Cosmetic/Skincare Breakouts

[Guest guest]

Hi,

Here's a Q&A from Dermatology Times that discusses why some cosmetics

and skincare products may cause breakouts.

Take care,

Matija

May 15, 2002

By: Zoe Draelos, M.D.

Dermatology Times

Q. Why do some cosmetics and skincare products cause breakouts?

A. It is important to determine exactly what the patient means when

they present with the complaint of " breakouts. " Most reputable

cosmetic companies test their cosmetics and skincare products and can

substantiate the claims of noncomedogenic and nonacnegenic. These

claims simply mean that the product does not cause comedones or acne,

however, other acneiform eruptions of the face are possible following

cosmetic or skincare product use. In my experience, the most common

cause of a " breakout " following 48 hours of product use is a

perifollicular irritant contact dermatitis. This time frame is too

short for the development of true acne, but certainly within the time

frame for irritant contact dermatitis. This finding may be covered

under the claim of hypoallergenic, meaning reduced allergy, but it is

still possible for patients with sensitive skin to develop problems.

Women who develop breakouts with many topical products may be

developing irritation from the emulsifier, which emulsifies the oil

and water components of the formulation into a single phase. However,

the emulsifier can also emulsify sebum, which is in highest

concentration at the follicular ostia. The follicular ostium is

generally the anatomic site of the acneiform lesion. There is

tremendous variability in patients who present with frequent

acneiform eruptions following cosmetic use, but a general rule of

thumb is to recommend the use of powder over liquid cosmetics, thus

avoiding the emulsifier. For example, a powder blush can be used over

a liquid blush, a facial powder over a liquid foundation, or a powder

eye shadow over a cream eye shadow.

Remember that the skincare products and cosmetics most likely to

cause problems are those that are applied directly to the skin and

remain on the skin for the longest period of time. This means that

sunscreens, moisturizers, cosmeceuticals, and facial foundations are

the most likely culprits. A process of elimination can be used to

determine which product is causing difficulty. This is accomplished

by using each skin care product or cosmetic alone on the face for

five days to determine if the symptoms can be recreated. It is

generally not worthwhile to patch test these cosmetics or skin care

products on the back, since facial skin is a unique milieu that is

not accurately reproduced on the back.