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Greetings fellow RnY'ers...

One of the more noticeable issues post " roux n' y " is the obvious issue that

needs to be discussed. Odors from the bathroom, powderoom, half bath, hotel

bath, outhouse, porta-potty....any of those places. If like me, I'm very

uncomfortable just having to use the facility most anywhere...and that

includes areas in my own home. As a designer and builder, there's options

for each of us to consider during the process of construction, remodeling or

even trying to find a way to avoid the obvious nuisance to others.

I heard Vitalady discussing the issue with Sue Rudnicki once. Comments

about buzzards falling off of a manure wagon, or the Board of Health tacking

notices of condemnation on the doors of their residence more than once since

going post op. It shouldn't be that way...but that's the price (one of the

prices) for the procedure....most correctly, undigested matters and oils

that are a variety of aromatic strength.

There are new construction tricks to be considered if any of you are in the

process. The privacy area of the water closet...normally a room that is at

the minimum 3 feet wide and 5 feet long...just enough for you and the

toilet; possibly to accomodate the swing of a door. With an 8 foot ceiling

height, that gives you a room of 120 cubic feet of area (15 sq.ft. x 8 ft).

In many cases, these little privacy rooms are too narrow for a window; and

the plumbing arrangement makes access to a window a bit difficult, so you

have to rely upon a venting fan by code. They make a variety of fans with a

variety of ratings of 50 cubic feet per minute (cfm) to 150 cfm. Exchanging

the air in a 120 cfm room with a 150 cfm fan is extreme....but available,

depending upon the location of this privacy area. The powder room/half bath

that would get a lot of use during visits with guests, or becomes YOUR

bathroom, the faster the exchange the better.

For existing construction, you can guage the size of your bathroom by square

area and buy accordingly. Nutone has a variety of bath fans that are rated

by the square footage of the bathroom. These units incorporate a light as

well so that remodeling the bath ceiling or exchanging one fan for another

of higher rating is relatively easy with existing electrical AND ducting

vent in place.

Ducting vents are important. Do NOT allow your contractor to just take the

vent hose from the fan into the attic and drop it there; likewise, don't let

him/her dump that vent into the soffit area of the eaves...even though the

eaves are normally vented and the attic by code should have sufficient

ventilation for the attic. The problem in colder climates is that bathroom

air vents are moving not only odors, but moisture laden air from the shower

and bath; condensation on the mirrors will give you an idea of the amount of

moisture in the bath after showering or bathing. This moisture into the

attic or the eaves leads to excessive moisture in areas that moisture needs

to be out of. The attic and eaves have wood members that least need

moisture to saturate or dampen the wood on a daily basis over a number of

years. The vent should extend into a vent flapper through the wall or

attached beneath the soffit....or through the roof.

Some vent fans can be mounted directly behind or to the side of the toilet

in a through the wall arrangement....as in the old kitchen vent type fans.

This is something to consider for a bath area that is not being remodeled

into a privacy area, but needs that extra bit of venting rather than buy

caseloads of room deodorizers. The through the wall vents that are direct

vents must be chosen with care along with a proper installation to avoid the

problems associated with a hole in the exterior of the house that might

allow cold air back into your bath...right at your back or directly at your

side.

Some folks have gone to extremes to resolve the fresh air issues in baths.

They cut into the cold air returns of their HVAC systems (heat, vent air

condtioning) from an adjacent room to suck the air out of the bath for circu

lation of the air in the bath. A)It's against the codes to do this, B) it

just removes fetid air from that area for the rest of the house to enjoy as

it's pumped into the air handler and sent throughout the structure.

Put your bath vents on a timer that happens when you turn them on so that

they'll run for 5 minutes or so after you leave and then shut down on their

own.

Next topic....the RIGHT toilet for the Roux n' Y client.

