Clothing that reflects our times

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The Guardian (London)

December 10, 1999

Stone Island/CP Company

Ten years ago, a modest-sounding label called Sportswear Company was founded

in Ravarino, Italy. It's no exaggeration to say its two menswear lines, with

their super-functional, survivalist styles, revived the fortunes of menswear

this decade, inspiring no less than Prada Sport and a whole industry now

based on performance clothing.

How so? First, Stone Island - supported by Manchester's terrace casuals and

The Beautiful South, then by design aficionados and discerning big-name

DJs - set anthropologists yapping about brand semiotics. Stone Island's big,

buttoning-on arm-patch label was worn proudly by aspirational McYouths,

nicked from shops to be sewn on to non-Stone Island garments, then removed

by those at one with the anti-branding 90s.

Second, and more importantly, the brand, with its smart-casual brother CP

Company, quietly set the benchmarks for ergonomics and technical innovation

in clothing. The unique fabrics developed include waterproof jersey, weaved

aluminium and a carbon-based material to combat sick building syndrome.

Construction innovations have included jackets with in-built pollution masks

and a coat that turns into a kite.

Finally, the family-owned Sportswear Company has chosen London as the place

for its first dedicated shop outside of Italy. Opening next Wednesday in the

heart of Soho (46-48 Beak Street, 0171 287 7734), the impressive two-floor

shop is as functionally-designed as any Stone jacket. Expect nylon-clad

queues around the block. Josh Simms