Mineral Makeup Article - Bismuth Oxychloride

[Guest guest]

Here is an unbiased (I think) article on mineral makeups. I found

it interesting that Bismuth Oxychloride can cause allergic reactions

on the skin. This my have been why they made my skin react with

itching and hives. -Patty

http://colorlabcosmetics.com/article01.htm

Mineral

Powder

a trend in makeup

by Mari Roseman

Mineral Powders have taken the cosmetics industry by storm. Mineral

powders are beneficial for the skin, look natural, and can be used as

virtually any cosmeticó translucent powders, powder foundations,

eyeshadows, blushers, concealers, eyeliners, brow powders, and

bronzers. Dermatologists and plastic surgeons recommend mineral

powder cosmetics for their patients for post-procedure and post-

surgery wear because they are so gentle on the skin. Women love

mineral powders for their many outstanding qualities and functions,

most importantly, how beautiful it makes them look!

Mineral Powder is basically foundation without the liquid

ingredients. At its purest it is simply crushed minerals (rocks)

without any preservatives. There are many mineral powder lines

available, which include: Colorescience, Colorlab Cosmetics, Demaur,

Jane Iredale, La Bella Donna, Mineral Essentials and Youngblood. With

the proliferation of mineral powder lines from which to choose, when

purchasing a mineral powder line, it is important to identify its

distinguishing factors. The differences between mineral powders may

be few, but depending on the needs of your business and clientele,

they may be critical.

One factor that has reenergized the mineral powder sector is custom

blending. No longer do clients need to purchase a variety of products

to achieve the perfect shade, now they can have products custom

blended for shades that perfectly suit their needs. Colorlab

Cosmetics is the only company that does not sell finished

productsóthey sell custom blend mineral powder systems which allows

makeup artists to create shades with or without shimmer and adjust

the coverage to create anything from a translucent powder to a full

coverage foundation.

What are they made of?

Many mineral powder lines have similar ingredients, but the presence

or absence of a single ingredient in the mix can make a difference in

the quality of the powder and its appearance. Additionally, the

milling process of the minerals can also make a huge difference in

the ease of application and final appearance of the minerals on the

skin. For example, titanium dioxide, a critical ingredient in mineral

powders, can be micronized (milled into a fine powder) which makes

the mineral powder easier to apply and provides a more natural look.

Following are mineral powder ingredients and their functions. Most of

the ingredients listed are commonly found in loose mineral powders,

while a few are less common. Pressed mineral powders will contain

additional ingredients that are used to bind the powder. This list is

not all-inclusive.

Titanium Dioxide: Derived from Titanium. It has the most tinting

power of white pigments. Also recognized as one of the most effective

ingredients for sun protection. Contained in all mineral powders in

either regular or micronized form.

Micronized Titanium Dioxide (finely milled Titanium Dioxide):

Provides the same benefits of Titanium Dioxide but makes mineral

powder finer and easier to apply. Contained in all mineral powders in

either regular or micronized form.

Zinc Oxide: Provides opacity. It is also believed to aid in healing

skin disorders. Zinc oxide also provides sun protection Contained in

most mineral powders.

Mica: Provides texture and light diffusion (luminescence) and slip.

Many mineral powders contain Mica or Bismuth Oxychloride for

luminescence.

Bismuth Oxychloride: Provides luminescence and is sometimes referred

to as " synthetic pearl " . May cause allergic reactions to skin. Many

mineral powders contain Mica or Bismuth Oxychloride for luminescence.

Sericite: A derivative of silica that provides silky texture and

light diffusing qualities. The addition of sericite changes the

molecular weight of the powder, allowing it to lay lightly on the

skin. Contained in few mineral powders.

Kaolin:French Clay helps absorb oil. Contained in few mineral powders.

To shimmer or not

Another aspect to consider when purchasing a mineral powder line is

shimmer. Do your clients want shimmer? Many salons and women enjoy

Jane Iredale for its complete mineral powder line of finished loose

and pressed shimmery powders. Still other salons and clients enjoy

Colorlab Cosmeticsí line of loose custom blend mineral powders which

allows makeup artists to create and sell their own shades with or

without shimmer.