Dan

rny 10.13.98

EdWaits,MD-Atlanta

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Dan,

Are you a DISTAL RNY? Because I'm a medial RNY, 125 cm bypassed, and I adhere to

a basically low-fat diet... and while I'm not pooping roses, I do use public

facilities, toilets in my friends' houses, and the ones in my own house without

fear of doing harm to others, and often, even, without turning on the

standard-issue bathroom fan. No fears of stinking up the entire house.

Not ALL of us who have had RNY have the problems you're talking about. Granted,

you don't want to be around me on a day when I've eaten bread; the farts might

make your eyes water... but even then, the eventual " results " are not toxic.

I guess my point is, it's worth it to point out that not EVERYONE who has an RNY

will create especially offensive bathroom odors. Many of our lurkers are

researching surgery or fresh posties, and there's no point scaring them over

something that might not, ahem, come to pass. :-)

Z

Open RNY 09/17/01

Reconstructives 07/22/02

310/128/125

http://www.obesityhelp.com/morbidobesity/profile.phtml?N=M987208445 updated

today

________________________________

From: Dan

Sent: Sun 12/22/2002 8:58 PM

To: Graduate-OSSG

Subject: Bath Venting

Greetings fellow RnY'ers...

One of the more noticeable issues post " roux n' y " is the obvious issue that

needs to be discussed. Odors from the bathroom, powderoom, half bath, hotel

bath, outhouse, porta-potty....any of those places. If like me, I'm very

uncomfortable just having to use the facility most anywhere...and that

includes areas in my own home. As a designer and builder, there's options

for each of us to consider during the process of construction, remodeling or

even trying to find a way to avoid the obvious nuisance to others.

I heard Vitalady discussing the issue with Sue Rudnicki once. Comments

about buzzards falling off of a manure wagon, or the Board of Health tacking

notices of condemnation on the doors of their residence more than once since

going post op. It shouldn't be that way...but that's the price (one of the

prices) for the procedure....most correctly, undigested matters and oils

that are a variety of aromatic strength.

There are new construction tricks to be considered if any of you are in the

process. The privacy area of the water closet...normally a room that is at

the minimum 3 feet wide and 5 feet long...just enough for you and the

toilet; possibly to accomodate the swing of a door. With an 8 foot ceiling

height, that gives you a room of 120 cubic feet of area (15 sq.ft. x 8 ft).

In many cases, these little privacy rooms are too narrow for a window; and

the plumbing arrangement makes access to a window a bit difficult, so you

have to rely upon a venting fan by code. They make a variety of fans with a

variety of ratings of 50 cubic feet per minute (cfm) to 150 cfm. Exchanging

the air in a 120 cfm room with a 150 cfm fan is extreme....but available,

depending upon the location of this privacy area. The powder room/half bath

that would get a lot of use during visits with guests, or becomes YOUR

bathroom, the faster the exchange the better.

For existing construction, you can guage the size of your bathroom by square

area and buy accordingly. Nutone has a variety of bath fans that are rated

by the square footage of the bathroom. These units incorporate a light as

well so that remodeling the bath ceiling or exchanging one fan for another

of higher rating is relatively easy with existing electrical AND ducting

vent in place.

Ducting vents are important. Do NOT allow your contractor to just take the

vent hose from the fan into the attic and drop it there; likewise, don't let

him/her dump that vent into the soffit area of the eaves...even though the

eaves are normally vented and the attic by code should have sufficient

ventilation for the attic. The problem in colder climates is that bathroom

air vents are moving not only odors, but moisture laden air from the shower

and bath; condensation on the mirrors will give you an idea of the amount of

moisture in the bath after showering or bathing. This moisture into the

attic or the eaves leads to excessive moisture in areas that moisture needs

to be out of. The attic and eaves have wood members that least need

moisture to saturate or dampen the wood on a daily basis over a number of

years. The vent should extend into a vent flapper through the wall or

attached beneath the soffit....or through the roof.

Some vent fans can be mounted directly behind or to the side of the toilet

in a through the wall arrangement....as in the old kitchen vent type fans.

