jawbone with an eyeshadow brush. It is important to stripe > rather than blend to get a good sense of how well the shade works > with the clientís skin. Let it sit on the skin for a few minutesómost > minerals powders will darken slightly when they mix with the sebum of > the skin. First look at the depth of color and then look at the > colors. Next, choose or custom blend the mineral powders to match the > clientís skin tone. > > To ensure that your clients are successful with mineral powders, as > with any cosmetic product, it is important to make sure they are > comfortable applying their powder. Rayford applies translucent and > foundation powders with a brush using downward strokes to create that > flawless finish. " I always show my clients what I am doing and have > them do it themselves in front of me so we can work through any > difficulties they may have. In addition to making sure their > technique is good, I make sure their skin care routine is > appropriate. If their skin is oily, or if there is unabsorbed > moisturizer on their skin, the mineral powder will not go on evenly. " > As with any cosmetics, creating a look may require some practice. > Mineral powders are easy to work with and can be mastered easily. > > A growing trend > Women are increasingly looking for multifunctional cosmetics. Mineral > powders protect the skin from the sunís harmful rays, can be used on > the entire face, can be worn any time of the year in any weather and > look great! The overwhelming response from makeup artists and makeup > wearers indicates that mineral powder is a growing trend in > cosmetics. As more and more women learn about its uses and benefits, > expect your clients to look for it in your salon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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