What is the texture and consistency of the mineral powder? Some feel

thick and grab the skin and drag when applied; others feel like silk,

almost creamy. It is important to find the right texture and

consistency. In order to ensure that your clients are successful with

mineral powders, make sure that they are easy to applyóthat they

glide easily on the skin.

If you are new to mineral powders and are choosing between a few

lines, be sure to ask for samples so that you can touch and feel the

product and compare. With a little background information and the

product in hand you should be able to make an informed decision.

A protective sun shade

Sun protection is a natural gift of mineral powders. Most companies

claim SPF factors of around 20. Micronized titanium dioxide reflects

ultraviolet rays from the skin while micronized zinc oxide absorbs

light, shielding the skin from the suns harmful rays. Iron oxide in

combination with zinc oxide enhances the effectiveness of zinc

oxideís sun protection abilities, boosting the SPF factor even

higher. Plastic surgeons and dermatologists prefer mineral powder sun

protection because there are no chemicals that irritate the skin.

Mineral powders give essential protection without the risk of an

adverse reaction. Additionally, mineral powders are extremely water

resistant making them an ideal product for humid climates and active

lifestyles.

Mineral powder users

Bohms, esthetician at Visage Spa in Troy, Michigan, custom

blends mineral powder for her clients. " We get a lot of business

referrals from a number of plastic surgeons and dermatologists so I

knew I would need a talc-free, non-irritating mineral powder for

these clients. In order to match skin tones and cover up

discoloration, I chose a custom blend mineral powder that allows me

to create just the right shade. " According to Bohms, mineral powder

is a great product for post plastic surgery patients beyond the

initial recovery. " Plastic surgeons recommend that for best results,

face lift patients should stay out of the sun for one year after

surgery. Mineral powder is a great product for these patients. Not

only does it provide extra sun protection, it is a great light-weight

product for the summer. It adheres nicely to the skin while allowing

your skin to breathe. I can even create bronzers for my clients so

they can have a beautiful, safe, sun-touched look "

As far as cosmetics are concerned, mineral powders are the most

versatile product on the market these days. They can be worn as a

translucent powder or even as a foundation powder. Manna,

makeup artist and owner of Belleci Cosmetics & Skin Care in Danville,

California says a lot of her clients are looking for a very natural

look. " Here in Danville my clients are very minimalistóthey want

their makeup to look very natural. Many will not wear liquid

foundation, but love mineral powders. They can wear them as

foundation or sheerer as a translucent powder. It evens out their

skin tone and gives them a ëno makeup lookí. My clients love it. " It

is so easy to touch up with mineral powder. Most women donít carry a

bottle of foundation with them for touch ups, but mineral powder is

light and great for quick touch-ups. Mineral powders are most often

applied dry, but can also be applied wet, which sets the powder and

provides greater coverage.

A versatile product

As eye makeup, mineral powders can be used as eyeshadows as well as

eyeliners. Because mineral powders adhere so well to the skin, once

they are on the lid, they stay on and are virtually crease free. It

is best to use an angled brush to apply dry eyeshadow to prevent it

from flaking off and then blend it with a larger fluff brush. Applied

wet, mineral powders can create a dramatic, well defined eyeshadow.

With water or an eyeliner sealer they can be applied as eyeliners,

which can create a dramatic or subtle look depending on the mineral

powder shade and thickness of the line. Manna has clients who had

been unable to wear colored eyeshadows, due to the irritants, until

mineral powders, " I have clients who can now wear purple mineral

powder eyeshadows. They are ecstatic! "

Earth toned mineral powders can be used in place of an eyebrow

pencil. Mineral powder can fill in eyebrows nicely giving eyebrows a

filled in look without making them look severe. An angle brow brush

works nicely. The same mineral powder could also serve as an eyeliner

or shadow.

Minerals look great as blushers and bronzers. Dye-free minerals wonít

cause breakouts caused by red dyes commonly found in blushers.