This is something to consider for a bath area that is not being remodeled

into a privacy area, but needs that extra bit of venting rather than buy

caseloads of room deodorizers. The through the wall vents that are direct

vents must be chosen with care along with a proper installation to avoid the

problems associated with a hole in the exterior of the house that might

allow cold air back into your bath...right at your back or directly at your

side.

Some folks have gone to extremes to resolve the fresh air issues in baths.

They cut into the cold air returns of their HVAC systems (heat, vent air

condtioning) from an adjacent room to suck the air out of the bath for circu

lation of the air in the bath. A)It's against the codes to do this, B) it

just removes fetid air from that area for the rest of the house to enjoy as

it's pumped into the air handler and sent throughout the structure.

Put your bath vents on a timer that happens when you turn them on so that

they'll run for 5 minutes or so after you leave and then shut down on their

own.

Next topic....the RIGHT toilet for the Roux n' Y client.

Dan

rny 10.13.98

EdWaits,MD-Atlanta

Homepage: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Graduate-OSSG

Unsubscribe: mailto:Graduate-OSSG-unsubscribe

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Apparently, you do not have a Sweet Seat.

One of our local distals was going nuts with this. She has someone in her

family with an old JIB, too. Soooooooo, she & her husband have built a few

different models. 'The one they built for us installs under the seat back.

IT vents down thru the floor, and out thru one of the vents in the

foundation. The biggest danger would be to someone out mowing the lawn.

You'll note there is no flower bed in that area. LOL!

Yes, I DID try to get her to make more & market them, but nope, they wont'

do it. Of course, they both work for Boeing, so maybe........

Thanks,

Vitalady T

www.vitalady.com

If you are interested in PayPal, please click here:

https://secure.paypal.com/affil/pal=vitalady%40bigfoot.com

Bath Venting

>

> Greetings fellow RnY'ers...

>

> One of the more noticeable issues post " roux n' y " is the obvious issue

that

> needs to be discussed. Odors from the bathroom, powderoom, half bath,

hotel

> bath, outhouse, porta-potty....any of those places. If like me, I'm very

> uncomfortable just having to use the facility most anywhere...and that

> includes areas in my own home. As a designer and builder, there's options

> for each of us to consider during the process of construction, remodeling

or

> even trying to find a way to avoid the obvious nuisance to others.

>

> I heard Vitalady discussing the issue with Sue Rudnicki once. Comments

> about buzzards falling off of a manure wagon, or the Board of Health

tacking

> notices of condemnation on the doors of their residence more than once

since

> going post op. It shouldn't be that way...but that's the price (one of

the

> prices) for the procedure....most correctly, undigested matters and oils

> that are a variety of aromatic strength.

>

> There are new construction tricks to be considered if any of you are in

the

> process. The privacy area of the water closet...normally a room that is

at

> the minimum 3 feet wide and 5 feet long...just enough for you and the

> toilet; possibly to accomodate the swing of a door. With an 8 foot

ceiling

> height, that gives you a room of 120 cubic feet of area (15 sq.ft. x 8

ft).

> In many cases, these little privacy rooms are too narrow for a window; and

> the plumbing arrangement makes access to a window a bit difficult, so you

> have to rely upon a venting fan by code. They make a variety of fans with

a

> variety of ratings of 50 cubic feet per minute (cfm) to 150 cfm.

Exchanging

> the air in a 120 cfm room with a 150 cfm fan is extreme....but available,

> depending upon the location of this privacy area. The powder room/half

bath

> that would get a lot of use during visits with guests, or becomes YOUR

> bathroom, the faster the exchange the better.

>

> For existing construction, you can guage the size of your bathroom by

square

> area and buy accordingly. Nutone has a variety of bath fans that are

rated

> by the square footage of the bathroom. These units incorporate a light as

> well so that remodeling the bath ceiling or exchanging one fan for another

> of higher rating is relatively easy with existing electrical AND ducting

> vent in place.

>

> Ducting vents are important. Do NOT allow your contractor to just take

the

> vent hose from the fan into the attic and drop it there; likewise, don't

let

> him/her dump that vent into the soffit area of the eaves...even though the

> eaves are normally vented and the attic by code should have sufficient

> ventilation for the attic. The problem in colder climates is that

bathroom

> air vents are moving not only odors, but moisture laden air from the

shower

> and bath; condensation on the mirrors will give you an idea of the amount

of

> moisture in the bath after showering or bathing. This moisture into the

> attic or the eaves leads to excessive moisture in areas that moisture

needs

> to be out of. The attic and eaves have wood members that least need

> moisture to saturate or dampen the wood on a daily basis over a number of

> years. The vent should extend into a vent flapper through the wall or

> attached beneath the soffit....or through the roof.

>

> Some vent fans can be mounted directly behind or to the side of the toilet

> in a through the wall arrangement....as in the old kitchen vent type fans.

> This is something to consider for a bath area that is not being remodeled

> into a privacy area, but needs that extra bit of venting rather than buy

> caseloads of room deodorizers. The through the wall vents that are direct

> vents must be chosen with care along with a proper installation to avoid

the

> problems associated with a hole in the exterior of the house that might

> allow cold air back into your bath...right at your back or directly at

your

> side.

>

>

> Some folks have gone to extremes to resolve the fresh air issues in baths.

> They cut into the cold air returns of their HVAC systems (heat, vent air

> condtioning) from an adjacent room to suck the air out of the bath for

circu

> lation of the air in the bath. A)It's against the codes to do this, B) it

> just removes fetid air from that area for the rest of the house to enjoy

as

> it's pumped into the air handler and sent throughout the structure.

>

> Put your bath vents on a timer that happens when you turn them on so that

> they'll run for 5 minutes or so after you leave and then shut down on

their

> own.

>

> Next topic....the RIGHT toilet for the Roux n' Y client.

>

> Dan

> rny 10.13.98

> EdWaits,MD-Atlanta

>

>

>

> Homepage: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Graduate-OSSG

>

> Unsubscribe: mailto:Graduate-OSSG-unsubscribe

>

>

>

>

>

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Great post Dan. But I have to admit I now have this hysterical image of you

sitting on the toilet with sketch pads and calculators keeping yourself busy

during those long BM sessions!!

We have two distal bypass folks in our house, which we rent, so construction

is not really an option. What works well for us: We put in a dual fan, the

kind that mounts in the window. It has a reverse control to pull the air out

of a room. We have always used scented candles in the bathroom, but if we

turn the fan on, light the candle, the room is pretty well cleared in a

matter of minutes. If we leave the door open, it also makes sure no odor is

seeping into the bedroom. (and as an added bonus, in the summertime it helps

keep the bedroom cooler).

Kate

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Bath VentingHi ...

I've never asked my MD whether he took the long road or the first loop in my

surgery. I've derived my opinion from being 3 years post op, not only as

personal example but by comments and concensus from many support meetings

here in Atlanta as well as commentary found on the groups. I'm certain

there are always exceptions to the rule for everything...but as someone in

the business to make changes to habitats for lifestyle, medical, mobility,

personal appointment, artisitic license into architectural components...I

offer options based on personal experience and concensus in weight to

products that are available that meet these criteria.

One of the big things with what I attempt to do as a designer & builder is

to accentuate the comfort levels. My first opinion of my sanitary habits is

that I'd rather not be someone always remembered by nieces and nephews for

that " Uncle Dan smell! " as I get older. One issue that I notice with some

folks will always be that what becomes acceptable to them... is simply

tolerated by others. The lifestyle and plumbing change made habituation of

our bowel changes something to deal with and accept...and after a while,

simply acceptable to us...but not always to others. ESPECIALLY after eating

bread.