Depending on the shade, blushers and bronzers can double as

eyeshadows. Those who wish to travel light can carry one mineral

powder to use as blush, eyeshadow and lip color, and another as a

foundation or translucent powder. A dip in your mineral powder blush

with a clear lip balm makes a great lipstick on the goójust be sure

not to contaminate your mineral powder with the lip balm oils.

Dispel the myths

For those who retail mineral powders, old notions of what powder is

(or can be), must be dispelled. Most women are used to talc based

pressed powders which can cause irritation and can also turn gray on

the skin when the powder mixes with the skinís sebum. Many older

women have shied away from powder since it can accentuate wrinkles.

Mineral powders can be very forgiving. " I have a lot of clients in

the 40-50 age range, " comments Manna, " and they love my mineral

powder. I use a light diffusing mineral powder that stays on the

surface of the skin and makes them look younger. It gives my clients

a luminous look without the shimmer which can accentuate wrinkles. "

A mineral powder that contains mica or bismuth oxychloride is an

option for those who are looking for a dewy look. However, donít

confuse shimmer or luminescence with light diffusion. Mica and

bismuth oxychloride reflects light in an obvious way--it adds a

glimmering sheen. Light diffusing products create a matte finish,

gloss reduction and the appearance of smoother skin. Light diffusing

products increase the amount of light that is reflected from inside

the wrinkle making the skin appear smoother.

Presenting it to clients

Doni Rayford, Makeup Artist for Bella Via in Toledo, Ohio finds that

many of his clients have little or no previous knowledge of mineral

powders. " I get a lot of post medical procedure patients who require

non-irritating makeup in addition to a lot of non-medical clients who

are just looking for quality cosmetics and service. My clients are

shocked when they find out about mineral powders and compare them to

brands they know and have used. I have my clients bring their

products in so I can show them and discuss the differences between

their products and mineral powders. They are quite taken with mineral

powders once we make this comparison. "

For Manna, education is key to selling mineral powders. " The first

thing I do is have my clients rub the mineral powder between their

fingers. When they feel how creamy and silky it is and how it glides

on to the back of their hand, they are amazed. And then I tell them

about the sun protection and the flawless finish. At that point, they

try it and then they buy it. Once I educate my clients, the mineral

powder basically sells itself. "

Smooth it on

Applying mineral powders is easy with the right powder and tools.

Most makeup artists prefer to apply mineral powder with brushes

although sponges work well too; much depends on the type and coverage

of the powder, the type of sponge or brush, the look the client is

trying to achieve and personal preference. To choose the best shade

of translucent or foundation powder, put a thin stripe of the powder

on the jawbone with an eyeshadow brush. It is important to stripe

rather than blend to get a good sense of how well the shade works

with the clientís skin. Let it sit on the skin for a few minutesómost

minerals powders will darken slightly when they mix with the sebum of

the skin. First look at the depth of color and then look at the

colors. Next, choose or custom blend the mineral powders to match the

clientís skin tone.

To ensure that your clients are successful with mineral powders, as

with any cosmetic product, it is important to make sure they are

comfortable applying their powder. Rayford applies translucent and

foundation powders with a brush using downward strokes to create that

flawless finish. " I always show my clients what I am doing and have

them do it themselves in front of me so we can work through any

difficulties they may have. In addition to making sure their

technique is good, I make sure their skin care routine is

appropriate. If their skin is oily, or if there is unabsorbed

moisturizer on their skin, the mineral powder will not go on evenly. "

As with any cosmetics, creating a look may require some practice.

Mineral powders are easy to work with and can be mastered easily.

A growing trend

Women are increasingly looking for multifunctional cosmetics. Mineral

powders protect the skin from the sunís harmful rays, can be used on

the entire face, can be worn any time of the year in any weather and

look great! The overwhelming response from makeup artists and makeup

wearers indicates that mineral powder is a growing trend in

cosmetics. As more and more women learn about its uses and benefits,

expect your clients to look for it in your salon.