I'm suggesting in bath venting options the items to consider that if simply

swapping out is the occasion, will not cost much more...but provide better

and optimal service. Yet, if one of our thousands is in the process of

remodeling or building new...there are some considerations that many folks

rarely think about. It's a lot cheaper to do it on paper before getting

started and see how it works rather than go back in to make physical

modifcations after the fact.

My suggestions for privacy rooms and higher rated vent fans are in keeping

with good design practice for new work; and suggestions for existing fan

replacments to higher capacity fans are just that...suggestions based upon

personal and practical experience.

Dan

Builders, Inc.

" The Family of Builders...building Gracious Southern Living Since

1954 "

rny 10.13.98

EdWaits,MD-Atlanta

Bath Venting

Greetings fellow RnY'ers...

One of the more noticeable issues post " roux n' y " is the obvious issue that

needs to be discussed. Odors from the bathroom, powderoom, half bath, hotel

bath, outhouse, porta-potty....any of those places. If like me, I'm very

uncomfortable just having to use the facility most anywhere...and that

includes areas in my own home. As a designer and builder, there's options

for each of us to consider during the process of construction, remodeling or

even trying to find a way to avoid the obvious nuisance to others.

I heard Vitalady discussing the issue with Sue Rudnicki once. Comments

about buzzards falling off of a manure wagon, or the Board of Health tacking

notices of condemnation on the doors of their residence more than once since

going post op. It shouldn't be that way...but that's the price (one of the

prices) for the procedure....most correctly, undigested matters and oils

that are a variety of aromatic strength.

There are new construction tricks to be considered if any of you are in the

process. The privacy area of the water closet...normally a room that is at

the minimum 3 feet wide and 5 feet long...just enough for you and the

toilet; possibly to accomodate the swing of a door. With an 8 foot ceiling

height, that gives you a room of 120 cubic feet of area (15 sq.ft. x 8 ft).

In many cases, these little privacy rooms are too narrow for a window; and

the plumbing arrangement makes access to a window a bit difficult, so you

have to rely upon a venting fan by code. They make a variety of fans with a

variety of ratings of 50 cubic feet per minute (cfm) to 150 cfm. Exchanging

the air in a 120 cfm room with a 150 cfm fan is extreme....but available,

depending upon the location of this privacy area. The powder room/half bath

that would get a lot of use during visits with guests, or becomes YOUR

bathroom, the faster the exchange the better.

For existing construction, you can guage the size of your bathroom by square

area and buy accordingly. Nutone has a variety of bath fans that are rated

by the square footage of the bathroom. These units incorporate a light as

well so that remodeling the bath ceiling or exchanging one fan for another

of higher rating is relatively easy with existing electrical AND ducting

vent in place.

Ducting vents are important. Do NOT allow your contractor to just take the

vent hose from the fan into the attic and drop it there; likewise, don't let

him/her dump that vent into the soffit area of the eaves...even though the

eaves are normally vented and the attic by code should have sufficient

ventilation for the attic. The problem in colder climates is that bathroom

air vents are moving not only odors, but moisture laden air from the shower

and bath; condensation on the mirrors will give you an idea of the amount of

moisture in the bath after showering or bathing. This moisture into the

attic or the eaves leads to excessive moisture in areas that moisture needs

to be out of. The attic and eaves have wood members that least need

moisture to saturate or dampen the wood on a daily basis over a number of

years. The vent should extend into a vent flapper through the wall or

attached beneath the soffit....or through the roof.

Some vent fans can be mounted directly behind or to the side of the toilet

in a through the wall arrangement....as in the old kitchen vent type fans.

This is something to consider for a bath area that is not being remodeled

into a privacy area, but needs that extra bit of venting rather than buy

caseloads of room deodorizers. The through the wall vents that are direct

vents must be chosen with care along with a proper installation to avoid the

problems associated with a hole in the exterior of the house that might

allow cold air back into your bath...right at your back or directly at your

side.

Some folks have gone to extremes to resolve the fresh air issues in baths.

They cut into the cold air returns of their HVAC systems (heat, vent air

condtioning) from an adjacent room to suck the air out of the bath for circu

lation of the air in the bath. A)It's against the codes to do this, B) it

just removes fetid air from that area for the rest of the house to enjoy as

it's pumped into the air handler and sent throughout the structure.

Put your bath vents on a timer that happens when you turn them on so that

they'll run for 5 minutes or so after you leave and then shut down on their

own.

Next topic....the RIGHT toilet for the Roux n' Y client.

Dan

rny 10.13.98

EdWaits,MD-Atlanta

Homepage: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Graduate-OSSG

Unsubscribe: mailto:Graduate-OSSG-unsubscribe

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Yep...the vent shouldn't be located in area in which it's too close

to a window (like a dormer window) or a flame.

The down and out vent sounds like a good idea! Locate a floor or

wall vent in proximity to the toilet and install an in-line fan on a

timer with the tail end of the vent going to the exterior would be an

ideal solution for evacuating any size room in air exchange. The

further away the tail end, the less likely that cold air will find

it's way back into the house as a direct source.

There is a consideration to stuff like that...one will be that it

could draw out warm/cold air provided by the furnace/AC air handler

if it's left on too long. Baths are sometimes included into the

scheme of things for a supply of air, but never for a discharge back

into the system as a return source. The supply duct to that bath may

have be changed out to be able to keep up with the venting loss.

Dan

> Apparently, you do not have a Sweet Seat.

>

> One of our local distals was going nuts with this. She has someone

in her

> family with an old JIB, too. Soooooooo, she & her husband have

built a few

> different models. 'The one they built for us installs under the

seat back.

> IT vents down thru the floor, and out thru one of the vents in the

> foundation. The biggest danger would be to someone out mowing the

lawn.

> You'll note there is no flower bed in that area. LOL!

>

> Yes, I DID try to get her to make more & market them, but nope,

they wont'

> do it. Of course, they both work for Boeing, so maybe........

>

>

> Thanks,

>

>

> Vitalady T

> www.vitalady.com

>

> If you are interested in PayPal, please click here:

> https://secure.paypal.com/affil/pal=vitalady%40bigfoot.com

>

> Bath Venting

>

>

> >

> > Greetings fellow RnY'ers...

> >

> > One of the more noticeable issues post " roux n' y " is the obvious

issue

> that

> > needs to be discussed. Odors from the bathroom, powderoom, half

bath,

> hotel

> > bath, outhouse, porta-potty....any of those places. If like me,

I'm very

> > uncomfortable just having to use the facility most anywhere...and

that

> > includes areas in my own home. As a designer and builder,

there's options

> > for each of us to consider during the process of construction,

remodeling

> or

> > even trying to find a way to avoid the obvious nuisance to others.

> >

> > I heard Vitalady discussing the issue with Sue Rudnicki once.

Comments

> > about buzzards falling off of a manure wagon, or the Board of

Health

> tacking

> > notices of condemnation on the doors of their residence more than

once

> since

> > going post op. It shouldn't be that way...but that's the price

(one of

> the

> > prices) for the procedure....most correctly, undigested matters

and oils

> > that are a variety of aromatic strength.

> >

> > There are new construction tricks to be considered if any of you

are in

> the

> > process. The privacy area of the water closet...normally a room

that is

> at

> > the minimum 3 feet wide and 5 feet long...just enough for you and

the

> > toilet; possibly to accomodate the swing of a door. With an 8

foot

> ceiling

> > height, that gives you a room of 120 cubic feet of area (15

sq.ft. x 8

> ft).

> > In many cases, these little privacy rooms are too narrow for a

window; and

> > the plumbing arrangement makes access to a window a bit

difficult, so you

> > have to rely upon a venting fan by code. They make a variety of

fans with

> a

> > variety of ratings of 50 cubic feet per minute (cfm) to 150 cfm.

> Exchanging

> > the air in a 120 cfm room with a 150 cfm fan is extreme....but

available,

> > depending upon the location of this privacy area. The powder

room/half

> bath

> > that would get a lot of use during visits with guests, or becomes

YOUR

> > bathroom, the faster the exchange the better.

> >

> > For existing construction, you can guage the size of your

bathroom by

> square

> > area and buy accordingly. Nutone has a variety of bath fans that

are

> rated

> > by the square footage of the bathroom. These units incorporate a

light as

> > well so that remodeling the bath ceiling or exchanging one fan

for another

> > of higher rating is relatively easy with existing electrical AND

ducting

> > vent in place.

> >

> > Ducting vents are important. Do NOT allow your contractor to

just take

> the

> > vent hose from the fan into the attic and drop it there;

likewise, don't

> let

> > him/her dump that vent into the soffit area of the eaves...even

though the

> > eaves are normally vented and the attic by code should have

sufficient

> > ventilation for the attic. The problem in colder climates is that

> bathroom

> > air vents are moving not only odors, but moisture laden air from

the

> shower

> > and bath; condensation on the mirrors will give you an idea of

the amount

> of

> > moisture in the bath after showering or bathing. This moisture

into the

> > attic or the eaves leads to excessive moisture in areas that

moisture

> needs

> > to be out of. The attic and eaves have wood members that least

need

> > moisture to saturate or dampen the wood on a daily basis over a

number of

> > years. The vent should extend into a vent flapper through the

wall or

> > attached beneath the soffit....or through the roof.

> >

> > Some vent fans can be mounted directly behind or to the side of

the toilet

> > in a through the wall arrangement....as in the old kitchen vent

type fans.

> > This is something to consider for a bath area that is not being

remodeled

> > into a privacy area, but needs that extra bit of venting rather

than buy

> > caseloads of room deodorizers. The through the wall vents that

are direct

> > vents must be chosen with care along with a proper installation

to avoid

> the

> > problems associated with a hole in the exterior of the house that

might

> > allow cold air back into your bath...right at your back or

directly at

> your

> > side.

> >

> >

> > Some folks have gone to extremes to resolve the fresh air issues

in baths.

> > They cut into the cold air returns of their HVAC systems (heat,

vent air

> > condtioning) from an adjacent room to suck the air out of the

bath for

> circu

> > lation of the air in the bath. A)It's against the codes to do

this, B) it

> > just removes fetid air from that area for the rest of the house

to enjoy

> as

> > it's pumped into the air handler and sent throughout the

structure.

> >

> > Put your bath vents on a timer that happens when you turn them on

so that

> > they'll run for 5 minutes or so after you leave and then shut

down on

> their

> > own.

> >

> > Next topic....the RIGHT toilet for the Roux n' Y client.

> >

> > Dan

> > rny 10.13.98

> > EdWaits,MD-Atlanta

> >

> >

> >

> > Homepage: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Graduate-OSSG

> >

> > Unsubscribe: mailto:Graduate-OSSG-unsubscribe

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

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Oh, goody! Then I could kill unsuspecting strangers walking down the

sidewalk! I love this idea, would make for a quieter neighborhood.

Alice

The Loon

RNY 12/28/00

.....The down and out vent sounds like a good idea! Locate a floor or

wall vent in proximity to the toilet and install an in-line fan on a

timer with the tail end of the vent going to the exterior would be an

ideal solution for evacuating any size room in air exchange.....

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In a message dated 12/23/2002 9:13:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,

dlturner@... writes:

> Next topic....the RIGHT toilet for the Roux n' Y client.

> ******************************

Dan, thank you! That's some great advice, and I really want to hear about

the next topic! :))

in NJ

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In a message dated 12/22/02 11:01:18 PM Central Standard Time,

dlturner@... writes:

<< construction tricks to be considered if any of you are in the process. >>

---------------------------

Hey, Dan!

Thanks for the informative and knowledgeable post on a " different tack " for a

change. What a breath of fresh air (no pun intended). Seriously, I mean

thanks!

Carol A

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